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Fast Intentions Stage 2 TT build by MA-Motorsports.

Originally Posted by Elmo370z A front splitter would cause drag. Front diffuser to create an area of low pressure. Reduce the opening to the radiator and IC to slow the

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Old 07-21-2020, 03:26 PM   #1 (permalink)
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A front splitter would cause drag. Front diffuser to create an area of low pressure. Reduce the opening to the radiator and IC to slow the air down and make it more efficient. Reason why all these big power 1/2 mile guys basically have the front end boxes off
It is all about what you want to accomplish. The air box is mostly about cooling efficiency. They will have a smaller opening than OEM. They will have short splitter and lowered in the front quite a bit to decrease drag. They will have undertray or a flat floor that also reduces drag due to less turbulence under the front of the car.

In road racing you are looking for mechanical grip and downforce to keep the car planted, there is a trade off on drag a top end. Straight line you want to reduce drag while optimizing mechanical grip, but you need enough downforce to keep the car planted.

Straight line is for fast cars, circuit racing is for fast drivers. To each their own, you know what I prefer!

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Old 07-21-2020, 09:13 PM   #2 (permalink)
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It is all about what you want to accomplish. The air box is mostly about cooling efficiency. They will have a smaller opening than OEM. They will have short splitter and lowered in the front quite a bit to decrease drag. They will have undertray or a flat floor that also reduces drag due to less turbulence under the front of the car.

In road racing you are looking for mechanical grip and downforce to keep the car planted, there is a trade off on drag a top end. Straight line you want to reduce drag while optimizing mechanical grip, but you need enough downforce to keep the car planted.

Straight line is for fast cars, circuit racing is for fast drivers. To each their own, you know what I prefer!

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Yup I agree. Spooler isn’t in it to track the car around corners.
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Old 07-21-2020, 04:27 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I have never had issues with lift even at 160 and stock setup. Well the stock undertray came unbuttoned that is. Anyway, the only thing was that I was lower on Teng lowering springs. I have seen CFD rendering and the Nismo aero stops working at about 90 to 100mph and you start getting lift from that point. Lowering the car 1" significantly decreases drag and lift but it will still be a factor without a front splitter and removing area of high pressure. The hood vents remove the highest area of high pressure, the next place is the fenders. There is a reason all racecars have a way to remove high pressure from the wheel wells.

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Another thing is I may have caused my own problems via adding brake ducts, Zspeed undertray, air direction panels that were removed due to TT install, and Tracspec vents. It may be due the increase in TQ causing more weight transfer. I don't know and that is what I am trying to figure out.
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Old 07-21-2020, 01:40 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Still kicking around ideas. I can lower the front some more. That may be the way to go. I am at 1/8in. rake right now. Maybe I go to a 1/4in. rake.

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Old 07-21-2020, 02:51 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Whatever I do will not be noticeable. I will still look like stock. I don't need any unwanted attention.
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Old 07-21-2020, 04:36 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I will give you an example of my experience. When I lost the first rectangular panel on the under tray that covers the 3 plastic rivets I could tell on the interstate that something was wrong and it definitely affected the aero.
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Old 07-22-2020, 04:09 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Car is coming right on along. I need this good news with everything else going on in my life. I am ready to hear her running again without coolant coming out the exhaust. Exciting times are on the way. This boost junkie needs his fix.
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Old 07-22-2020, 05:26 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Car will be tuned on Ignite Red (E90) this time and we will crank the boost up to 24 psi. That is as far as I am willing to push the stock plastic intake. I know some folks have ran 26 psi but I just don't have that kind of luck. If I had a metal one I could turn it up to 30 psi with no issues.
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Old 07-23-2020, 12:45 PM   #9 (permalink)
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New engine and trans is back in the car.
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Old 07-23-2020, 01:37 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Number 1 question asked by most everyone.

"Have you taken the engine apart to see what happened?"

The answer to that is no. No need to take it apart until I get ready to fix it. Losing parts scattered all over the place due to time is not something I enjoy. I have put many messes back together. I won't be making one of those.
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Old 07-23-2020, 04:34 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Car is running and new engine has been broke in. Next up, scheduling for the tune. Not sure how long that will take.
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Old 07-23-2020, 10:59 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Great news back!! (Sorry spooler for jacking your thread, mines years old and not nearly as great of a back and forth as this, hope you don’t mind)

So the LSD is fine, Did confirm we didn’t change out the stub axles BUT what happened (as far as I understand it) was the damn snap clip came off on the stub axles. This caused it to pop out of place resulting in my axles not having a connection. SO, looking for new clips but also going to put the correct stub axles with their property snap clips in there, anybody know how we find this? Just contact OSGiken or is there a Specific measurement we look at? Also! Might as well install the diff cooler while we are at it, z1? Or another recommended brand.
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Old 07-23-2020, 11:07 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Great news back!! (Sorry spooler for jacking your thread, mines years old and not nearly as great of a back and forth as this, hope you don’t mind)

So the LSD is fine, Did confirm we didn’t change out the stub axles BUT what happened (as far as I understand it) was the damn snap clip came off on the stub axles. This caused it to pop out of place resulting in my axles not having a connection. SO, looking for new clips but also going to put the correct stub axles with their property snap clips in there, anybody know how we find this? Just contact OSGiken or is there a Specific measurement we look at? Also! Might as well install the diff cooler while we are at it, z1? Or another recommended brand.
New stub axles should have a C-clip on them. Mine did. You need both of them?

Find someone who has changed their stub axles and see if they are willing to give up the C-clips. I would give you mind, but I had to use it on the new stud axle. I broke it. Also, contact Z1 to see if they have them. Nissan might have them too. Check a dealer. Bring donuts for the parts guys.
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Old 07-23-2020, 11:12 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Great news back!! (Sorry spooler for jacking your thread, mines years old and not nearly as great of a back and forth as this, hope you don’t mind)

So the LSD is fine, Did confirm we didn’t change out the stub axles BUT what happened (as far as I understand it) was the damn snap clip came off on the stub axles. This caused it to pop out of place resulting in my axles not having a connection. SO, looking for new clips but also going to put the correct stub axles with their property snap clips in there, anybody know how we find this? Just contact OSGiken or is there a Specific measurement we look at? Also! Might as well install the diff cooler while we are at it, z1? Or another recommended brand.
Contact Z1. They will know what stub axles you need and get you a new C clip. As far as the diff cooler, Get with MA-Motorsports. Jon is off tomorrow. Brian is holding down the fort.
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Old 07-24-2020, 12:51 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Contact Z1. They will know what stub axles you need and get you a new C clip. As far as the diff cooler, Get with MA-Motorsports. Jon is off tomorrow. Brian is holding down the fort.
Hell yes, thanks fellas, I knew I’d be pointed in the right direction here!
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