1911s make me :drool:

When you say notably, are we talking 2-3 inches or is it an even bigger shift?

Honestly, I don't know...more like a couple of inches at 25 yards I think. It's never been something I've seen to be an issue in several thousand rounds through my gun, but I've seen it reported about the M&P. It's generally reported as a greater-than-expected fall-off in POI from 7 yards to 25 yards when using lighter bullet weights, and it appears to be more of an issue in the .40 cal. Now, I almost exclusively shoot PMC Bronze 115 gr. bullets and, as I say, I don't see any accuracy problems. My suspicion when I see things like that is that it's shooter-related rather than equipment. I do note that the M&P with stock sights is one where there is a disparity between sight height and lining up the three dots. In my experience, line up the three dots accurately and it will shoot dead on, but in a quick sight picture, one might inadvertently line up the top of the front sight with the top of the rear sight blade and that will cause it to shoot about 2 inches high at 25 yards. It holds very nice groups with a good trigger, but it will **** to the right on pull with their typical stock trigger. The DCAEK is a cheap and very simple modification that replaces the sear, sear spring/plunger, and striker block and really cleans up the trigger. The stock trigger will smooth out a lot over time they day, but I didn't want to wait and replaced mine right away.

I do fairly often get the slide to release on seating a magazine on a tactical reload. I don't mind that much, but it does give instructors the heebie-jeebies from a safety standpoint at courses with a lot of shooters on the line.

Overall, I really like my M&P as a range and course gun. It's been accurate and absolutely reliable for me.

I agree with that. I prefer single-stacks for CCW and frequently use a Walther PPS in 9mm for carry, if and when I carry. It's a very slim pistol and conceals very well.

I'm one of those rare shooters who doesn't have a yearning for a 1911. Just not something that interests me, but I acknowledge the attraction many people have for it.

In 11 years I have used the M-16 family rifles all the way to the M-4... People complain about the M-4's 5.56 but i never had an issue in Iraq or afghanistan ( just keep it clean at the end of the day ). I had an M-4 but then i switch to the 416.... MUCH, much better. You can mount almost anything, andis not as sensitive to heavy firing nor dirt. Since the SCAR rifle ( GREAT ) is out, the 416 are on sale so you can get a great deal. Lots of guys from "groups" or "teams" are buying the 416 rather than the newer and pricier SCAR.

I'm not to worried about thickness. When I was deployed I could carry my M-9 in a Belt holster (had it just behind my right hip bone, and would frequently have people asking me where my pistol is. I'm not big but i think my build is pretty well suited to putting a pistol there. It's a comfortable draw, just have to see how it works with normal street clothes as opposed to my ACUs.

Does anyone else here own a Smith and Wesson 1911? I ask because this trigger is just frustrating. There is north/south slop and east west slop. Anybody have this experience with the stainless steel and what aftermarket triggers worked for you? It makes it really really really difficult to not jerk the trigger with all the slop.

I called glock yesterday and they are sending out the new spring. Hopefully this will solve the problem.

Froglube
 

has anyone tried froglube for their firearms? Supposedly it works great. Watched some youtube vid and what not.

Just curious on your thoughts.

Frog Lube

glock gen4 19
 

Is there a hogue grip for the gen4 19's?

Like automobile lubricants, weapon lube concepts tend to be WAY overthought, IMHO.

I've started using my leftover Redline synthetic from the Z. I have 3 quarts... which is going to be a lifetime supply for my AR and G26 :icon17:

Given the environment that a weapon lube has to perform in, I can't imagine how any of the expensive lubes like Frog or Slip could possibly perform any better than a quality synthetic engine oil.

It would be interesting to send some samples of quality synthetic motor oil and the top gun lubricant to a lab for testing to see what the differences are, if any, in their lubricating properties. I can't imagine there's much at all.

Want to volunteer as the guinea pig for that?? :D I would bet that it would work, although it seems that gun oil is a bit thinner than most motor oil.

Depends on the gun oil I guess. Rem Oil that you can buy at Wally World is super thin, but some of the other stuff is a good bit thicker.

Arrrgggg, this is so frustrating. The commemorative pistol purchase that we did with S&W is taking forever! The POC for our task force got the order submitted way back in February or March. Saw them take my payment in Approximately April. They were supposed to be ready for us to pick up when we returned in June. Then apparently there was a mixup at S&W, so our pistols got delayed until October, so they said they would send them to a Dealer here in El Paso. Well, it is now November and no word on our pistols. The NCO that is the rep has yet to hear anything new about the pistols. I'm about ready to ask S&W for my money back at this point.

So i called S&W Customer service and they were very helpful. I was able to find out that our orders got pushed back due to a few key people that left and also because of the merger with Thompson Center. The expected delivery date for my pistol is 2 Dec 2011. I also found out that there are to orders and mine is part of the larger order. Hopefully all goes well and i have a new pistol for Christmas! :D

So I just did the CHL class in order to actually be able to carry this pistol I bought and am still waiting for (hoping for an early December arrival). Question is what holster would you recommend. I want to get an IWB holster that I can place just behind my right hip (roughly between the side pocket on a pair of khaki pants and the butt pocket). I used a blackhawk Sherpa holster when I was deployed and could pretty easily conceal a Beretta 92FS in that spot, so I assume an M&P wouldn't be any different. One other thing is i would want a slight cant so the barrel is pointed towards the rear. Any suggestions on where to start looking?

BLACKHAWK CQC!!! lol. I stand by it. Used it for 3years now. Can't imagine using anything else, both off and on duty (well on duty with a low profile)!

so has anyone try using froglube to clean their guns?

If you use the Blackhawk CQC make sure you train with it like crazy. They are banned from a lot of competitions because the draw can be dangerous in a stressful situation. I think a few people have had their fingers slip onto the trigger during the draw and shot themselves in the leg.

I think the problem is most people tend to push down on the release really hard and they maintain that pressure as they draw from the holster, and that can cause their finger to slip onto the trigger and *boom*.

Look at Comp-Tac. The MTAC IWB holster is what I use and it is fantastic. Very comfortable and concealable. Also very well made and the turnaround time is pretty quick.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-g...252520MTAC.jpg

Springfield m1911 gi-spec .45
Walther PPK .380 (made in germany)

nope. But I have used Gunzilla. Remarkable stuff. It gets carbon and powder residue out of an already cleaned weapon! It took the place of all of my other cleaners ...including lubes. I now use Hoppe's #9 as a room freshener.

I spilled a medium size full bottle of Hoppes #9 all over the carpet not too long ago. Oops. :bowrofl:

Well I broke down and spent money I probably shouldn't have. I've been wanting a new light for my G23. The Sig I have is nice but I wanted a bit more. So I went, with what I think is the best in the industry, the Surefire X300. Found it on E-Bay for $205.

Also Comp-Tac has a Black Friday Sale of 20% off everything today only with the coupon code "Black-2011." So I order a new Belt Holster for my G23 with X300 light, a Minotaur Concealment Pouch to carry an extra G36 magazine and a new set of Standard Clips for my current Minotaur MTAC Holster.

Now I just have to wait till my next R&R in March to get home and try everything. LOL!

Never had a problem with it. I've used the thing for so long, I guess I'm just use to it. I have heard of this happening tho. But hey, I guess not everyone can be as great as me.... :roflpuke2:

^^^LOL! IF they draw correctly their trigger finger should land on the slide as they pull up on their weapon. Not on the trigger or inside the trigger guard.

^Operative phrase^.

IMHO, it's a dangerous holster for those that don't train regularly with it.

Like I said:

still building my second fusion kit

Fusion CCO Build

and my first..
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-l..._2370677_o.jpg
https://picasaweb.google.com/airdami...eat=directlink

"Can I Swap Out My Trigger?" Threads - 1911Forum


Every 1911 is a little different, and just about all parts are file-to-fit.. you can't get a super tight weapon any other way. Mass manufacturers have resorted to using MIM parts and CNC to get the close tolerances needed for a minimal assembly time. I don't truly have any problem with MIM parts like some people. But when I'm spending 2k$ plus to build myself a pistol.. I'm choosing tool steel and filing to fit. The real problem with 'drop-in' parts is that they usually fit very badly, or at least not as close as I'd like.. if you can pick one up, shake it, and anything rattles.... a truly tight one won't make a single sound.

what do you think is causing the slop? I only buy triggers that I have to file to fit.. is it directly the trigger without any of the safeties disabled? If the shoe is a drop-in part done by the factory you might gain a much better fit by replacing it.. I'd get a trigger track stone at the same time and knock down any roughness in the channel.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-A...2/DSC_9648.JPG
that's an ok example of where I was smoothing...

and this shows the track
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-G...2/DSC_9646.JPG

If you're not comfortable with the job and don't want to trust yourself with fully safety checking the weapon when you're done, I'd suggest having a smith do it. I'm just some guy on the internet with a 1911 building habit... a smith can probably make a much better trigger than most people, for less than the cost of the tools that are needed. Brownells will have everything that you need.

I'd recommend the Harrison Design stuff. I've used his triggers on both my builds, and he lived down the street from me. I used his entire ignition set on my first build, and a cylinder and slide ignition kit on the CCO. both came out with fantastic triggers.

Hey all I just picked up a new Ruger Mini-14. I have never had a rifle like this and don't really know what kind of scope to get. It's not going to be used much, so the scope doesn't need to be fancy. Looking to spend $100 or less. Any suggestions?

http://www.tactical-life.com/online/...9/04/ruger.jpg

Just built this beauty
 

I just got done building this AR:

http://www.the370z.com/members/black...3-sweet-ar.jpg

The balance is wonderful, but I haven't yet had a chance to shoot it yet.

Specs:

Yankee Hill Milling YHM-15 lower
CMMG upper
Daniel Defense 16" mid-length, chrome-lined, 1:7 twist barrel
FailZero Basic bolt carrier group (SWEET)
VTAC Rail TRX Extreme by Troy 11" forend
Troy Industries Front and Rear Battlesights
Troy Industries gas block
Magpul MOE grip
Magpul UBR stock
Mount-N-Slot Hand Stop
Trijicon TA01NSN-RMR scope

Very nice!

Bueller? Anyone? :confused:

Well what are you going to be using the ruger for? target? varmint? defense? militia training?

Unfortunately I don't know too much about inexpensive optics :(

But, with that being said if I were in the market for one I would just go to Cabela's and buy it from there since they will stand behind whatever manufacturer they sell, which looks to me to be of quality.

As a casual shooter I would go for a 4-6X power scope.

Hopefully that helps.

My two cents