How much boost pressure can a built VQ37VHR withstand?

BBRSpeedWorks · 11-04-2014, 11:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TopgunZ

You could go to the 6766 but I still think that you will be happy with the amount of boost and near zero lag from the 6266. Throwing a huge turbo on a low compression engine isn't going to be very fun on the streets. That's why I am building mine with 11:1 cr but I am on E85. I don't see a reason you would need more than 21 lbs anyway. Unless time slips are your number one goal.

The twin setup I'm building next well be what enends up on my car someday..I think the 6266 should be more than enough...I think if I can get high 6 to low 700 the z will be point less so that what I'm shooting for...lol...but my number one goal is busting *** on high dollar cars its what I love idk y but I love to say I have less 30k in my car and I just walked you. ..plus the z will never do what my talon will do on the strip so I'm not going to try...I like to slide....

KratikosG37 · 11-04-2014, 11:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by G37Sam

One of the reasons people build their engines is to drop compression to a decent enough level for boost. The OEM compression ratio is too high for pump fuel.

You also need to keep in mind that traction is a major issue on our cars, and the increased torque makes breaking parts in your drivetrain much easier. If you're building a dyno queen you'll be fine but anything you plan to race requires serious consideration in terms of traction and strength.

Agreed. After reading this thread, they're no reason for 600+whp for street use.

12 PSI tune on OEM engine is a protenial low 11's 1/4 mile car all day long.

IMO i'm happy with 8 PSI with 450ishwhp. Can do a John Force in 3 gears, or 1.6 60ft with good tires(and great driver).

Just don't see the point in building a engine other then appying some where other then the street. (Not implying street racing for $$$ just normal use fyi)

TopgunZ · 11-04-2014, 12:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BBRSpeedWorks

The twin setup I'm building next well be what enends up on my car someday..I think the 6266 should be more than enough...I think if I can get high 6 to low 700 the z will be point less so that what I'm shooting for...lol...but my number one goal is busting *** on high dollar cars its what I love idk y but I love to say I have less 30k in my car and I just walked you. ..plus the z will never do what my talon will do on the strip so I'm not going to try...I like to slide....

I cant wait to see how this project turns out!
Please log your boost curve upon completion of dyno. I mean, that is after all the number 1 reason to make it twins vs. single right?

1slow370 · 11-04-2014, 12:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KratikosG37

Agreed. After reading this thread, they're no reason for 600+whp for street use.

12 PSI tune on OEM engine is a protenial low 11's 1/4 mile car all day long.

IMO i'm happy with 8 PSI with 480whp. Can do a John Force in 3 gears, or 1.6 60ft with good tires(and great driver).

Just don't see the point in building a engine other then appying some where other then the street. (Not implying street racing for $$$ just normal use fyi)

Yup I have 370whp and I'm running out of traction need to get better tires. 500+ whp is pretty useless on these cars unless you want to go a bazillion mph.

BBRSpeedWorks · 11-04-2014, 12:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TopgunZ

I cant wait to see how this project turns out!
Please log your boost curve upon completion of dyno. I mean, that is after all the number 1 reason to make it twins vs. single right?

I have tons and tons of info on all the work I do...but I will for sure....as far as traction goes I was putting down 500 whp and didn't have a problem with traction out side of first and tires warm..and that's on stock 2014 rays

TerribleONE · 11-04-2014, 12:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BBRSpeedWorks

I have tons and tons of info on all the work I do...but I will for sure....as far as traction goes I was putting down 500 whp and didn't have a problem with traction out side of first and tires warm..and that's on stock 2014 rays

Surprised to hear this. My car has trouble putting down the power even in 2nd. Running 305 PSS's and whiteline diff bushings.

Chuck33079 · 11-04-2014, 12:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TerribleONE

Surprised to hear this. My car has trouble putting down the power even in 2nd. Running 305 PSS's and whiteline diff bushings.

Mine will get sloppy as hell in 2nd, and I'm probably only putting down ~480whp or so.

TopgunZ · 11-04-2014, 01:19 PM

I always wonder whats really going on with traction. I have around 500 and I spin through 1st but hook up pretty hard in 2nd, in summer.

And 10 lbs on E85 with 16* timing is plenty to put me in the range of "I should be losing traction".

Nissan370 · 11-04-2014, 01:32 PM

hmmm. i also have 500+ and i have traction in all but 1st and part of second.
now i do have a wheel hop problem i am chasing but once she is rolling shes gone.
i dont think 500 even 550 is to much power for the street, out of boost the car drives just like stock

1slow370 · 11-04-2014, 01:35 PM

see there is a problem here you have guys who only give a shiz about putting down power in a drag, then you have guys who actually want to drive the car and use that power like a normal car. can the z be set up to put down 500hp in a straight line under semi controlled conditions? sure but it doesn't mean that it isn't going to be a total bitch to use that power while actually driving. thats why when robispec took the blue meanie out in a time attack against the greedy tt car put together by one of the magazines his lap times were only .1 of a second slower. This car can't really use more than 450whp even when fully set up.

jwick · 11-04-2014, 01:39 PM

Guess I'll chime in...First is worthless, I get most of 2nd if the temperature is above 90, 3rd gear I hook up unless temperatures are below 60. Haven't seen temps in the 40's yet.

Best DynoJet number guess is 480whp/450wtq @ 10psi. I do have the diff bushing upgrade which seems to help.

TopgunZ · 11-04-2014, 01:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1slow370

see there is a problem here you have guys who only give a shiz about putting down power in a drag, then you have guys who actually want to drive the car and use that power like a normal car. can the z be set up to put down 500hp in a straight line under semi controlled conditions? sure but it doesn't mean that it isn't going to be a total bitch to use that power while actually driving. thats why when robispec took the blue meanie out in a time attack against the greedy tt car put together by one of the magazines his lap times were only .1 of a second slower. This car can't really use more than 450whp even when fully set up.

Absolutely. There's a huge difference once you start turning the wheel in regards to traction. I take it your building your NA beast for this very reason?

1slow370 · 11-04-2014, 01:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TopgunZ

Absolutely. There's a huge difference once you start turning the wheel in regards to traction. I take it your building your NA beast for this very reason?

Pretty much it's more controllable/consistent, another 40hp and I will be happy but I still ned to get used to what I have now.

Nissan370 · 11-04-2014, 01:50 PM

you have to take the good with the bad. i mean if you want to drive the car like normal then dont boost it. we all know you cant just add 5-600hp to a stock car and expect it to run normal with all stock suspension.
redo the suspension to match the power and the car will run like a race car

but then expect to lose so of that comfort you just have to find that zone.

when i had my mustang i made about 550rwhp or so and over did the suspension to support 800 or so hp and it was horrible to drive on a day to day

TopgunZ · 11-04-2014, 01:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1slow370

Pretty much it's more controllable/consistent, another 40hp and I will be happy but I still ned to get used to what I have now.

Damn. Aren't you blowing the old NA record out of the water? How do you plan to add the 40 more? That thing will be faster than most 350Z's with FI.

11-04-2014, 01:19 PM	#83 (permalink)
TopgunZ A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Minneapolis Posts: 2,651 Drives: 06 350Z , 09 370Z MT Rep Power: 6833	I always wonder whats really going on with traction. I have around 500 and I spin through 1st but hook up pretty hard in 2nd, in summer. And 10 lbs on E85 with 16* timing is plenty to put me in the range of "I should be losing traction". __________________ ROTREX SUPERCHARGER TUNER KITS - $6799/ CUSTOM STILLEN AIR TO AIR KITS -$2100/ 700+ WHP!! WWW.TOPGUNSPEEDWORKS.COM

11-04-2014, 01:32 PM	#84 (permalink)
Nissan370 Enthusiast Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Baltimore Posts: 431 Drives: 2009 ST BLK 370Z Rep Power: 14	hmmm. i also have 500+ and i have traction in all but 1st and part of second. now i do have a wheel hop problem i am chasing but once she is rolling shes gone. i dont think 500 even 550 is to much power for the street, out of boost the car drives just like stock BBRSpeedWorks likes this. __________________ 370z vsr motorsports single turbo/built motor 9.1cr 525rwhp/450rwtq @ 10.5psi (stock maf maxed out) Last edited by Nissan370; 11-04-2014 at 01:35 PM.

11-04-2014, 01:35 PM	#85 (permalink)
1slow370 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: In the D Posts: 3,732 Drives: v8 74 260z ;) Rep Power: 7250	see there is a problem here you have guys who only give a shiz about putting down power in a drag, then you have guys who actually want to drive the car and use that power like a normal car. can the z be set up to put down 500hp in a straight line under semi controlled conditions? sure but it doesn't mean that it isn't going to be a total bitch to use that power while actually driving. thats why when robispec took the blue meanie out in a time attack against the greedy tt car put together by one of the magazines his lap times were only .1 of a second slower. This car can't really use more than 450whp even when fully set up. __________________ ANSWER PRICE LIST Answers - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $0.75 Answers (requiring thought) - - - - $1.25 Answers (correct) - - - - - - - - - - $12.50

11-04-2014, 01:39 PM	#86 (permalink)
jwick A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Houston Posts: 14,532 Drives: '10 G37 6MT Rep Power: 2465056	Guess I'll chime in...First is worthless, I get most of 2nd if the temperature is above 90, 3rd gear I hook up unless temperatures are below 60. Haven't seen temps in the 40's yet. Best DynoJet number guess is 480whp/450wtq @ 10psi. I do have the diff bushing upgrade which seems to help. __________________ '10 G37T 6MT Graphite/Graphite - BP - G37T Build

11-04-2014, 01:50 PM	#89 (permalink)
Nissan370 Enthusiast Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Baltimore Posts: 431 Drives: 2009 ST BLK 370Z Rep Power: 14	you have to take the good with the bad. i mean if you want to drive the car like normal then dont boost it. we all know you cant just add 5-600hp to a stock car and expect it to run normal with all stock suspension. redo the suspension to match the power and the car will run like a race car but then expect to lose so of that comfort you just have to find that zone. when i had my mustang i made about 550rwhp or so and over did the suspension to support 800 or so hp and it was horrible to drive on a day to day __________________ 370z vsr motorsports single turbo/built motor 9.1cr 525rwhp/450rwtq @ 10.5psi (stock maf maxed out)

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