*****Fast Intentions "Twin Turbo Kit" is here*****

SgtGoldy

Your competition are now exotics/modded muscle

Sent from my Note 3 & Galaxy Gear using Tapatalk

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roplusbee

DAMN! That vid is not fair dude. Posting things like that make those of us that do not have one to crunch numbers unnecessarily.

"In my most self convincing voice"........I am happy with my Greddy Kit and set-up. I am only a few parts (grand) away from a complete monster. The F.I. Kit would be awesome, but would cause a complete budget overhaul in my case...........you don't need it, you want it.

You guys are mean and you know it...........that said, that **** is awesome SUN!

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2007 350Z NISMO #0618: Zerolift | UPREV | F.I. | Greddy | Competition Clutch | Injector Dynamics | Aeromotive | Pioneer | JL

esfourteen

the FI kit is amazing, but why would you consider switching kits? phunk has already made 586 at 9psi on e85 with the greddy kit, that kit can do 700whp on a built block no question

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Build Thread | GTM TT Install Thread | Engine Build Thread

roplusbee

Very true, but it is so tempting........

I am currently pushing 534 to the wheels and I still have to do the S2 fuel system upgrade as well as forged internals. In the back of my mind, I know that it is unnecessary. But damn.........

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2007 350Z NISMO #0618: Zerolift | UPREV | F.I. | Greddy | Competition Clutch | Injector Dynamics | Aeromotive | Pioneer | JL

djtodd

Overbuilding a fuel system is never a bad thing

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phunk

wiser words have never been spoken!

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Nixlimited

Quick question to my TT compatriots. My system, as below, uses the HTA2868 turbos and I have no cats and a 2.5" FI exhaust. My engine is also fairly fresh--just 5100 miles.

I am getting some fairly substantial blue smoke at times while driving the car. I assume by color and smell, that it is oil being burned. It seems to happen mostly when slowing down while in gear (i.e. while pulling a lot of vacuum) and seems to be more prevalent when the car is cold than warm, though today it happened after a quick jaunt in traffic with the car completely warmed up and very little boost. It's never happened when I start the car up, and it doesn't happen when the car idles. I also assume the amount of smoke may be a bit misleading due to the vacuum trap behind the car while it is moving causing it to build up.

I know to some extent, having no cats and such, I will get less refined exhaust gas. I have dealt with that before. However, I am concerned about the source of the oil being burnt. If it only happened when cold, I would think, maybe blowby as things warm up. But I am also curious whether I may have a bad turbo seal.

In any event, I was hoping to see whether anyone running TTs and no cats has similar experience. If not, then I may have an issue unique to my car. If so, then I may need to just consider some downstream cats and catch-cans.

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Car Sold! Pleasure being a part of the Z community.
New ride: 2015 GT-R - 647 WHP / 641 WTQ (e85) & 543 WHP / 519 WTQ (91)

rcdash

Get a replacement PCV valve ($15), drill it out from behind so it is just an open nipple, put a breather on it, cap off any open hoses and see if the problem goes away. If it does, you have a crankcase ventilation issue and you can reference multiple threads on how best to address. You may continue to see smoke for a few miles as oil in the intake system works its way through.

esfourteen

I realize this response is a bit late and off topic, but since it was posted here I wanted to follow up for anyone who runs into a similar issue. I had the exact same symptoms recently, though with more miles (23k, ~13k boosted). I suspected it was the PCV's, finally swapped mine today and sure enough the the ball inside the valve was stuck. With the new PCV's I haven't had any smoking issues at all.

Note: there were 2 other possibilities that I ruled out but should mention: 1.) Bad turbos, or turbo oil return not draining properly. 2.) Valve seals.

Hope this helps.

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Build Thread | GTM TT Install Thread | Engine Build Thread

Nixlimited

Yep, had my PCVs swapped out as well and haven't had any smoking issues. The only concern is whether the PCVs are going to become a short-cycle wear item, or if we just got unlucky.

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Car Sold! Pleasure being a part of the Z community.
New ride: 2015 GT-R - 647 WHP / 641 WTQ (e85) & 543 WHP / 519 WTQ (91)

Super Werty

Get some in-line pcv. I used this on my rotrex boosted set up on my tacoma. Works like a charm

Vacuum Check Valve- TREADSTONE PERFORMANCE

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The Build

N0SL3N

It seems like it could be a blown seal in the turbo, stuck PCV valve or bad valve seals.

However I had this same problem with my dad's Porsche and it turns out that it was just too much oil in the engine.

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Nixlimited

I'll check the oil level today just to make sure it's not too high or too low.

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Car Sold! Pleasure being a part of the Z community.
New ride: 2015 GT-R - 647 WHP / 641 WTQ (e85) & 543 WHP / 519 WTQ (91)

Rid3_FaM0uS

My turbo is smoking and it's brand new. The shaft has normal play in it so is one of my seals blown?
A. The term "blown seal" is widely used to describe a turbo that has oil coming out of it. In reality a turbocharger seal cannot become damaged until the freeplay of the shaft has increased to the point where the blades of the turbocharger have been rubbing against the housings. Blade contact usually requires more than .035" of side to side movement of the shaft. In some cases it is even possible to rub the blades and still not damage the seals.
If the turbo is new and the shaft isn't loose and bouncing off the housings, but oil is coming out of it chances are you can correct the problem without even taking the turbo back off the car.

The seals within the turbo are not meant to hold back a bearing housing that has become full of oil. They are designed to sling the oil mist and spray within the bearing housing away from the point where the shaft comes out each end. If the bearing housing becomes full of oil it will ooze out past even brand new seal rings.

The oil should freely drain out of the bearing housing as quickly as the engine supplies it. This is why the drain tube is so much larger than the supply tube. Gravity is the only force moving the oil out of the turbocharger. Any slight restriction in the oil drain tube, even a small silicone dingle berry, can slightly impede the draining of the oil and cause oil to back up into the bearing housing.

The crankcase vents are the second largest cause of oil loss from a good condition turbocharger. The seals in the turbocharger were designed with expectation that the pressure inside the compressor and turbine housing will always be greater than the pressure in the bearing housing. If this is ever not the case then oil will come out pass the seals. A restricted crankcase vent will cause this to happen. If the amount of ring blowby exceeds the ability of the crank vents to release the pressure positive pressure will build within the crankcase. This pressure within the crankcase can exceed the pressure inside the compressor and turbine housings under some operating conditions resulting in oil being driven pass the seals by the improperly biased pressure gradient across the seal rings. In severe cases it may be necessary to introduce vacuum pumps to deal with crankcase pressure, but these would be very severe high boost applications where even low percentages of blowby produce a high volume of crankcase vent flow.

Here you go nix this would be a good place to start. Pulled this FAQ right from forced performances website

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Ninjahero

How much longer for the Automatic Transmission upgrade. I can not wait any longer. =\