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Originally Posted by theDreamer My curiosity is pegged on the drive in 95+ degree weather for 20-30 minutes and then shut it down and idle for 10 minutes and then
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#1 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
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#2 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
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This will allow hotter air to get away from the car and bring fresh/cooler air to the radiator keeping temps down without creating heat soak.
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#3 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
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More than likely, it's the block heating the water while it sits. Matt, when you let it sit like that, try this: 1) Start engine, let it idle for 10 seconds or so (assuming oil is hot) 2) Note water temp 3) Rev the engine freely to 4K 3 or 4 times. 4) Note water temp You should see a sharp drop in the reported water temp after just revving it a few times (spinning up the water pump). Seems to me that in the VQ platform (or at least, the HR and VHR versions) they learned their lessons from the older engines (RB, VG and SR) and made the water pump a low-flow per RPM design with only 5 or 6 vanes on the wheel. This means you have to put some revs on the engine to get the water to circulate fast enough to see an accurate water temp, but also means it doesn't cavitate at high RPM. For example of the design differences I mean: OEM RB water pump:
( Click to show/hide )
N1 RB water pump:
( Click to show/hide )
I know this is a bit off topic, but it's something I've done some research in to literally in the last two weeks, so I thought I'd share. |
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