I completely agree with you but in my case I was thinking of achieving 550 hp max until I can afford to build the internals. Would the longevity of the engine not be extended since your not running so much boost? The stress from the high hp will still be the same so I see what your saying

Sent with TapAhoe

I'd be more worried about the torque, especially when those turbos start spinning, as it's a direct measurement of force applied on a given object, it is what breaks $hit

Took the words out of my mouth. And in the past, I've run a 50/50 water/meth mix on another vehicle. It allowed more timing, and another 3 psi of boost. It was a lot of fun, but I was always afraid of the meth kit failing in mid pull. I don't have a lot of faith that the failsafes would work fast enough to save the motor.

You need to put 2 nozzles in 1 in each intake pipe about 6in in front of the throttle body's but behind the MAF's.

So if one buys the GTR manifold you will need a nozzle for each cylinder?

Sent with TapAhoe

For the trouble I had to go thru with the install ,tune , cost of Meth it wasn't worth the 30-35 rwhp you get

All you guys with these TT GTM kits will all be able to get over 500 rwhp it's enough anything more your just compensating for a small unit.

Iam really not looking for more power but only to safe-guard the stock block....

If you want safe tell your tuner to dial back on the timing and keep the rwhp to 450-500.

525-550 here but I drive my car maybe 6 times a year. Hopefully the block will hold till I'm ready good internal upgrades

Sent with TapAhoe

6 times a year???? That will certainly change when you go boost.

Lol probably will I haven't even gotten my hands on the kit and I already have like 4 boost your shirts. Favorite one is my keep calm and boost on shirt

Sent with TapAhoe

I have never liked meth for that reason i.e. the worry about it failing at the wrong time. I had a kit on my STi that immediately had issues and after that I was just like, nah. It's too many additional points of failure and it requires a completely new tune since meth is a fuel and jacks with the ratios. I would be more inclined to run straight water injection to manage temps and run a bit leaner on the fuel side.

I never had a problem, and the power was nice. I just never felt comfortable with it. I don't trust the failsafes to shut it down to waste gate boost in time to save the motor.

To each his own but already knowing what the stock block can handle I feel it wouldn't be a bad investment if even if I decided on not tapping each port and just tapping the intakes....

It's not bad if you just use the additional octane for detonation resistance, and some water to cool everything down. It's when you lean it out and add timing with an aggressive meth tune you start playing with fire.

So water injection sounds like a better and safer deal?

Sent with TapAhoe

Wouldn't really say better or safer. Just different and in some ways slightly simpler.

Iam thinking about just sticking with the gtm tune and just turning he boost down a bit and things should be fine.. Looking forward to hearing how easy this new twin turbo install is going to be from you guys...

For reliability, go get a custom tune and explain your concerns to the tuner. Leave it a little richer and don't add so much timing. You can still get plenty of power. The Garrett setup can make far more power than the stock block can handle without meth.

I had a "in-the-shower" kinda thought this morning: Has anyone discussed doing ceramic coating on the manifolds or downpipes for their kits? I was wondering if that was a cost-effective modification, and the associated benefits with ceramic coating.

I had the manifolds, downpipes and hot sides of the turbo ceramic coated. I couldn't tell you how effective it is, since these cars run hot anyway and I have nothing to compare it to. It wasn't too expensive. I'd do it if you have the choice.

I'm just going to wrap the down pipes and wastegate down pipes. I'm also working on a plan direct air at the turbo manifolds.

I was going to coat all hot side parts and wrap the CBE UP to the mufflers

Sent with TapAhoe

I don't see no need in wrapping the CBE. It's well beneath or back from the engine compartment where additional heat wouldn't be added.

I'd stop worrying about it after the downpipes end. By then you're out of the engine compartment.

Well here's my reason for that. I heard if you completely wrap everything you have more potential for flames to shoot out I know it sounds stupid but I wanted to try it. I figured since I'll be under there anyway I wanted to bust this myth.

Sent with TapAhoe

I ordered the IWG and I have a 7AT, any downside to that?

The 7at lol

No

Thx I was in pickle debating between EWG or IWG.

Iwg works, but it can be prone to boost creep on smaller turbos with engines that pump a lot of air. Ewg always allows better boost control. Boosting the 7at has its own issues which have been well documented at this point.

I have looked into it and I am going to purchase a boost controller for the same reason but just wanted to clear that out from experience turbo users.

A boost controller will have no effect on boost creep. That's a mechanical issue. No guarantee it'll happen, but its possible.

Downside is the extra cost to keep the 7AT alive.

Just make sure that you get a transmission cooler and either the Transgo or GTM valve body upgrades and you should be fine.

Correct.

I would also suggest that anyone who is going with a much larger exhaust, ie. 3" would probably be more prone to boost creep with IWG's. I haven't run a search but has there been much of a history of boost creep with 370Z/G37 TT installs? I don't remember seeing mention of it.

OP, make sure that you install a good boost gauge and set alarms. If you find that the boost is creeping consistently then you can look at either porting or swapping to EWG.

I have a feeling that once everyone starts their GTM installs and run them for a few months, we will start to see what issues are common across the setups. If 50 kits are installed then we should have several thousand miles worth of 'real world' testing done within just a few weeks. :tup:

There's not a history of boost creep, but the 16g is the smallest turbo I've heard of being used so far.

Glad I chose to go with the 18G then! :happydance:

Yea I went with the 18Gs for the same reason haha, but yes I already have a Tranny cooler, VB, and workin on getting my gauges to have prepped before I get my kit...and yes I didn't go 3" on my exhaust seeing as you still get pretty solid numbers with 2.5" :D But thx for the info guys I just have a quick question though, have any of yall looked into Zeitronix Dash Daq XL?? Or should I stick to regular Gauges?

I was just going to go regular but I saw a parrot system on here with a GTR your load out.

Sent with TapAhoe

Type*

Sent with TapAhoe