Beefing up the short block for tt

SharpByCoop · 01-08-2013, 10:20 AM

I ran the OEM components up to 591 hp and at that point the rods bent like an S. Fortunately no damage, but that happened. 550 is really close to that.

Lower end built to exactly your query: K1 rods, ARP studs, OEM gaskets and bearings, and Wiseco 9.0:1 pistons. Had the rotating assembly/pistons/rods balanced as well.

This has the ability to sustain more than 600whp now, with upgraded fuel components (which I also did.)

I thought the 9:1 pistons would be doggish. No way. The engine has SO much torque that after the tuner added ignition timing there, it drives as responsive as it used to. Not a notable loss at partial throttle.

My experience. It also costs a FORTUNE to remove engine to do all this. I would lock it at 525whp and ride into the sunset if you don't plan on pushing further.

Coop

BlkNismo · 01-08-2013, 01:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SharpByCoop

I ran the OEM components up to 591 hp and at that point the rods bent like an S. Fortunately no damage, but that happened. 550 is really close to that.

Lower end built to exactly your query: K1 rods, ARP studs, OEM gaskets and bearings, and Wiseco 9.0:1 pistons. Had the rotating assembly/pistons/rods balanced as well.

This has the ability to sustain more than 600whp now, with upgraded fuel components (which I also did.)

I thought the 9:1 pistons would be doggish. No way. The engine has SO much torque that after the tuner added ignition timing there, it drives as responsive as it used to. Not a notable loss at partial throttle.

My experience. It also costs a FORTUNE to remove engine to do all this. I would lock it at 525whp and ride into the sunset if you don't plan on pushing further.

Coop

Ultimately, If I decide to run oem block, I will probably lock it in around 450-470whp. Running off an ebc, I suppose the lowest boost I could run in 6.5-7psi?

theDreamer · 01-09-2013, 08:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlkNismo

Ultimately, If I decide to run oem block, I will probably lock it in around 450-470whp. Running off an ebc, I suppose the lowest boost I could run in 6.5-7psi?

You can run boost down as low as the spring will allow. I believe some can go as low as 4PSI but I think most run 6PSI as lowest and then tune it up to 10-12PSI for those fun runs.

Cmike2780 · 01-08-2013, 02:07 PM

Although the stock block has more than proven itself to be plenty reliable if you don't go too crazy with boost, I think the OP has the right approach. I design structural components for buildings and as a rule of thumb, its always best to overdesign something rather than have it fail due to something unforseen. The engineers at Nissan know this...which is why it can handle a bit of boost. If you can afford to spend the cash for a build, it's going to save you a lot of time and headache later when/if you decide you want more power. You need to find the right balance of what you can afford to spend and reliability. If you don't leave yourself a margin for error, you'll end up broke like a few guys I've heard rumors about.

Red__Zed · 01-09-2013, 08:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cmike2780

Although the stock block has more than proven itself to be plenty reliable if you don't go too crazy with boost, I think the OP has the right approach. I design structural components for buildings and as a rule of thumb, its always best to overdesign something rather than have it fail due to something unforseen. The engineers at Nissan know this...which is why it can handle a bit of boost. If you can afford to spend the cash for a build, it's going to save you a lot of time and headache later when/if you decide you want more power. You need to find the right balance of what you can afford to spend and reliability. If you don't leave yourself a margin for error, you'll end up broke like a few guys I've heard rumors about.

It's not so simple to say that aftermarket parts are overdesigned. There are a myriad of complex factors that come into play when you start swapping internals, and you're usually trading certain types of reliability for others.

Cmike2780 · 01-09-2013, 11:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Red__Zed

It's not so simple to say that aftermarket parts are overdesigned. There are a myriad of complex factors that come into play when you start swapping internals, and you're usually trading certain types of reliability for others.

I'm not saying aftermarket parts are necessarily better and I never said ALL aftermarket parts were overdesigned. I was refering to the overall approach to the engine build. You overdesign the block to handle more than what you need. Of course it's not that simple, but staying with components designed for 332-350 hp and boosting it to 550hp or more isn't the correct path either. The reliability aspect isn't guaranteed when you do ANY type of modification. A huge factor is going to be on the mechanic doing the work.

DIGItonium · 01-09-2013, 09:22 AM

I'm jealous of FI owners tuned to over 500 whp. Granted, 400-450 whp is more than enough to shred meaty tires. My car is so much more fun to drive now after replacing the brake switch and slightly tightening the manual boost controller (1/8th turn).

As for longevity, my car is daily driven. My friends asked me to track it, but I prefer not to since this is a daily driver setup - not a bulletproof track setup. My car had about 22k miles when the turbos were installed, and it is marching towards 49k miles. Sometimes I wonder if the engine will outlast the turbos.

BlkNismo · 01-09-2013, 10:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DIGItonium

I'm jealous of FI owners tuned to over 500 whp. Granted, 400-450 whp is more than enough to shred meaty tires. My car is so much more fun to drive now after replacing the brake switch and slightly tightening the manual boost controller (1/8th turn).

As for longevity, my car is daily driven. My friends asked me to track it, but I prefer not to since this is a daily driver setup - not a bulletproof track setup. My car had about 22k miles when the turbos were installed, and it is marching towards 49k miles. Sometimes I wonder if the engine will outlast the turbos.

I thought you had sold your Z, I'm glad to hear you had a change of heart.

DIGItonium · 01-09-2013, 02:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlkNismo

I thought you had sold your Z, I'm glad to hear you had a change of heart.

No real bites other than some trade or low ball offers, but I spent the entire Christmas break re-evaluating the situation and decided to hang on to the car. Oh, the recent trip to the dealer to replace the brake switch finally resolved the annoying throttle lag and slow acceleration issue since first ownership in '09. Imagine flooring it 1st and 2nd to redline, and not seeing boost! Throttle barely opened up.

elperuano · 01-09-2013, 02:07 PM

^that might be a good thing. If I floor it in 1st or 2nd I see no traction!

DIGItonium · 01-10-2013, 08:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by elperuano

^that might be a good thing. If I floor it in 1st or 2nd I see no traction!

That's the problem. I don't think traction can be seen.

FPenvy · 01-10-2013, 08:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DIGItonium

That's the problem. I don't think traction can be seen.

lack of traction can be seen by those strange set of black marks he leaves on the road

GaleForce · 01-10-2013, 12:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FPenvy

lack of traction can be seen by those strange set of black marks he leaves on the road

Those black marks are called "elevens"

FPenvy · 01-10-2013, 12:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GaleForce

Those black marks are called "elevens"

oooooo

elperuano · 01-10-2013, 10:42 AM

01-08-2013, 10:20 AM	#1 (permalink)
SharpByCoop Enthusiast Member Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Connecticut Posts: 286 Drives: '08 G37S - Graphite Rep Power: 15	I ran the OEM components up to 591 hp and at that point the rods bent like an S. Fortunately no damage, but that happened. 550 is really close to that. Lower end built to exactly your query: K1 rods, ARP studs, OEM gaskets and bearings, and Wiseco 9.0:1 pistons. Had the rotating assembly/pistons/rods balanced as well. This has the ability to sustain more than 600whp now, with upgraded fuel components (which I also did.) I thought the 9:1 pistons would be doggish. No way. The engine has SO much torque that after the tuner added ignition timing there, it drives as responsive as it used to. Not a notable loss at partial throttle. My experience. It also costs a FORTUNE to remove engine to do all this. I would lock it at 525whp and ride into the sunset if you don't plan on pushing further. Coop __________________ Jim Cooper - (Retired: '08 Infiniti G37 Sport • TheShopCT built • 11.13 @ 123 mph (click for vid) • GTM Stage II Twin Turbo • 5-speed A/T Level Ten built • 591whp @17 lbs boost)

01-08-2013, 02:07 PM	#4 (permalink)
Cmike2780 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Long Island Posts: 5,059 Drives: slowwww Rep Power: 30	Although the stock block has more than proven itself to be plenty reliable if you don't go too crazy with boost, I think the OP has the right approach. I design structural components for buildings and as a rule of thumb, its always best to overdesign something rather than have it fail due to something unforseen. The engineers at Nissan know this...which is why it can handle a bit of boost. If you can afford to spend the cash for a build, it's going to save you a lot of time and headache later when/if you decide you want more power. You need to find the right balance of what you can afford to spend and reliability. If you don't leave yourself a margin for error, you'll end up broke like a few guys I've heard rumors about. __________________ [09][MB][6-Spd MT][Touring][Stillen Gen III][K&N][Borla CBE][Evo-R] [ArchitTEK Photography]

01-09-2013, 09:22 AM	#7 (permalink)
DIGItonium A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Kansas Posts: 3,800 Drives: 09 Z34-TT 6MT Rep Power: 43	I'm jealous of FI owners tuned to over 500 whp. Granted, 400-450 whp is more than enough to shred meaty tires. My car is so much more fun to drive now after replacing the brake switch and slightly tightening the manual boost controller (1/8th turn). As for longevity, my car is daily driven. My friends asked me to track it, but I prefer not to since this is a daily driver setup - not a bulletproof track setup. My car had about 22k miles when the turbos were installed, and it is marching towards 49k miles. Sometimes I wonder if the engine will outlast the turbos. GaleForce and MyKindaGuise like this. __________________

01-09-2013, 02:07 PM	#10 (permalink)
elperuano A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Southwest FL Posts: 1,374 Drives: G37S Rep Power: 29	^that might be a good thing. If I floor it in 1st or 2nd I see no traction! GaleForce likes this.

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01-10-2013, 10:42 AM	#15 (permalink)
elperuano A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Southwest FL Posts: 1,374 Drives: G37S Rep Power: 29