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infrared thermometer is what you were thinking, i picked up the harbor freight one years ago (yes it still works) and it has a laser pointer that is fun to
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#1 (permalink) |
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infrared thermometer is what you were thinking, i picked up the harbor freight one years ago (yes it still works) and it has a laser pointer that is fun to play with and it reads within about 5 deg depending. IR thermometers don't like shiny or transparent materials tho. tried to measure the temp of a chromed friction roller at work and i know it it was second degree burns hot but gun said it was 81 degrees (the $750 company one said it was 83.6) and it only cost me $35 on sale.
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#2 (permalink) |
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First log done last week, just got around to editing it.
Also, the fat wavy line on the oil temp is because my temps have been 'bouncing' around lately. I originally thought it was the gauge going bad but the OBD2 sensor and uprev both read it this way. I have added a red line above it to show the actual change in oil temp in a more usable readout. Details First graph: -Morning cold start, around 6:00AM -About a 20 mile drive with little to no traffic, almost all freeway, speed kept above 70MPH -Ambient temps were between 80-86 degrees -The point where the rad fans kick on is when I was exiting off a freeway, sat in a right turn lane for 2-3 minutes and then got back onto another freeway Peak numbers: -Engine oil 192°F -Fuel temp 95°F -Intake temp 95°F -Coolant temp 210°F Engine off numbers: -Engine oil 190°F -Fuel temp 95°F -Intake temp 90°F -Coolant temp 203°F
( Click to show/hide )
Second graph: -This is after a 10 minute idle with the engine shut off from the above drive -Followed by a short 3-4 minute drive to see how the engine will cool off -Speed kept under 30mph Engine on numbers: -Engine oil 172°F -Fuel temp 97°F -Intake temp 120° -Coolant temp 208° Lowest numbers: -Engine oil 160°F -Fuel temp 97°F -Intake temp 118°F -Coolant temp 203°F
( Click to show/hide )
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This is some good data right here ,and the main reason why I got rid of my CSF radiator. Driving around and having almost 210 degree coolant temp is hot one pull and your over 220 easy.
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#4 (permalink) | |
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I can agree, even with the CSF radiator I can hit 220, but I am also on stock fan settings still but that is mostly for post hard driving to help cool down. After my hood upgrade, if it works, my next cooling upgrade is going to be the SPAL fans by GTM to hopefully just drop in and pull more air.
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I just swapped it for the Mishimoto radiator 2 days ago so far I am loving the results. So far I haven't had any 85 degree days to compare it in the same temps I was having high coolant temp issues. I will say this much testing it in the same type of conditions I have the last two days has given much lower temps. I had my tuner Vince change my fan settings for them to come on sooner and it help very little with the CSF radiator.
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Just curious, I find your results very interesting! |
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This is the stock hood graphs, right?
More data is always useful, but I think the most important differential is going to be coolant temps. If the hood vents are working correctly, airflow through the radiator should increase substantially (both stopped with rad fans on, and especially at cruising speeds) from the pressure relief behind the fans, and that should in turn show up in the coolant temp graphs pretty noticeably. Knowing how good flow affects everything else related to bay heat and all that would be nice, but if the coolant temp drops you know you're moving things in the right direction and the rest is just details. |
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Sorry yes, this is all OEM hood for right now. I have the Seibon TS hood, but waiting to paint & install it for now.
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My curiosity is pegged on the drive in 95+ degree weather for 20-30 minutes and then shut it down and idle for 10 minutes and then check the temps. This happens to me a lot, drive around, go into a store and come back out, water temps will go from 205 to 225 while just sitting for a bit.
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#11 (permalink) | |
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This will allow hotter air to get away from the car and bring fresh/cooler air to the radiator keeping temps down without creating heat soak.
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More than likely, it's the block heating the water while it sits. Matt, when you let it sit like that, try this: 1) Start engine, let it idle for 10 seconds or so (assuming oil is hot) 2) Note water temp 3) Rev the engine freely to 4K 3 or 4 times. 4) Note water temp You should see a sharp drop in the reported water temp after just revving it a few times (spinning up the water pump). Seems to me that in the VQ platform (or at least, the HR and VHR versions) they learned their lessons from the older engines (RB, VG and SR) and made the water pump a low-flow per RPM design with only 5 or 6 vanes on the wheel. This means you have to put some revs on the engine to get the water to circulate fast enough to see an accurate water temp, but also means it doesn't cavitate at high RPM. For example of the design differences I mean: OEM RB water pump:
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N1 RB water pump:
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I know this is a bit off topic, but it's something I've done some research in to literally in the last two weeks, so I thought I'd share. |
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Is this with making no changes at all to fan profile? Just curious.
I'm playing with my fan tables to try and min/max coolant an oil temps. Mostly, I don't want too much fan keeping the oil from coming up to temp (and keeping me in the 'cold' fuel tables) and I don't want too little so that coolant doesn't get enough flow... yeehaw. |
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So I remember I decided to log a ran/fan duty cycle once to see if this was ever changed, had to find it.
Using this image from the coolant fan speed thread, this is the OEM setup:
( Click to show/hide )
My logs follow it down to the t, at 214 I can see it go from 0% to 55% and so on as the log jumps to 219 degrees and the duty cycle hit 85%, never got to 221 but I have seen it before and I could hear the fans pumping! So I would say I am using the stock OEM fan duty cycle, and shovel, I have noticed when I turn the car over from off, and start to back out or move the intake temp & water temp drop about 2 degrees usually.
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