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OEM Hood v Seibon TS Testing

Originally Posted by theDreamer My curiosity is pegged on the drive in 95+ degree weather for 20-30 minutes and then shut it down and idle for 10 minutes and then

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Old 08-19-2013, 01:41 PM   #1 (permalink)
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My curiosity is pegged on the drive in 95+ degree weather for 20-30 minutes and then shut it down and idle for 10 minutes and then check the temps. This happens to me a lot, drive around, go into a store and come back out, water temps will go from 205 to 225 while just sitting for a bit.
maybe since theres no air moving thru the radiator then the water/antifreeze in it is just soaking up the heat from the radiators metal..... maybe?
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Old 08-19-2013, 01:43 PM   #2 (permalink)
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maybe since theres no air moving thru the radiator then the water/antifreeze in it is just soaking up the heat from the radiators metal..... maybe?
That is what I am assuming is happening, my hope is with an open hood design we see the ambient temps are able to drop around the engine allow some air flow even while the car is sitting.
This will allow hotter air to get away from the car and bring fresh/cooler air to the radiator keeping temps down without creating heat soak.
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Old 08-19-2013, 01:49 PM   #3 (permalink)
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maybe since theres no air moving thru the radiator then the water/antifreeze in it is just soaking up the heat from the radiators metal..... maybe?
The coolant temp sensor isn't in the radiator.

More than likely, it's the block heating the water while it sits.

Matt, when you let it sit like that, try this:

1) Start engine, let it idle for 10 seconds or so (assuming oil is hot)
2) Note water temp
3) Rev the engine freely to 4K 3 or 4 times.
4) Note water temp

You should see a sharp drop in the reported water temp after just revving it a few times (spinning up the water pump).

Seems to me that in the VQ platform (or at least, the HR and VHR versions) they learned their lessons from the older engines (RB, VG and SR) and made the water pump a low-flow per RPM design with only 5 or 6 vanes on the wheel. This means you have to put some revs on the engine to get the water to circulate fast enough to see an accurate water temp, but also means it doesn't cavitate at high RPM.

For example of the design differences I mean:

OEM RB water pump:
( Click to show/hide )

N1 RB water pump:
( Click to show/hide )


I know this is a bit off topic, but it's something I've done some research in to literally in the last two weeks, so I thought I'd share.
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