OEM Hood v Seibon TS Testing

Sh0velMan

The coolant temp sensor isn't in the radiator.

More than likely, it's the block heating the water while it sits.

Matt, when you let it sit like that, try this:

1) Start engine, let it idle for 10 seconds or so (assuming oil is hot)
2) Note water temp
3) Rev the engine freely to 4K 3 or 4 times.
4) Note water temp

You should see a sharp drop in the reported water temp after just revving it a few times (spinning up the water pump).

Seems to me that in the VQ platform (or at least, the HR and VHR versions) they learned their lessons from the older engines (RB, VG and SR) and made the water pump a low-flow per RPM design with only 5 or 6 vanes on the wheel. This means you have to put some revs on the engine to get the water to circulate fast enough to see an accurate water temp, but also means it doesn't cavitate at high RPM.

For example of the design differences I mean:

OEM RB water pump:

N1 RB water pump:


I know this is a bit off topic, but it's something I've done some research in to literally in the last two weeks, so I thought I'd share.

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