Project Nismo Turbo build

Elmo370z

Just make sure we don’t say the saying “I told you so”

Gray Goose

Well, there are no engine machine shops in the area that have the proper equipment to help with our plan. So.......I might have to switch gears.

Looks like I might just go ahead and wet sleeve the block.
$2,300 for the sleeve install and deck surfacing plus the $1,050 for the sleeves.

Spooler

Make sure they are using a 3 or 4 axis CNC. If not, no go. You really need an experienced machine shop to do this. Contact Mazworx, they can help you out.

Gray Goose

They have a 3 axis and they install sleeves everyday. He said the did the same sleeves on a VQ35 last year. No issues.

Spooler

That makes me feel better about going with Darton MID sleeves.

phunk

If you arent going for over 800hp, I would recommend just doing a normal piston and rod build and leaving the cylinders alone. Less is more, when it comes to getting to spend some quality time behind the wheel of your Z. You could do a mild build to get your car back on the road so you can enjoy it, and use a spare motor to climb down the rabbit hole of experiments and unreliability. If you go straight to that type of build right now, statistics predict the car will be parted out after 3-4 years of nightmares and a solid 30+ grand in the hole. Not trying to be negative... just seen this happen too many times.

__________________

Spooler

That is what makes me nervous too.

phunk

Nobody likes when I tell them this... but almost 20 years in this industry I can promise anyone that it IS worth the money to have a spare engine when you have such a highly modified vehicle. The only exception might be if you have other highly modified vehicles to entertain you during your down time. If your big engine needs a break, you can swap to the bench warmer and keep it at 600hp or so and still love and enjoy the car. Its nearly impossible to stay in love with a car that is in pieces 90% of the ownership experience and a constant pitfall of cash. If you are actually getting to use and love it, it will be a lot easier to maintain a positive attitude about the car.

This is why I wont build the engine in the car anymore. You buy a core to build. Keep the stock engine stock and swap it back in if ever needed. It will still suck if the big engine has a problem and needs to come out, but at least you can be back in action 2 days later.

__________________

Spooler

You read my mind. I am buying all new stuff, that way I can take all my good parts out of the blown motor and build another spare for a whole lot cheaper. I am on the fence about finishing my garage and installing a lift so I can do the swaps myself. Time is just my enemy. We shall see on getting my garage finished. I know I need to do it to save time and money. I have the skills and tools to do what I need to do also.

Elmo370z

Guess I’ll just build my
Stock motor that’s in my
Trunk as a mild piston rod combo.

Spooler

I talked with Mark at Mazworx about building a spare motor a while back. He flat out said, "You won't need it". Man he is confident. I hope that holds true.

Gray Goose

I might just build out this motor without sleeves (but with all the other goodies) and think hard about that billet block. I can keep this engine under 750 WHP and be happy for a while.

Elmo370z

YOu have one the best tuners right near you. Seb!

Gray Goose

I need to change my profile. LA as in Louisiana

I use Admin Tuning (Moncef). He is only a 5 hour drive from me.

Spooler

The billet block would be nice. Since my motor popped, I am out on that for a while. You could build this motor out with ARP 625 and a quality headgasket, keep the boost at 17psi if you stay 11:1, Carrillo rods, and CP pistons. You may be OK for a while, You may not. I would suggest a better tuner with more experience though. Seb does remote tuning. I highly recommend you go that route. I think that was the main reason your other engine popped.