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The New “What did you do with your Z today” (with off topic replies) XXXIV

Having difficulties using a DeWalt sawzall with a five-inch metal blade on the rear bushing. Have the rubber and center piece out. But I'm being too cautious with my sawzalling

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Old 01-21-2020, 10:49 PM   #9721 (permalink)
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Having difficulties using a DeWalt sawzall with a five-inch metal blade on the rear bushing. Have the rubber and center piece out. But I'm being too cautious with my sawzalling as I don't want to slice into the subframe cutting out the shell.

I would really prefer not to have to drop the subframe. I bought a tranny jack (the type that's not Falcon's preferred style of intimate contact) from Harbor Stank so I can drop it I have to. But I'd really rather not.

Thoughts?

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Old 01-21-2020, 10:51 PM   #9722 (permalink)
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Having difficulties using a DeWalt sawzall with a five-inch metal blade on the rear bushing. Have the rubber and center piece out. But I'm being too cautious with my sawzalling as I don't want to slice into the subframe cutting out the shell.

I would really prefer not to have to drop the subframe. I bought a tranny jack (the type that's not Falcon's preferred style of intimate contact) from Harbor Stank so I can drop it I have to. But I'd really rather not.

Thoughts?

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Small cutoff wheel on a dremel get in there?
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Old 01-21-2020, 10:59 PM   #9723 (permalink)
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It's blind faith. Make 3 cuts in the outer shell. One bottom dead center, the other 2 in the 4 o:clock and 8 o:clock positions. Once you think you're cut almost all the way through. Take a muffler inside cutting tool and beat the outer shell out. Position the tool at the cuts you made.

Pic of tool. It's for an air chisel, but will work with a hammer.
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Old 01-21-2020, 11:03 PM   #9724 (permalink)
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It's best to work from the front of the hole for removing and installing.
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Old 01-21-2020, 11:06 PM   #9725 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by madwi View Post
Small cutoff wheel on a dremel get in there?
Not really. It would have to have a 90 degree head. Plus you are cutting through the remaining rubber and silicone. Those little cut off wheels ain't up to that kind of cutting.
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Old 01-21-2020, 11:11 PM   #9726 (permalink)
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It's best to work from the front of the hole for removing and installing.
That's what she said!!!!!!!

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Old 01-21-2020, 11:13 PM   #9727 (permalink)
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All jokes aside. Would it be less blind faith if I dropped the subframe? Bc I like operating on el blind-o faith-o even less than I like dropping the subframe.

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Old 01-21-2020, 11:21 PM   #9728 (permalink)
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It's blind faith. Make 3 cuts in the outer shell. One bottom dead center, the other 2 in the 4 o:clock and 8 o:clock positions. Once you think you're cut almost all the way through. Take a muffler inside cutting tool and beat the outer shell out. Position the tool at the cuts you made.

Pic of tool. It's for an air chisel, but will work with a hammer.


I watched the shop where my car's at do a G37 today. Pretty much did the same cuts and then he used a big chisel to beat the outer shell out. He had the damn thing out in about fifteen minutes. Of course he had the car on a four post lift though.
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Old 01-21-2020, 11:25 PM   #9729 (permalink)
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I watched the shop where my car's at do a G37 today. Pretty much did the same cuts and then he used a big chisel to beat the outer shell out. He had the damn thing out in about fifteen minutes. Of course he had the car on a four post lift though.
Was he using a full-size Sawzall or one of the mini-job saber saws?
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Old 01-21-2020, 11:29 PM   #9730 (permalink)
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All jokes aside. Would it be less blind faith if I dropped the subframe? Bc I like operating on el blind-o faith-o even less than I like dropping the subframe.

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I'm guessing the tool from Z1 is out of the question?
It looks expensive for something you can probably Jerry rig yourself, but you can always sell it to someone else on the forum when someone else's inevitable blows out.

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Old 01-21-2020, 11:31 PM   #9731 (permalink)
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Was he using a full-size Sawzall or one of the mini-job saber saws?
Full sized. The G37 might have more working room under it though.
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Old 01-21-2020, 11:34 PM   #9732 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by BildoDabbins View Post
https://www.z1motorsports.com/transm...l-p-11086.html

I'm guessing the tool from Z1 is out of the question?
It looks expensive for something you can probably Jerry rig yourself, but you can always sell it to someone else on the forum when someone else's inevitable blows out.

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There's actually one floating around on the forum that's available for use, you just have to pay shipping from the previous user. I think most people find it easier to cut it out.
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Old 01-21-2020, 11:37 PM   #9733 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by redondoaveb View Post


I watched the shop where my car's at do a G37 today. Pretty much did the same cuts and then he used a big chisel to beat the outer shell out. He had the damn thing out in about fifteen minutes. Of course he had the car on a four post lift though.
I did 3 diff bushings with the cars on jack stands and me on my back. Had them out in about 20 minutes.

Once you have that outer shell out. You need to remove any burrs and high spots in the hole. Use a round file to knock them down and then use a 60 grit flapper wheel to clean the hole up. You can use the flapper wheel with a cordless drill. But a 1/4" air die grinder works best.
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Old 01-21-2020, 11:38 PM   #9734 (permalink)
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There's actually one floating around on the forum that's available for use, you just have to pay shipping from the previous user. I think most people find it easier to cut it out.
That's hilarious they're just passing it around for shipping costs? This forum just gets better and better lmao

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Old 01-21-2020, 11:39 PM   #9735 (permalink)
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Full sized. The G37 might have more working room under it though.
I used a full sized Craftsman.
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