After reading all the tags, I don't blame you

That was you with all the wonderful tags. That was just a form of entertainment for me.

Think most of the tags are for him. :rofl2:

Yeap, Jar likes man shaft. LMAO

You creating me a GoFundME account for everyone to donate money to because I have saved them an exponential amount of cash. If I get
enough money in there I will continue to share everything. The new motor is expensive. Say, 10k in dontations. This will cover part of it.

I've already got one set up. Tigger donated $5 to the cause several years ago :icon17:

I will set one up (Gofundme) and keep the development going if you guys would like me too. The more that get's donated the more I can do.

ftfy

What da heck does that mean..... LOL

Fixed That For You

LOL, damn young whipper snappers...

All you gotta do is type in "jar" and there's really quite a large selection to choose from :roflpuke2:

https://i.pinimg.com/originals/dd/0b...cf1634e8bd.jpg

Kidding aside, when it does work out would your builder/machinist be able to provide the "Spooler 1000" short/long block service?

Yes, we have already talked about it. I get no money though. LOL

Alright, when the time comes you will be able to call or email in and ask for a Spooler 1000 build.

fifty Fixed it for you, also.

Well guys, I have 2 options I have been kicking around. There are drawbacks to both. I would be a fool not to consider all options. I am down to 2 options. One, you don't know about. So, here they are.

1.) Let Mazworx build my spare motor with Darton sleeves. He wants a virgin longblock to machine off of, which I have. The unknown is I only know of One person who had these in a 370z and that is Bullit (Mike). He had overheating issues with his car. I am not sure of the cause. So I will dive into uncharted territory if I go this route.

2.) Nick and George at SOHO have 2 cars up and running on their fix. I can't say what is in the motors. That is why I haven't mentioned them. All I can say is they made it past the dreaded 24psi failure point on the dyno and have been driven for a couple hundred miles. The only draw back is, I would like more miles on the cars. I would be a fool not to consider something that is working. Nick and George have always been straight up with me. They are good people.


I am still pondering which is the best way to go. I have plenty of time. If I go either way I will get a good result. This is a very tough decision.

Sleeves = 4K boat achor

Even if they are installed correctly they are going to move. Mine went out of round after 50 passes and 1500 street miles. Different motor (LS1) but still an aluminum block.

I cut a cylinder head in half to see how much material was between the water jackets and the ports. There is only about .080 of material that can be removed without weaken the integrity of the head. Not much material above each combustion chamber, definitely the weakest spot. Can only imagine what it looks like at 25psi.

Should have my block back in 6 weeks. I'm having additional supports machined in above each combustion chamber. I'll post some pics when I pick it up.

That's my contribution to the R+D instead of GoFundMe donations...lol

That is a different motor that you had trouble with and how was the block machined and with what. What sleeves were used? Was the block open deck? What was used to do the machine work for the sleeves? Not really relevant with what we are doing here. Please bring that data. No data, just means nothing. As far as the GOFUNDME, that was a joke.

easy... I was also joking about the GoFundMe

They were Darton MID wet sleeves that were installed in a stock 346ci open deck LS1. Yes different platform but a cast aluminum open deck block that looks very similar to VHR deck. If the VHR block can't support the closed deck modification how can it support a sleeve? Regardless it is a 4K crap shoot on any platform.

Do what you want, somebody is bound to try it. I hope you build something to hold 35psi, lol. I've seen plenty of other disasters on other platforms as well. Even if the sleeves are installed perfect and the block supported them, which is a big if, I'll bet the heads still lift. After seeing a head casting cut in half, I'm betting it is more of a cylinder head issue vs. a block issue.

To clarify the head I cut in half was a VHR head, not LS1. I'm building a turbo G37 so I'm here trying to learn and give advise from what I have researched. So I'm doing the same thing as what you are doing here. Except I'm going to try and do it with a 7at, so I have to figure that problem out too...ugh, lol

MID Sleeves are not the complete answer. Other things will be done also. It is a crap shot with the MID wet sleeve. No doubt about it. The machine work has to be perfect. If they leave anywhere for the sleeve to go, it will move. Mazworx has Darton MID wet sleeves up and running on the VQ platform. They have been running for a while. They also make Billet blocks. Real street is using their 2JZ billet block with MID wet sleeves. Guy from Canada has been drifting with one of their VQ35DE MID blocks for 3 years. No motor issues. If anybody can get it right, Mazworx can. I have found nobody else I can trust in that department. IF it wasn't for them and their success I wouldn't even consider it.

Good luck on the 7AT. 2 folks I know are either working on or thinking about that platform. It can be figured out.

The guy building my 7at is giving me a 2 year 24k warranty. Billet input shaft, clutches, VB with the proper tuning, triple disc converter and the warranty for 3kish. IHe is confident his build will hold even under boost. I'm not holding my breath..lol.

You may want to consider a billet Torque converter back housing so it won't flex. I have one on my diesel truck. Goerend transmission built it. It is also a triple disk.

The worst part is having no idea what you are gonna get until you fire it up. I checked my block over extremely well with a dial board gauge. The deck I couldn't get a .001 feeler gauge under a straight edge. Block literally looked perfect and turned out to be junk.

Whatever you decide, hope it works out. I know what it's like to build a solid motor with good parts and stare at the car on jack stands... so dumb.

Although I still try **** that isnt proven, lol. Like building a AWD, 72mm twin scroll rear mount, no intercooler (e85), with a 7at that every 5k unit breaks and a motor that no one can hold 25psi with.

This should end well...lmao

Not exactly sure what options I have with the converter yet, havent got that far. I did reach out to Ultimate Converter and they said they could cut it open and modify/change whatever I want. Ths tranny guy has a local that builds his converters that he swears by... not sure which route I'll go, but I will upgrade it as much as possible

Yeap, it is a pain in the butt. I am getting pissed to the point that the car might sit for a while. We shall see.

I emailed this place and asked a few questions. They told me their block would hold 20-25psi no problem. Zero clue if anyone has tried it, just passing info. Looks like the same concept as they RJM closed deck block to me, but just a guess.... I'm sure its a super top secret special procedure

https://cylindersupportsystem.com/

"GUARANTEE: If you crack a sleeve within 1yr at or under 500wHP 4cyl or 750wHP 6cyl . We will reimburse the full price of the CSS process. Specific engine blocks do not qualify for this HP rating guarantee. If an engine does not qualify, it will be posted next to the application in the list above."

I think Spooler was above this.

Yeah, I was at 825hp. The cost of the CSS process is nothing compared to having a motor built. Not much of a motor guarantee to me. So they will refund you 800 or 900 bucks out of a $16,000+ motor build not including labor. I can crap in a box for you and stamp a guarantee on it if you would like. So I am saying the guarantee means nothing to me.

Too early to tell. I know of a couple of cars using them with some additional stuff. It is the same concept as the RJM. CSS installs them with a CNC.

Someone had already posted this a couple of pages back.

Assuming 825 at the flywheel? What size twins are you running? Any headwork done?

http://www.the370z.com/3867933-post1459.html

824whp 21psi in 5th, post # 1459

824.x at the wheel, 946.x at the crank. Just JWT C2 exhaust cams listed in build. Don't need any headwork. Just little twins, Zonarotor turbo's equivalent to GT3076's.

Post #1459, lolol.... I knew it was in this thread somewhere, thanks for saving me a few days of searching...ha

Well I guess I'm gonna find out if a bigger combustion chamber does much. Haven't CC'd the heads yet, but I unshrouded the valves pretty good. I have time right now and did it myself, I would have never of pay for port work. I figured I needed all the help I can getting this thing to spool up in the rear.

Of course plan B(n20) will light it up real fast...lol. Then watch the firework show producing a giant cloud of tranny fluid and coolant, lol. Spooling it will be my last problem, for sure...

If you wait until 6:00min. in you will found out why our cylinder walls get torched when the headgasket lets go at full boost.

So you're going with 100 psi on the new build? Nice :tup:

LOL, you are a funny guy. We as a group are having a hard time keeping them together at 17-24psi. 100psi, not happening.