Just bought one of these today! Excited! Now just have to wait for the transfer and registration to go through. Can't wait! I'll post some of my own pics when I get her home. CZ75 Shadowline.

What kind of pistol buffer tube did u get for the brace?
I read that some people stake the castle but cause of it rotating. Does the brace tend to move around since it slips over the tube?

heres a few of mines, havent had a chance to take a pic of all my guns yet

gen 2 glock 17 frame with gen 3 slide, with zev tech trigger kit, zev tech recoil rod and spring with extended slide stop lever
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...pscd7b6258.jpg

gen 3 glock 30- too much mods to list
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...ps098989fe.jpg

reminngton 700 sps .308
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...psc40db323.jpg

ak-74 does not look like this anymore. currently have krinkov style buttstock with wood front
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...ps0c84d746.jpg

Look close, I used 4 self taping screws to hold it still.

So I took the wife yesterday to our local gun shop to take the concealed weapons course so she could carry on her and ended up walking out with a new Gen 3 Glock 23......those evil people there, making me buy another gun! They had got about 6 of those Gen 3's in from another dealer that went out of business so they had to sell them as "used" even though they hadn't been fired, so I got it 150 off a brand new Gen 4 version. Not bad:)

My wife and I are both gun nuts. I literally have no idea how many we have.

Here are two of my newest. The 1911 is a Springfield Range Officer that has been NP3+ coated by Robar. The revolver I got for Valentine's Day. It is a Raging Judge 454 casul/410/45 colt

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3884/...27d0fb79d8.jpgragin judge 454 by DanK1, on Flickr

Also just bought a Glock 17 in Gen 4. Again I'll post up pics when I get them both home. Probably next week. Here's the only pic I have of the Glock (and it's not a Gen 4).

So I was at another gun shop today and I told the guy I was looking to possibly get a .45 in the future. He pulls out a never used and just traded in Gen 3 Glock 21. Says 500 for it, I know that's high being that its last generation and its now technically used even if the original owner never fired the gun in the year he owned it. I was like hmm, should I roll in a few weeks down the line and offer cash on it or get a 1911. I love my glocks, never had a 1911. Just wondered if I could get him at a good price and if so, whats fair on it without being rude to the owner of the shop?

I'm not even American and new to guns. But G21 All the way.lol

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk

now that you live in Florida, time to become American and buy some guns! :tup:

I don't c it:confused:

That's all already been addressed. Trust me lol

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Technically, just because it's been sold once, doesn't make it used. GunBroker calls those 'like new', but imho, if the gun has never been shot, it's new. 500 is a fair price for a .45, a good 1911 will start at 700 and go up from there. I paid $700 for a Para SST (government length 1911), $700 for a Colt Officer's Model and about $750 for my Combat Commander. I have a Kimber Ultra Carry II that was about $1900. Hope this helps.

I've seen tons and tons of ar500 videos and almost nothing penetrates it. Yesterday we were shooting at a 6x8 1/4" plate you can get off ebay for a plate carrier. We shot 8mm Mauser 196gr from a 1944 Mauser 24.5", .308 150gr from a Springfield m1a 18", every 5.56mm you can think of including green tip from 10" to 18" barrels etc. not even more than a few dings.

A guy comes along and punches right through it 5 times with a ar15 like it was nothing! I ask him what ammo he used and he just said normal 55gr FMJ!! But he says with his 24" barrel they're doing 3700fps. Was this guy telling the truth? I get more velocity is better but even a normal 55gr round at that speed I'd think ar500 would stop it. Any thoughts or calculators out there to guess his kinetic energy when a .308 m1a wouldn't even scratch it? Was he lying? Using AP rounds?

Anyone owns a tavor?
How do u guys like it if u do?
I finally got to hold one at a local gun store and I do like how it feels. It has some heaft from the back but once u shoulder it, its doesn't feel heavy. But the first thing I noticed the pencil thinned barrel. It seems its not very durable for longevity.
I wonder if the military uses a thicker barrel vs the consumer version.

A Q&D look through pics of the Tavor on the Intertubes looks like the barrel is about the same "weight" as the thinner parts of a M4 barrel for the AR-15. But I've never seen a Tavor in person and it's difficult to tell from pictures. I figure any weapon used by the Israeli military will be tough and reliable - they don't mess around.

I call BS. The longer barrel won't increase muzzle velocity, that is a function of the powder that is burned. At that speed, that bullet would come apart on impact, not penetrate. The chamber pressure required to generate that velocity would exceed SAAMI specifications and the gun isn't long for this world. My guess is steel-cored 5.56, since it defeats most armor out there. That's my :twocents:

My friend does. Can't complain. It's a 5.56 that shoots like any other in my eyes. Head shots at 100 yards. It's ugly as **** but if you can't afford or get the tax stamp on a SBR its a good option. Its a 16" barrel, so 6" longer than mine. Its 26" overall vs my 26.5". And again its legal to own. And with that 6" barrel you get more kinetic energy and better accuracy therefor more deadly. Don't you love our govt laws?! :confused:

Actually we figured it out on ar15.com. The bullets traveling fast enough and the time it takes for the bullet to hit the plate from start to finish is more powerful then the slower .308 or 8mm Mauser. Like hitting a nail with a hammer vs pushing on the nail with a rock and all your weight. You can get more power with a rock and weight but at a longer time with no penetration. At 3700fps the little 5.56 is actually going fast enough it's exceeding the breaking point of the steel. We can see this from the ar500 actually chipping at the very tip where the round entered.

And I'm not sure where you heard barrel length doesn't increase velocity but that's false. Every inch in a 5.56 is about 200fps. My 10" barrel shooting the same rounds is over 1000fps slower vs his 24".

Interesting. Since most of my 5.56 platform guns are 16", muzzle velocity doesn't matter much to me. While the 5.56 will shoot to 600 yards, I don't see much need to shoot that range with that small of round. For 600 to 1000 yards, I prefer a .308 or .30-06 (again, personal opinion/preference). While muzzle velocity will increase to a point over a 10" barrel, there is a barrel length that you get max velocity, anything over that will actually cause a decrease. So maybe I was a little out of line saying 'BS' on the m.v. claim. Unless you were shooting over a chronograph to get an accurate reading on velocity, someone saying his muzzle velocity is xxxx, I tend to be a little skeptical. That's just me. I'm more of an accuracy guy, I load to what gives me the best performance out of my gun at the range I want to use it for. For what it's worth, I just looked at Federal's website for their ammunition. It shows that a 55 grain boat tail is driven at 3240 fps. They show 3700 fps with a 40 grain Nosler Ballistic Tip.

I definitely don't want to get into a disagreement over m.v. on a 5.56, or what it does to body armor. I've been around firearms for a long time, and I tend to be skeptical when someone claims a m.v. that sounds outrageous to me. It's great that there are Z owners that enjoy firearms and shooting, so on that note, I'll say no more about 5.56 m.v. :)

I've got a few guns myself....mostly pistols.

Kimber Stainless Pro Carry II 1911 .45
Kimber Ultra TLE II 1911 .45
Springfield A1 Loaded with all kinds of custom goodies 1911 .45
Glock 19 9mm
S&W Bodyguard .380
Ruger SR9C 9mm
Sig Sauer P229 Extreme 9mm (my favorite)

I also have a old .243 breach load (cant remember the name brand)
Mossberg 500 with a pistol grip

and some others which I cant remember off of the top of my head.

I've got an assortment of rifles & pistols, (just a few):

ParaOrdnance SSP (full size government model) .45
Colt Combat Commander .45
Colt Officer's Model .45
Kimber Ultra Carry II .45
SIG P229 in .357 SIG w/.40 extra barrel
Beretta Mini-Cougar .40 (for sale or trade)
Ruger Mini-14
AR-10 D9 Firearms custom build .308
AR-15 D9 Firearms custom build in 6.8 SPC w/300 Blackout extra upper
M-14
1903A3 Springfield .30-06

and several more... :)

actually i was wrong too with the 200fps per inch. but i just saw a guy cut a 24" barrel to 16.5" at every inch. the 24" was the fastest. like Hilters V-3 cannon you do get the fastest rounds out of the longest barrel. im sure a 5.56 will eventually slow but i dont think we'd know when, when most only go to 24". i believe him since most 24" barrels like the tester guy shot, was almost 3500fps out of a reminton 700 with a normal 5.56 55gr round. the guy that shot through the ar500 had a "bull something" barrel that was chrome lined or something, adding to the speed he said. he seemed to know his stuff so id guess he did 3700fps with a chronograph at some point.

regardless of m.v., at 50 yards he punched straight through it while none of us could.


http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psa2bb440f.jpg


http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psa5226ca9.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psb5927811.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps1441d5f2.jpg

heres a good read....

He was probably not lying, nor using AP rounds. It seems counter-intuitive that a much smaller bullet would do so much more damage to the plate, but that is how it works. In fact, in the world of steel shooting, this is very common. Many ranges that have range-owned steel will not let you fire anything at it with a muzzle velocity over about 3000 fps. The smaller and faster they are, the more harmful they are to steel. Rounds like .221 Fireball, .204 Ruger, and stuff like that are the reasons for rules like this. They easily blow clean holes in AR500 even at several hundred yards. I can't find too much outside source information on WHY this is, so I'll go ahead and take a physics stab at it.

While I knew that this was the case, I never REALLY investigated why, so you asked a great question . I pondered a few different possible solutions. Impulse, power, sectional density, kinetic energy, just to name a few.

There is no question that the rifles you were shooting at the plate had a great deal more kinetic energy than his 5.56, even at 3700 fps. Kinetic energy is RELATED to my analysis, but it does not end there.

In the end, I came up with the conclusion that the power transferred to the plate is what is killing it. When I say power, I'm referring to energy per unit time, the physics power. (I say this because the word, "power," is thrown around quite a bit in the shooting community, with a very loose and often incorrect definition). Many materials have a power density limit, meaning you can only add so much energy, over so much time, before things start to break. For example, if you take a 100 W bulb and plug it in to a standard 110V fixture, you get 100W of power. Plug it in to a 440V outlet, you get 1600 W of power, but the filament will likely fail, and the bulb will burn out. Why? Because there was too much power.

If you leave a 100 W bulb on for an hour, you have expended significantly more total energy than the very short bright flash of 1600W, but the bulb will operate normally.

An additional example: Consider hammering a nail in to a board. In this case, we want the board to "fail," to allow the nail in. Trying to push the nail in with your hand is near impossible, right? Even if you're using WAY more energy than you would using a hammer, you're applying that energy over too long a time, and you have low power. A hammer, on the other hand, takes less energy, but imparts that energy on the nail and in to the board in a much shorter time, meaning you can deliver much more power with a hammer than you can by pushing with your hands. This "power" only lasts for a split second, but that's all you need

Power = Energy / Time

You can see there are two ways to increase power... Either increase the energy, or decrease the time.

The total amount of KE is just a part of the equation. The other important half is, "over what amount of time did this energy transfer occur?" In the above example, the normally operating bulb expended 360,000 J of energy, over the course of one hour. In the 440 outlet, Just 1600 J of energy were expended, but the filament failed. That is because the normally operating bulb was operating at 100 Joules per second, while the one that failed was operating at 1600 Joules per second. Somewhere in between 100 Joules per second and 1600 Joules per second is the filaments power density limit. Exceed it, and the filament fails.

To get the bullet power, you must first determine the KE of each round.

55 gr, 3700 fps = 1671 ft lb
150gr, 2700 fps = 2427 ft lb

Here's the kicker... Since the 55gr bullet is shorter, and traveling much faster, it dumps that energy in to the plate much faster than the .308 bullet.

To find the impact time, you take the bullet length in inches divided by the bullet speed in inches per second, to give an approximate amount of time the bullet is in contact with the plate.

Next, take your KE divided by impact time for each round, you'll get a power rating in ft lb / s

When you compare those two numbers, you find that the 5.56 round is delivering 1.6 times as much power in to the plate as the .308. Even though it is smaller, lighter, and has less KE, the bullet exceeded the plates power density rating, and punched a hole through it.

While .308 delivers more KE to the target, 5.56 delivers it's energy considerably faster.

How do you like that P229 chambered in .357 sig? I have been wanting to get one for a while now. Do you find it difficult to find ammo for it?

I haven't had a problem getting ammo, I bought a bunch before the availability got crazy. The recoil isn't bad, it's a little less than the .40, so that's a bonus. I've been tinkering with my carry gun, and the SIG gives me good capacity and manageable recoil. With the extra .40 barrel, if I don't want to shoot .357 SIG, I swap barrels and use a couple of my extra mags. A few minutes, and I'm banging away with the .40. I like it. :)

I need one. I carry my 229 now unless I am wearing a t-shirt then I will carry my bodyguard and in the winter I carry my springfield. A majority of my carry is with my 229 and it would be nice to have the option of 9mm and .357 sig.

I don't think a 357 SIG barrel will fit your 9mm frame, that would be a question for SIG. Since the 357 SIG is a necked down 40 (basically), the mags are the same for the 357 & 40. I got my 229 used for about $500, so that might be an option for you. Any excuse for another gun... :)

Well I have been going back and forth on whether or not I want a new p229 that comes chambered in .357 sig or if I want to get this which will fit my generation 9mm p229:

Sig Sauer P229 357 Caliber Exchange Kit 12rd

That might be a great way to go. I should look and see if they make a kit for mine that I could shoot 22 through it. But i think I'll just pick up a SIG Mosquito... :icon17:

I believe there is a kit for a .22 conversion or you could go with a mosquito. Personally I have never been a fan of .22's. They ALWAYS seem to have feeding issues, which I guess is not a problem for going to the range and plinking but I wouldn't want to carry one for protection.

CCI stingers for the .22LR feed issues with semi pistols. Usually, after break-in, there's seldom any problems.

I use copper-coated round-nose .22LRs and seldom experience a feed problem. I get frequent jams in some guns when using un-coated and/or blunt-nose bullets. YMMV

The biggest complaint I hear about the Mosquito is feed issues, then upon questioning the shooter, they just took it out of the box, loaded it up and started banging away. The owner's manual says to thoroughly clean it before shooting to remove assembly lube, which could cause some functionality issues. I've shot a couple different ones and haven't had an issue with feeding, as long as you use good quality 22 ammo. We did have some issues with some of the lower velocity 22, but we passed it off as something we did incorrectly, rather than crappy ammo. It loves CCI Mini-Mags and most other hyper-velocity stuff.

Yeah, cleaning that "goop" off from the factory is a given. My Glock 17 was the same.

its amazing how many people do not know how to properly break in a gun....or a car for that matter...:icon14:

I usually break in cars, following manufacturers' recommendation. I've never "broken in" a gun. Often, not always, I'll clean it first...at least run a swap down the bore, maybe apply a little oil, but I largely believe "break in" to be an unnecessary step for a combat firearm.

Explosives anybody?

From my experience all firearms have some sort of break in period regardless of make, model, what the manufacture says, or price tag. This doesn't mean a firearm won't function properly or be in-accurate with out breaking it in. Usually breaking in a firearm only involves putting rounds through it. Some people have intricate break in methods but I feel they are mostly unnecessary.

FYI I do disassemble, inspect, clean, lube, reassemble and functionality check of all of my new firearms before firing them for the first time.

I have a Taurus 608, an 8 shot 357 Mag revolver. When new the double action on the trigger was rough, so I followed the advise of a revolver collector I know. I bought 8 357 Mag snap caps and cycled the trigger as much as possible. The trigger smoothed out and I got some good trigger practice.

When I bought my Ruger MKIII 22lr pistol it took a couple hundred rounds before it started cycling reliably. Now it is rare for my MKIII to have a stoppage.

I have 2 full size HK45s. One that I have put thousands of rounds through and one I just bought a few months ago that only has few hundred. The older one has a smother action than the newer one and shoots better in general. Even with that said, both are very accurate and very reliable. No failures/stoppages yet.

Most experts do not considered a firearm combat ready until thousands of rounds have been fired through it, even if it is "combat firearm" and/or a proven make and model. Personally I don't considered one of my firearms reliable for my personal defense until I have put at least 500+ rounds though it usually firing many different types of ammo.

You wouldn't consider a car reliable if you only drove it a couple time around the block.

:postwhore:

:icon17: