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Originally Posted by Rusty Make sure your barrel nut is tight, and your scope mounts. Look into your scope through the big end. As you are looking through it. Focus
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#2 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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Next time out. Check your zero. Shoot slow. Take your time. After that. If your group doesn't change. Shoot a rapid bunch or two. See what happens to your group. If it starts to string out. Vert or Hor in a some what straight line. Something is pushing the barrel when it gets hot. Let the gun cool off. Then shoot a slow bunch again. And see what the group looks like.
Have a 7mm Rem Mag that would shoot dime size groups all day long. Long as the barrel didn't get too warm. Once warm, it would start to go vert with each shot. Found that the stock had a tit at the end that just touched the barrel. When the barrel heated up. It would push the point of impact up with each shot. Since I fixed it. It will shoot dime size groups no matter the barrel temp now.
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#3 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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Just a quick review of mine on the Aimpoint T2 paired with the G33 magnifier.
![]() I have so far had 3 other people look through my T2 and G33 combo. Everyone wonders...is the t2 really a crisp dot or not? 1 person said it was like 2 dots on top of each other. Myself and the other 2 see a crisp dot. Defined edges. To be fair to the guy who didn't see this...he did not adjust the diopter. It may well have been an issue of diopter. But to me once it's dialed in, I saw a very crisp dot! ![]() So how does it do in the real world? Well, I stuck to 50 yards because that is the limit at which with my vision I can shoot the same groups roughly magnified or unmagnified. My first test was for POI shift from unmagnified (group on the left) to magnified (group on the right). I used RA556B for this test. 5 show groups. ![]() Next was my question of...does the dot have to be centered in the g33? What if the adjustment knobs get messed with after I zero? So I fired 3 rounds with the dot centered. 3 rounds with the magnifier adjusted so that the dot was in the extreme bottom left and 3/4 of the sigh picture was shadowed. Then did the same with the dot in the upper right. 9 shots total at 50 yards. I used mk262 IMI. Please excuse my flier. I am not Molon, and this is a chrome lined .gov 16" barrel. ![]() As you can see...poi shift seems nonexistent. I am very pleased with the added capabilities that the g33 brings to the t2. Total weight with mounts is roughly 17oz. Oh...and here is my Internet commando group of the day. 3 shots ra556b unmagnified at 50y. Ignore the one flier...:P ![]() Quirks... When magnified in the right light you can see the diode housing faintly around the dot if you dial illumination a couple settings higher than necessary. It's a quirk but a non issue. The bobro absolute cw spacer is too low for the g33 without riser. The lower 1/3 bobro is perfect as pictured. Having a suppressed m4 on a public range gets me more attention that driving a c6 z06 did. If you want to be popular... The magnifier didn't much improve my groups if any at 50, but it was very useful for making those shots easily. I had to work without it. I think the adjustable diopter is mandatory for a clear dot. This made the g33 my choice over the Aimpoint model. "Bloom" around the dot is much more noticeable with the G33 in place. Dot intensity matters more than unmagnified but it won't hurt ability to engage. It just isn't picture perfect. There is some halo/Starburst around the still crisp and defined dot. This is evident only to me at night, or in very overcast weather. It will not interfere with shot placement or PID, but it's something to be aware of. This is not an etched reticle, it's still a "ball of light". It looks like at 50 yards with a rds my ddm4 is a 1 moa gun with mk262 and a 2 moa gun with ra556b. Not shabby! *All shots off a concrete bench using the magazine as a monopod. DDM4 built by Daniel Defense, 16.1" CHF Chrome lined barrel, with Surefire 556-212 suppressor in place, using 212a muzzle device. Geissele SSA trigger. Target squares are true 1". Stretching things out to 100 yards, the G33 REALLY helped the process.
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#4 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
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Quote:
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#5 (permalink) | |
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Astigmatism is usually well-corrected with accurately ground prescription lenses. Hint: your 1-hour budget lens grinder at your local mall is usually not the best place to get accurately-ground corrective lenses. I have a G33 magnifier and a G23 magnifier mounted behind various optics, including my 4 MOA T-1, various Eotechs, and a couple of 2 MOA Aimpoint PROs. The magnifiers work great for me. I flip them down for any shooting 25 yards and farther. The G33 is definitely a significant improvement over the G23. Last edited by MacCool; 05-23-2015 at 09:47 AM. |
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#6 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
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Quote:
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#7 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
On this rifle I got about a 2moa shift with the suppressor. |
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#8 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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High with the muffler? With everything being the same.The suppressor usually increases bullet velocity. Which makes the bullet fly flatter.
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#9 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
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What you're talking about is "freebore", and it's typically less than the variance from shot to shot in velocity increase, and some suppressors don't have any appreciable freebore effect. At the extreme edge you're looking at about a 20fps increase or so on rifles, maybe 30-50 with a pistol. No, the POI shift has to do with changing the barrel's harmonics, and there is no written rule. Last edited by ImportConvert; 05-25-2015 at 08:41 AM. |
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#10 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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I've been looking at something capable of deep concealed. I have an S&W 9mm shield with modified trigger I carry. But I'm an active person, my clothes are mostly fitted style and I'm constantly on the go. So it gets uncomfortable to carry in an IWV holster all the time, and to be honest it mostly lives in my glove box!!! I just want something to put in my pocket. I've been back and forth on this for weeks?
anyone have any opinions on the S&W bodyguard? I'm not opposed to spending more cash on a nicer 380. But, being I have the Shield already and am used to the manual safety, I'm thinking it might be beneficial not change my draw process? Or am I over thinking this thing? the others on the top of my list were 1. Kahr p380 2. Sig p250 maybe some others I should consider? |
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#11 (permalink) | |
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#12 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
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Many people get locked into this "Talisman" mentality, where carrying a firearm is a binary thing: Have/Do not have. Sure, you can argue "But I'll most likely just need it at 5-7 feet or so and for a couple of shots, and the psychological effect is more important than..." Yeah, but I you can also argue "You're not likely to need a firearm at all..." and the argument holds a lot more water, as it's very true. You're not. But if you do...make sure you're carrying one that you won't feel like you short-changed yourself on when you draw it. It's a personal question, so only you can answer it, which is why I'm not providing any critique except my above thoughts on the subject. Ponder them, and you will have the best answer you can get. For you. |
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#14 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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Everyone I know that has a muffler, including me. All shoot high because of the increase in velocity. Usually about 150fps. Have heard of a few that the point of impact shifted left or right also.
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#15 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
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I would challenge you to show this to me, this 150fps increase. As a datapoint, all of the rifles I've suppressed shoot low with the can, to varying degrees. Again though, it's just harmonic variance. YMMV of course. The 150fps increase though, is many times what I've seen proven. Here is one example: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LwnG1dz0Du0 |
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