The waiting in line to get it fixed is what sucks the most.

Here is another very informative video.

I know all about waiting in line I'm in the same boat.

Were you using the RJM closed deck? If so, I have gotten reports of the cylinders still moving with them and head gaskets blowing. Guess the machine shops were correct in stating that you just can't get them in tight enough to support the cylinder.

If you used a stock bore piston, that can be sort of typical. They will often arrive too small to meet recommended piston to wall clearance for their alloy. I learned the hard way with that on the first VQ build I ever did for a customer. I had never used stock bore pistons before, but he supplied some he purchased online. My machinist who was setting up the clearances told me they came in on the loose side but that it would be OK, so I proceeded. On first start-up I heard it immediately. I couldn't return a car sounding like that. A day or two later I tore it all back down and rebuilt the engine again out of pocket. Changed the piston setup so we could achieve proper piston to wall clearance. Sounded great and the car went on to live happily ever after.

With correct piston to wall clearance, you shouldn't notice much (sometimes depending on exact alloy used), if any, more piston slap. Perhaps on a real cold start.

You, sir, are a King among men :tiphat:

Yes I have the RJM closed deck block. I can't confirm yet if the block was the cause hasn't been torn down yet. The only I can confirm is the car was running hot / high water temperature and there was a lot of smoke from the oil catch can. This was under normal driving conditions.

I doubt this is any different than the RJM block, but has anyone tried the CSS deck support? Pretty reasonable at $895 but zero clue if it works...

I am not sure.

How many psi of boost did you push it on the dyno. The magic number seems to be 24psi when everything goes to crap. Mine crap out
a whole lot sooner due to no close deck at all.

18 psi on 93 the sad thing about it my original built motor ran for 20k miles 2 years with the GTM kit at same boost levels. Open deck block of course that I'm still in possession of.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Just finished reading through this entire thread and the information from not only you, but other vets on this platform is invaluable! I can't thank you and others enough in providing real world application information and experience, as it is shaping my approach to FI for my Z. Thanks all for your continued feedback/experiences, as you have more than likely saved me $$ by pointing out what to gravitate to and away from.

MA-M recommended and set the boost for 93 at 12psi - Stock CR 11:1

That is what I set to also IF I ran 93. Only did that once. It was boring to me.

I ran this for 2 years 20k real life miles 10:1 compression. and didn't blow a headgasket click the links below. 2 out of 3 of my old graphs still show I beat the living snot out of the car plenty 160 mph plus pulls. This is with GTM Twin turbo kit the only other option at the time was Greddy 20g kit. I only took the car apart because I wanted more power.

http://www.the370z.com/forced-induct...-motor-tt.html

http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...et-bullet.html

:iagree:
Spooler has definitely been up front & transparent with his build from day 1 :tiphat:
A lotta other folks would break their chit & either not post or rarely heard from again :ugh2:
I’m not even boosted...or currently driving a Z at the moment, but lots of Rock-Solid information & real-time adventures (both Good & Bad) :tup:
Great Guy seeking a proper fix for the VQ’s head gasket issues!
:tiphat:

I hate being the dang guinea pig though. Can't stand it.

You are in the black hole of VQ death now. Same as me.

Yes brother and it's not fun at all.

Meanwhile, idiots on fb continue to talk about that guy with 800 hp on a stock block and how that proves it's safe.

He doesn’t run he car that hard. Besides that dyno run probably never been on that power level since then.

I'm well aware. My comment was sarcastic. I had some jackass argue with me that because the guy still hadn't blown his engine, that was a safe power level for a stock block.

The MyFace crowd. Something else to stay clear of.

Some people just can't hide their stupidity.

What I fear most is their ability to breed.

I just remove myself from the groups.

If only they didn't occasionally sell things I want to buy! In those cases, their stupidity is often profitable.

Darwinism hasn't kicked in yet. :shakes head:

I just bought a set of spl fuca for 400 bucks

Still researching on Darton Sleeves. Looked in the 350z forum. Yikes, those guys have had some issues. It appears that West Coast Darton is much better than East Coast Darton machine shop. That's not good. It is hit or miss on using Darton for the sleeve install. That's good to know.

To be fair, 800hp on a built block hasn’t proven any safer :rofl2:

:crying:

Spooler I had read pretty extensively on this and looked back at what the 350z
guys were doing to overcome headlift. From what I got they pretty much had it figured out and people got lazy with it when ARP started with L19 and 625 studs. Their solution was tapping the block for 1/2 or 14mm studs. L19/625s carried over into VQ37 and until recently there was no real need because in the early days of VQ37 boost what we call average power now was extraordinary.
Even now I sit and think about my first 509whp tune . Right now if I set my Map 1 low boost on 93 Octane I'm damned near at 600rwhp and I feel like I'm in one of those Walmart Mobility chairs. The development is coming at us in leaps and bounds and the funny part is we're actually learning by breaking stuff at an accelerated rate. Talk to your people and see what they say about machining larger head studs, old skool is known from time to time to solve new school problems.

That's the dang truth....

I remember a bunch of those stories been a member over there since 2003. I use to own a 2003 and a 2005 DE. I only supercharged my stock block. A lot of horror stories of sleeves dropping blown head gaskets dyno queens that disappear.
Pretty much the same crap we are dealing with VQHR37

Already talking. The problem comes by doing so it may crack the block between the main studs and the head studs. If we had a billet block, Yeap larger head studs for sure. Watch the video with Mark from Mazworx.

Squeeze alot of my reading was from back then. Whatever happened with the 1/2 inch studs. From my reading it looked like it was solving the problem. That and I read something about doing it in combination with the HKS head gaskets specifically.

Lol!! I can drive over and talk to Mark. It might take 2 minutes for him to remember me.

LMAO, we might need to take him in the back and work out the bill.

Solidus, I still have some questions I am trying to find answers too. I am taking my time on what to do.

Well find out everything you can because you know I'm gonna blow up your phone if I need the answer.