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Stillen Supercharger reliabiity

Originally Posted by dansracing Stillen gear arrived today. SC kit and a 25 row oil cooler. Intake tube goes off to the powder coater tomorrow. I am going to do

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Old 02-21-2013, 12:28 PM   #121 (permalink)
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Stillen gear arrived today. SC kit and a 25 row oil cooler. Intake tube goes off to the powder coater tomorrow. I am going to do a little paint work on the intake plenum while waiting. Hope to get it in the shop for installation by late next week.
Congrats!! You will enjoy it!!
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Old 02-21-2013, 05:31 PM   #122 (permalink)
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Nor am I racing the car. I've had the kit for 2.5 years now and my stock clutch is going out. I plan to replace clutch and most definitely the CSC. I'm currently experiencing slipping under heavy acceleration. I've already had the clutch fluid boil on me and turn black. had to fully drain and refill. But this is most likely due to the CSC going out....it is plastic after all!

So, if you have this kit or any FI, i'd recommend a new clutch & CSC in your near future.
I think my clutch is on the way out also... Have not had any problems with the CSC and I drive it like I stole it every time I start the car.

After 20k on the stock clutch it seems to be going.
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Old 02-21-2013, 09:06 PM   #123 (permalink)
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I think my clutch is on the way out also... Have not had any problems with the CSC and I drive it like I stole it every time I start the car.

After 20k on the stock clutch it seems to be going.
Thats not bad man. Im leaving the stock in till I burn it up.
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Old 02-22-2013, 05:32 AM   #124 (permalink)
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I generally do not keep my cars much past 100K miles, but I have had a single clutch go to 117K (without signs of wear) at which point I sold the car (1998 BMW 540i).
I have seen people do things with a clutch that make it clear they have no idea how a clutch works. A friend of my parents would go through the clutch in her 320 very 10k miles.
I have no doubt that the massive increase in the power of our FI Z's puts the stock clutch under increased stress, however, I also believe that the life span of a clutch will be most determined by how well you use the clutch (clutch spends as little time as possible "partially" engaged, and as much time as possible either all the way "in", or all the way "out"), rather than how hard you push the car.
So, my Z now has 3200 miles 1500 of which are with the Stillen SC. I am very curious to see how many miles I can get out of the stock clutch. I will not be babying the car. I drive it with traction control off most of the time and am continually amazed at how easy it is to leave rubber on the pavement, without actually trying to do so.
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Old 02-22-2013, 07:37 AM   #125 (permalink)
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I generally do not keep my cars much past 100K miles, but I have had a single clutch go to 117K (without signs of wear) at which point I sold the car (1998 BMW 540i).
I have seen people do things with a clutch that make it clear they have no idea how a clutch works. A friend of my parents would go through the clutch in her 320 very 10k miles.
I have no doubt that the massive increase in the power of our FI Z's puts the stock clutch under increased stress, however, I also believe that the life span of a clutch will be most determined by how well you use the clutch (clutch spends as little time as possible "partially" engaged, and as much time as possible either all the way "in", or all the way "out"), rather than how hard you push the car.
So, my Z now has 3200 miles 1500 of which are with the Stillen SC. I am very curious to see how many miles I can get out of the stock clutch. I will not be babying the car. I drive it with traction control off most of the time and am continually amazed at how easy it is to leave rubber on the pavement, without actually trying to do so.
My philosophy has always been "clutch out whenever possible" just because putting wear on a TOB (or CSC in our case.. ugh) for no reason by holding in the clutch doesn't make any sense.

I think the #1 thing that people do to wear out clutches prematurely is engine braking improperly.

Rather than double clutching to match engine revs/input shaft to the lower gear, they just slap it in gear and ease the clutch out, forcing the friction material to bear the brunt of bringing engine revs to where they should be...

I have friends that do this to their cars all the time and I shudder every single time.
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Old 02-22-2013, 09:11 AM   #126 (permalink)
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My philosophy has always been "clutch out whenever possible" just because putting wear on a TOB (or CSC in our case.. ugh) for no reason by holding in the clutch doesn't make any sense.

I think the #1 thing that people do to wear out clutches prematurely is engine braking improperly.

Rather than double clutching to match engine revs/input shaft to the lower gear, they just slap it in gear and ease the clutch out, forcing the friction material to bear the brunt of bringing engine revs to where they should be...

I have friends that do this to their cars all the time and I shudder every single time.
No argument clutch out is better than clutch in. Best place for your left foot when you are not actually changing gears is on the dead pedal.
Clutch wear comes from clutch plates sliding against each other. I have seen people stop on a hill at a red light and keep the clutch half engaged with a little bit of throttle to prevent the car from rolling backwards. They seemingly have no clue as to the damage they are doing.
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Old 07-07-2014, 12:51 PM   #127 (permalink)
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i have the kit, and it is reliable as long as you dont kill it all the time, i am wondering what the best tune is for it, i have the tune from stillen on it and it runs very rich. so i was wondering if a better tune would deminish that and get rid of the check engine light? and since stillen is very conservative, if a good tune would feel faster?
Thanks guys!
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Old 07-07-2014, 01:22 PM   #128 (permalink)
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i have the kit, and it is reliable as long as you dont kill it all the time, i am wondering what the best tune is for it, i have the tune from stillen on it and it runs very rich. so i was wondering if a better tune would deminish that and get rid of the check engine light? and since stillen is very conservative, if a good tune would feel faster?
Thanks guys!
Not to bad mouth Stillen, but all canned tunes are pretty meh to bad, GTM's canned tunes are not very good either. They are a means to get the car running, very conservative to protect the kit/engine, and that is about it.
So for a better tune, I would look locally at dyno tuners in your area (you are looking for uprev tuners). They can usually fix anything software wise wrong, so running lean, CEL, etc. are able to be improved upon along with giving the setup a little more kick while still protecting it.
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Old 07-07-2014, 01:27 PM   #129 (permalink)
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i have the kit, and it is reliable as long as you dont kill it all the time, i am wondering what the best tune is for it, i have the tune from stillen on it and it runs very rich. so i was wondering if a better tune would deminish that and get rid of the check engine light? and since stillen is very conservative, if a good tune would feel faster?
Thanks guys!
The tune on my car is very conservative and I gained a ton of power over the Stillen tune. My car didn't come to life until it had a custom tune.
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Old 07-07-2014, 01:35 PM   #130 (permalink)
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The tune on my car is very conservative and I gained a ton of power over the Stillen tune. My car didn't come to life until it had a custom tune.
are you running rich with it? how much WHP and WTQ do you have? and if you dont mind sharing how much you paid for the custom tune?
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Old 07-07-2014, 02:18 PM   #131 (permalink)
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It was around $500. It's 406 whp and 302 tq but on the Stillen tune it I think it was 340whp. The car not only makes more power it just runs better in every way. I hated it on the Stillen tune and was mad as hell at one point but UpRev tuning fixed all of the problems. On the track the thing is a blast now!


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Old 07-07-2014, 02:24 PM   #132 (permalink)
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$300 of that $500 was for the UpRev license.

My car is a little rich now but nothing like the caned tune. On the Stillen tune it was ridiculously rich. It blew giant smoke rings on the dyno with the caned tune.
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Old 07-07-2014, 02:52 PM   #133 (permalink)
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Looked like mine, My car on the Stillen tune made 342WHP( I made 300 WHP 233WTRQ bolted) Custom tune made 412WHP and 300WTRQ
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Old 07-07-2014, 03:03 PM   #134 (permalink)
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$300 of that $500 was for the UpRev license.

My car is a little rich now but nothing like the caned tune. On the Stillen tune it was ridiculously rich. It blew giant smoke rings on the dyno with the caned tune.
thanks bud! and i feel like you would get better gas milage not running as rich correct?
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Old 07-07-2014, 03:14 PM   #135 (permalink)
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Only if you can stay out of the gas! You didn't boost your car for milage but if you are married it might be a good sell.


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