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Originally Posted by "Z"en Looking good. There seems to be no belt dust. Check if there is leak from the intake pipes, silicone hoses, gaskets, and/or valve. I'm always interested

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Old 10-09-2019, 08:05 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Looking good. There seems to be no belt dust. Check if there is leak from the intake pipes, silicone hoses, gaskets, and/or valve. I'm always interested in the design and actual performance of the E370, especially its 2-1 Y section where there seems to be only one single 3-3.25" pipe as the merge collector. I think it does help advance the scavenging effect but dunno if this will cause back pressure to hinder CFM of big power. From their web info, it seems the exhaust is capable of supporting 700-hp output. Let us know the dyno results and type of fuel you use when you have them (if possible). Guess this is the only way to justify the hypothesis of the restriction (whether it does flow freely or not).
I was planning on doing the dyno next week, the local shop has an opening, however I did a small 4th gear pull and it feels like my poor stock clutch is already trying to slip. I need to take care of that first unfortunately, it would just be a waste of money if it slips while on the dyno. I did around 4 data logged full throttle pulls today, and checked around the belts and there is zero rubber/belt dust anywhere that I could see. The boost pressure is seemingly inconsistent, I really don't trust this MAP sensor so I'm ordering a boost gauge now. According to the MAP sensor I hit 0.80 bar (11.6psi) at anywhere from 6,300 to 6,600 rpm. The last pull I did peaked at 0.90 bar (13psi) at 6,800 before again, falling off to around 0.80 bar by redline.
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Old 10-09-2019, 08:23 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Alright guys, car just had everything installed, NO TUNE has been uploaded yet.
MAFS and throttle bodies are connected correctly. My Tech found similar issues here online and thought a proper tune being uploaded or a recalibration of throttle bodies will correct, but tuner says it won’t. You guys have any ideas?

Thanks!
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Old 10-09-2019, 11:33 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Senna-F1 View Post
Alright guys, car just had everything installed, NO TUNE has been uploaded yet.
MAFS and throttle bodies are connected correctly. My Tech found similar issues here online and thought a proper tune being uploaded or a recalibration of throttle bodies will correct, but tuner says it won’t. You guys have any ideas?

Thanks!
Are these OEM MAFs, TBs, wires, cables, and connectors? Had they cleaned before install and startup? Which extension cables are you using? I'd ask my mechanic to check these first, followed by checking the TPS. Make sure your using the OEM wires, connectors, and the Stillen Gen2 extension cables. As long as they are fully functional, I see no reason the TBs can't be calibrated through the learning process.
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Old 10-10-2019, 11:00 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Senna-F1 View Post
Alright guys, car just had everything installed, NO TUNE has been uploaded yet.
MAFS and throttle bodies are connected correctly. My Tech found similar issues here online and thought a proper tune being uploaded or a recalibration of throttle bodies will correct, but tuner says it won’t. You guys have any ideas?

Thanks!
So we decided to upload tune anyway to see if it would get rid of these codes, and it did. Just FYI for future searches.
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Old 10-09-2019, 11:53 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by DrBacon View Post
I was planning on doing the dyno next week, the local shop has an opening, however I did a small 4th gear pull and it feels like my poor stock clutch is already trying to slip. I need to take care of that first unfortunately, it would just be a waste of money if it slips while on the dyno. I did around 4 data logged full throttle pulls today, and checked around the belts and there is zero rubber/belt dust anywhere that I could see. The boost pressure is seemingly inconsistent, I really don't trust this MAP sensor so I'm ordering a boost gauge now. According to the MAP sensor I hit 0.80 bar (11.6psi) at anywhere from 6,300 to 6,600 rpm. The last pull I did peaked at 0.90 bar (13psi) at 6,800 before again, falling off to around 0.80 bar by redline.
Sounds like a plan. Keep us posted if possible. I'd still suggest you have an EGT gauge and sensor installed. Will help you keep your engine and exhaust in check under WOT.
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Old 10-11-2019, 05:16 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Sounds like a plan. Keep us posted if possible. I'd still suggest you have an EGT gauge and sensor installed. Will help you keep your engine and exhaust in check under WOT.
I think the drop in boost at high rpms is from the supercharger side belt slipping. I ran my hand under under the belts and on serpentine side it's clean, but once I touch that supercharger side belt my hand is covered in black dust which I assume isn't normal and due to it slipping. I can tighten that tensioner, which looks like a real pain in the *** to get to while still in the car, however if it's already making 13psi with belt slip I really don't want to know what it will do once it's tightened. Boost gauge arrives next week and I should be able to verify with that the MAP sensor readings just to make sure. Also new clutch is going in next week as well
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Old 10-11-2019, 05:35 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I think the drop in boost at high rpms is from the supercharger side belt slipping. I ran my hand under under the belts and on serpentine side it's clean, but once I touch that supercharger side belt my hand is covered in black dust which I assume isn't normal and due to it slipping. I can tighten that tensioner, which looks like a real pain in the *** to get to while still in the car, however if it's already making 13psi with belt slip I really don't want to know what it will do once it's tightened. Boost gauge arrives next week and I should be able to verify with that the MAP sensor readings just to make sure. Also new clutch is going in next week as well
Chances are it isn't going to make any more boost, it'll just make 13 psi all the way to redline. Keep an eye on the supercharger side and see if you start to get dust build up around the pulleys and bracket.
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Old 10-11-2019, 08:36 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Chances are it isn't going to make any more boost, it'll just make 13 psi all the way to redline. Keep an eye on the supercharger side and see if you start to get dust build up around the pulleys and bracket.
There's definitely belt dust around on the backside. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought centrifugal superchargers built boost linearly to RPM unless there's a restriction. I suppose that filter is a pretty heavy restriction though. I'm going to attempt to tighten that belt tomorrow. Any idea on how tight it should be? I guess until it stops slipping, however there's already only a very, very small amount of movement when I push on the belt as is.

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Old 10-11-2019, 08:57 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by DrBacon View Post
There's definitely belt dust around on the backside. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought centrifugal superchargers built boost linearly to RPM unless there's a restriction. I suppose that filter is a pretty heavy restriction though. I'm going to attempt to tighten that belt tomorrow. Any idea on how tight it should be? I guess until it stops slipping, however there's already only a very, very small amount of movement when I push on the belt as is.

That's a pretty significant amount of dust. Yep, the filter is a pretty big restriction. Even with a turbo guard screen, my car made 16.4 psi @7400 rpm. Boost started falling off before redline and I had zero belt slip. I hope someone else chimes in on belt tension. I believe somewhere in this thread there's an explanation. I believe it's based on how much you can twist the belt in the top section between the sc pulley and jackshaft pulley.
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Old 10-12-2019, 12:06 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by DrBacon View Post
There's definitely belt dust around on the backside. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought centrifugal superchargers built boost linearly to RPM unless there's a restriction. I suppose that filter is a pretty heavy restriction though. I'm going to attempt to tighten that belt tomorrow. Any idea on how tight it should be? I guess until it stops slipping, however there's already only a very, very small amount of movement when I push on the belt as is.

Belt slip is what I expected in the beginning, although it is not visible in the first attached pic you showed to us (the surface of the backside is shielded). Try to tighten the belt as tight as possible until it is foiled in any attempt to flip it. I've had a hard time in dealing with my friend's build (which was mainly built by me, my mechanic, and my tuner) of the 928 wheel and filter. We found belt dust around the bracket and even used heat gun to check these two belts.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BxOYNS6n...=1efdk158o36mp
https://www.instagram.com/p/BxUEwWjF...d=nccm677eqi3i
We used a larger lower idler custom one off and RPM belt on the supercharger side to solve it. He's having the similar setup on the serpentine side as yours.
https://www.instagram.com/p/ByDHTcPA...d=1cjlg185ac4b
or
https://www.instagram.com/p/Bx5Al-in...=1ukdsx8trl0zy

Back to your problem, I think the Omni MAP sensor shouldn't be that fragile unless it was damaged during installing it. And yes the filter is indeed a restriction. You'll loose at least 3 psi roughly when putting the filter on. Your system will be more susceptible to the belt slip with the filter on, like you wear a mask to breath. You will have to breath (spin it) harder and that's exactly the case your blower is undergoing. I personally think it's barely possible to achieve more than 15ish psi if your using the filter along with the poor little V3 Sci/Si trims of the 8-rib drive pulley. Will be busy dealing with belt slip in addition to the supercharger oil potentially coming out of the head unit. Try to use 36225 lower idler if you still see the dust after every effort you have done to tighten the supercharger belt. I'm assuming your using the Gates 7pk2642 belt on the serpentine side. I'd not suggest you consider using the RPM belt if your running the stock self-lubricated Vortech internals and the current pulley combination (shouldn't be needed to use the RPM belt right now).
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Last edited by "Z"en; 10-12-2019 at 05:13 AM.
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Old 10-12-2019, 04:49 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I made a quick video showing the current belt tension. I have a friend who has a vortech 350z and he said my belt is already much tighter than his is. I haven't tightened the belt yet. Curious to see how this compares https://youtu.be/MWe5_cB3SBc
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