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Originally Posted by JARblue You lost a pulley so you just left it off and routed the belt differently? Talk about MacGyvering it lol This “build” just keeps getting better.
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#1 (permalink) |
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Track Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 960
Drives: 2016 Nissan PW 370Z
Rep Power: 34537 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
This “build” just keeps getting better.
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'16 Pearl White Sport | Stillen Gen. 3 | Motordyne ART | Motordyne Shockwave | ZSpeed | Powertrix | EVO-R | Aeroworkz | Nismo | Z1 | EcuTek | Tuned by Seb @ SpecialtyZ |
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#2 (permalink) | |
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Track Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: California
Posts: 635
Drives: 2009-7AT-Base-Coup
Rep Power: 4837 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Quote:
And yes, I didn't replace it because two people told me I didn't need to. Two people I trust...turns out that not replacing it is highly likely why my boost is not making boost lol. This time it isn't completely my fault even when I told them I wanted to replace it, they were like no need because /as long as the tension is there/ then it's okay. 9 months later, no. -_-
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|| ECUTEK (Eugene) || A2A || IPP Built Motor Stage IV Spec || RJM Short Block || Quaife LSD || KW V3 || Stillen-Exhaust || 11.0.1 CR || 928 Full Rebuild || CPZ 34 Row Oil Cooler || |
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#3 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Austin, TX
Age: 45
Posts: 36,450
Drives: 11 Z34, 98 E36 M3
Rep Power: 2684442 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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![]() 2011 370Z 6MT Sport Gun Metallic | ARC | CJM | Ecutek | FI | Fujimura | R2C | SPL | Stillen | TWM | Z1 | ZSpeed | |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Track Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: California
Posts: 635
Drives: 2009-7AT-Base-Coup
Rep Power: 4837 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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|| ECUTEK (Eugene) || A2A || IPP Built Motor Stage IV Spec || RJM Short Block || Quaife LSD || KW V3 || Stillen-Exhaust || 11.0.1 CR || 928 Full Rebuild || CPZ 34 Row Oil Cooler || |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Base Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: America
Posts: 16
Drives: 2016 MT 370z
Rep Power: 500 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I took a very long time to read this entire thread...and I only have but a few words for you:
Please listen to others' advice, you seem to make the same mistakes over and over It sounds like you are almost done fixing your car...? Assuming you did not leave any critical detail out in the thread as to what happened in the past to it, so I'd say best of luck to you and I hope one day you will learn your lessons ^^ I'd love to one day see you complete your build though, it would be really cool to see |
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#6 (permalink) | |
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Track Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: California
Posts: 635
Drives: 2009-7AT-Base-Coup
Rep Power: 4837 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Quote:
__________________
|| ECUTEK (Eugene) || A2A || IPP Built Motor Stage IV Spec || RJM Short Block || Quaife LSD || KW V3 || Stillen-Exhaust || 11.0.1 CR || 928 Full Rebuild || CPZ 34 Row Oil Cooler || |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Track Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: California
Posts: 635
Drives: 2009-7AT-Base-Coup
Rep Power: 4837 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Update:
- Replaced Serpentine belt with K071040 - Replaced OEM missing idler pulley from 9 months ago (2:00 position from crank pulley) - Replaced OEM grooved idler pulley on tensioner bracket (was a smooth idler pulley before) - Replaced Engine oil with fresh 0w-40 Amsoil Signature series sold at a local shop 10 minutes away from me - Replaced Engine coolant (because timing cover change required this also) - Replaced supercharger belt with Gates K080220RPM (Car made 13.3 PSI with this belt), then the serpentine belt was shredded due to a slight misalignment of an aftermarket gates pulley that I first bought BEFORE putting in OEM ribbed idler pulley on the tensioner bracket, then replaced that aftermarket gates pulley with the OEM grooved idler pulley as stated above as well as replacing the supercharger belt with the previous non-RPM one, then made 12.2 PSI. - Replaced Timing Cover because previous one had a couple minor oil leaks as well as bad threads for a few of the spots where pulleys go into (including the idler pulley spot that fell out in February of this year) - In the process of the belts shredding, it apparently ate up and destroyed the wiring for one of my fans on the radiator, so only one of the fans work now, so I'm looking into having either that wiring replaced or the entire fan assembly replaced just so I can have a working correct wiring to have both fans working properly) - Car is finally running how it should be (minus the radiator fan wiring that got destroyed). Finally, for the first time in 2 years, I have a working 370z that is making what it should be with the setup that it has currently (3.0" Direct SC pulley, 3.2" Jackshaft SC sided pulley, and 9 PSI (2.87" pulley) on the serpentine jackshaft side) I couldn't believe it! - I decided to finally take everyone's advice and stop bringing it to different random shops around my area, and am letting the person who has the only GTR Twin Turbo setup on his G37 work on my car (personal friend of mine in the bay area, CA) and it guess what? I'm finally seeing positive results after taking the advice people have been telling me for the last 2 years! lol. I'm really happy with my car finally as it's running how it should be (minus the radiator fan issue but that is an easy fix). Some good news for once on this thread from me! There are many people I'd like to thank (too many to list) that have supported me throughout this entire time despite me being so stubborn and making dumb decisions left and right. A lot of people on this forums + facebook groups. Couldn't have made it this far without you all! So thank you!! I hope to keep updating this thread with only positive, cool things. And not anymore negative, bad problems. =)
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|| ECUTEK (Eugene) || A2A || IPP Built Motor Stage IV Spec || RJM Short Block || Quaife LSD || KW V3 || Stillen-Exhaust || 11.0.1 CR || 928 Full Rebuild || CPZ 34 Row Oil Cooler || |
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#8 (permalink) | |
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Base Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: America
Posts: 16
Drives: 2016 MT 370z
Rep Power: 500 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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#9 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Shawnee KS
Posts: 5,698
Drives: 15 Magma Red 6MT
Rep Power: 2684378 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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2015 Magma Red 6MT Sport Tech/2012 Fairlady MB 6MT Base (RIP 08032018)https://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/370Z/Coupe/
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#10 (permalink) |
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Track Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: California
Posts: 635
Drives: 2009-7AT-Base-Coup
Rep Power: 4837 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Update: (Last safety upgrade of 2019 - 2020, I swear!)
Now that my vehicle is running how it's supposed to be, I decided it's finally time to upgrade the fuel system and components. Towards the end of December, I will be having installed on the vehicle the following: (1) CJM S1-S Return Fuel System (No Rails, because I don't need them at the moment) (2) Zeitronix ECA-2 Flex Fuel Kit & Gauge (3) CJM Top Billet Hat to replace the plastic hat that we all know fails at some point (4) 525lph Walbro Fuel Pump (5) Hardwire (Relay Kit) for the 525lph Walbro Fuel Pump so that the stock wires do not melt due to this running much hotter! Before, I had no need for a bigger fuel pump / upgrade in fuel system because my vehicle was only running 6.5 - 7.5 psi max. At the same time, I had the stock 255lph walbro fuel pump from the stock Stillen Kit and had only upgraded to 1050x IDs. Now, I'd like to finally make the swap to E85 and will be doing so at the end of December when my friend is able to help with the install (The only one that's been fixing all the issues that other shops and people have caused on my car). And yes, he will be the only one touching my car from now on when it comes to installs and repairs. To help myself from spending money in 2020, I asked him to refuse every request no matter what regarding upgrading my car, and since he is the only person that I'll allow work on my car...well I'm kind of stuck at that point! Which is a good thing for me xD I also told him to please only work on my car if its any of the following: (1) Safety hardware change on the car where, if I don't have it, it is unsafe to drive out of my garage / street. (2) Maintenance (If anything breaks down that causes the car to not run properly anymore as it should) Any other reason, I told him to refuse it! So I can help myself to pay things off in 2020 while enjoying the vehicle being run as it should without any risks. And no, I do not drive it hard every single time, once in a while I will. Just knowing that it is capable of going up to X WHP and Y WTQ and Z PSI assuming I wanted to push it, is good enough for me! Before, it was never running how it should be as you all know, but now it is and that's all I really wanted -- and that's what I finally got! One of the main reasons why I'm doing the Fuel Upgrades is because now my car is making 12 - 13 PSI (almost double what I was maxing out in the last 9 months of driving it), so therefore I'm not trying to explode my block due to lack of fuel and incorrect AFR's so, to compensate it, I upgrade the fuel components for the rare time(s) I will push it to the max for fun once in a while! I have already budgeted everything out in 2020 and how I will pay things off each throughout the entire 12 months. So I'm ready to go! This is assuming, of course, nothing unfortunate occurs and something goes right in my car-journey and physical-life for once! ================================================== =============================================== ================================================== =============================================== ================================================== =============================================== For Timeline & Interest Purposes, this will be my current full build list from now until the end of 2020 || ECUTEK; SPEED DENSITY || TopGunz Air-to-Air Supercharger Kit || IPP Built Motor Stage IV Spec || RJM Closed Deck Short Block || Quaife LSD || KW V3 Coilovers || Stillen-Exhaust || 11.0.1 CR || V3-Ti Centrifugal Supercharger || Concept Z Performance 34 Row Oil Cooler || AAM Oil Spacer || 1050x ID || Michelin PS4S, 305-30-19 Rear, 275-35-19 Front || Polyurethane Transmission Mount || CJM S1-S Return Fuel System (No Rails) || CJM Billet Fuel Top Hat || CJM Hardwire Relay || E85 (Flex Fuel) || Zeitronix ECA-2 Flex Fuel Sensor Kit + Gauge || 3.0" SC Direct Pulley - 3.2" Jackshaft SC Pulley - 2.87" Jackshaft Serpentine Pulley || 13.3 PSI || K080220RPM SC Belt || K071040 Serpentine Belt || 5.5" ATI Super Dampener Crank Pulley || -- PS: The only thing I may buy is Topgunz new development of the air filter, because I absolutely hate removing this current K&N air filter, but that's only if I need to! XD --
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|| ECUTEK (Eugene) || A2A || IPP Built Motor Stage IV Spec || RJM Short Block || Quaife LSD || KW V3 || Stillen-Exhaust || 11.0.1 CR || 928 Full Rebuild || CPZ 34 Row Oil Cooler || Last edited by cupcakez; 11-27-2019 at 12:19 PM. |
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#11 (permalink) | |
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Base Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Dominican Republic
Posts: 52
Drives: 370z Basic auto 2009
Rep Power: 12 ![]() |
Quote:
![]() ![]() Enviado desde mi CLT-L29 mediante Tapatalk |
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#12 (permalink) | |
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Track Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: California
Posts: 635
Drives: 2009-7AT-Base-Coup
Rep Power: 4837 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Quote:
![]() Did you mean to do the fuel upgrades is a best way to go about the car to run safely with higher power Or...You mean to buy your car instead / buy a car that's already upgraded or were you meaning something else? Haha, not sure what you meant honestly! My engine isn't stock but if it was stock I'd take off the air filter and put in a turbo guard like most people do to make more power. Just my block isn't worth risking to take off the air filter for a turbo guard or anything for more power / PSI. Also yeah, I'm also 7 AT, so I'm realistically probably never going to reach 700 RWHP on a dyno sheet or any logged numbers since, I never want to risk my block! But, knowing that if I take off the air filter, it would reach nearly 700 rwhp would be good enough for me. Potential to drive it if I take something off versus not being able to reach that are two different things for me xD But yeah, appreciate the post and input!!
__________________
|| ECUTEK (Eugene) || A2A || IPP Built Motor Stage IV Spec || RJM Short Block || Quaife LSD || KW V3 || Stillen-Exhaust || 11.0.1 CR || 928 Full Rebuild || CPZ 34 Row Oil Cooler || |
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#13 (permalink) | |
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Base Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Dominican Republic
Posts: 52
Drives: 370z Basic auto 2009
Rep Power: 12 ![]() |
Quote:
Enviado desde mi CLT-L29 mediante Tapatalk |
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#14 (permalink) | |
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Track Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: California
Posts: 635
Drives: 2009-7AT-Base-Coup
Rep Power: 4837 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Quote:
I can always add the rails later on as well, so that's a good peace of mind to know. So I decided to get the 525lph, CJM-S1-S, Hardwire Relay Kit so the OEM wires don't melt and the billet hat so that I don't have to worry about the plastic hat melting / breaking / failing on me later on. Appreciate the feedback and support!
__________________
|| ECUTEK (Eugene) || A2A || IPP Built Motor Stage IV Spec || RJM Short Block || Quaife LSD || KW V3 || Stillen-Exhaust || 11.0.1 CR || 928 Full Rebuild || CPZ 34 Row Oil Cooler || |
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