Mishimoto Thermostat

kenny's 370z

the evo dont have a head design like the 370 where the vvel dumps alot of heat into the engine.im running a modified oem stat right now with one spring cut until my mishimoto stat comes in and my water wants to run 160-180 and my oil is running 190-205 and my gas is 19.7 with quite a bit of spirited driving.this is only temp because it does take to long to warm up when the ambient temps are in the 50's.but as i said,the water dots sit where they are suppose to once my water gets to 148 and i dont speculate im going to throw any cels with the 150 stat unless the 150 stat will allow the water temp to drop below 150f.

ShutokuZ

Yes, totally different heads, but still the same principal behind the operation of thermos. What deg would you guess your mod'd oem thermo is rated at? IIRC, the mishimoto is rated at 150deg to open. Since the Zs run a little hotter than others, I am not sure if the 150deg would be too cold for a DD to warm up properly. Just my 0.02.....

JC671

I'll be installing mine soon. Im in constant 85-95+ degree whether though so I'm hoping this thermostat will help keep me at 180 or so cause I heat up fast with just DDing.

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DEpointfive0

Someone is welcome to correct me, but the 150 degree thermostat means its FULLY open at 150 vs stock 180...
Which means the water temp probably won't reach 150 unless you beat on it because the thermostat will still be open at a lower temperature

kenny's 370z

the 180 starts opening at 180 and what i have read on this forum its not fully open until 200f so the 150 should be wide open at 170

ShutokuZ

You are correct sir! So, with the thermo open all the time, it is constantly circulating the coolant keeping the temps below the 150deg rating. A good way to test it (or even see if you suspect a faulty thermo), warm a pot of water to 150deg (or whatever deg rating on the thermo) and drop it in. You will see it open and how far it opens.

Edit, above is right, thermos usually fully open around 20deg past the rated temp. So, the 150 would fully open around 170, however it is still partially open at 150, causing coolant to still circulate, although not at full capacity. So, for DD around town, the car will stay around 160 unless on the freeway or pushing it hard on the streets. That is when it would get up to full opperating temps. I could actually see my temp needle moving in my Evo when I pushed it, then let off for a while.

kenny's 370z

you dont have to beat on it for it to warm up and go past 200 even with my modded stat.remember this car has a 1 row 15mm radiator on a performance engine.if it would have had the correct cooling capacity on this car then i wouldnt be having to go through extreme lengths to keep it cool which is a royal pita.

now if you drive like grandma,then disregard all of my replies even though the water temp is still going to rise at idle or in traffic with stop and go.especially if you dont have the uprev fan control.with the 180 stat,my water wants to run at 192 and jump to 200 at idle.i have also read the ecu starts cutting timing when water hits 190.so with the oem stat,you dont have very long from a cold start before the ecu starts to cut timing,or power.my car runs great when my water is at 160-170.wish i could keep it there 100% of the time after initial warm up .

Sh0velMan

I am seeing huge power drops because of coolant temp (10 degrees = 4 timing = 15-20hp on my car) and spikes to ~230 during AutoX events.

I think the CSF radiator is exactly what I need to get that under control... Unless you have other ideas? I'm definitely open to suggestions!

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binary0x01

I'm planning on doing that in December, I'll report back when it is done.

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Dan@RAD

If you are tracking the car, then I would definitely recommend the CSF radiator and the t-stat. Whenever you are ready to pull the trigger, we can get them for you since we are direct with CSF.

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DEpointfive0

My case in point

Chuck33079

I'm still kinda leery of Mishimoto build quality. Personally, I'd go with the Infiniti thermostat. If the thermostat fails closed, you've got a serious problem on your hands. Maybe they're better than they were in the past, but I'm not going to be the guinea pig.

DEpointfive0

If you're tracking it, sure... And you're running a bottle, you have TOTALLY different needs

Sir, you are 100% correct
The temp is when it OPENS and it is fully open at about 20 degrees about the rated temp:
What does the thermostat do and what typically... — Yahoo! Autos

But I do wonder how quickly that spring loses it's... springiness??? If the maintenance manual suggests you change the radiator cap every 30k miles, why not the thermostat, it has has roughly the same design, no?

But a 150 degree thermostat still feels low. I believe the car "wants" to be at 180... And has anyone ACTUALLY confirmed the engine pulling timing once the water temp reaches 190, I have seen a lot of recent speculation because "a guy at the dealershit told me"

It would seem REALLY stupid to me that Nissan would put a 180 degree thermostat only for the car to start slowing itself down 10 degrees later...

And different front bumper for better cooling FTW! Not enough air reaches anything in front of out cars
I'll be the guinea pig, I think I'll buy it and install it Friday, and I'll keep you guys updated

binary0x01

What bumper do you suggest?

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Dustin@Z1

Just tossing this in there....

You can run a 350Z VQ35DE Thermostat on a 370Z as well. There are many more options for the older 350Z thermostats than for the 370Z's VQ37VHR engine. The only difference is that you will have to remove the Pipe fitting from the thermostat and install a plug.

I made a batch of Low Temp 350Z thermostats for a 370Z owner by knocking out the pipe and tapping it for a NPT pipe plug. Sealed perfect with no leaks. Some of the 350Z thermostats open up slightly lower. Mishimotor 350Z themostats open up at 62° vs. the 370Z model at 66°.