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Another BP turbo build

Thought I would bring this post from my journal over here as I'll be part of the FI crowd soon. After lots of thought I've finally decided the Z will

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Old 04-28-2017, 10:49 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Another BP turbo build

Thought I would bring this post from my journal over here as I'll be part of the FI crowd soon.

After lots of thought I've finally decided the Z will be getting boosted
She will continue to be my daily driver so I've got my fingers crossed everything goes smoothly.

For any of you with experience boosting the Z my ears are wide to all thoughts & experiences, any advice is much appreciated. Expecting a bit of an adventure here but the more I know going in the better. So, onto my parts list.

Updated: 07/25/17
Motor is staying stock (for now)
BP Single Turbo kit - COMP 800HP twin-scroll, TBB, etc.
HKS EVC-6 Boost Controller
GaleForce Premium A-Pillar
INNOVATE Boost / Wideband Gauge
AEM Wideband
CSF triple pass Radiator
Z1 34 row Oil Cooler
OS Giken GT Twin Disk Clutch
RJM Adjustable Pedal
ZSpeed CMAK CSC Delete *** Making an attempt to install the kit around this ***
Ecutek Software
PTP Lava Turbo bag
ARK Grip V2
Daily Tires: Michelin PS4S
Powder Coat going on IC piping
Heat wrapped hot side piping

As far as the tune I am on Ecutek already & will just need to hop on the dyno for a retune. Here is what I'm thinking as far as my maps are concerned;
At least until I work up some funds for an engine re-build I'm thinking of starting with something like a 6psi waste gate spring in. While I want to believe that I will control myself, I'm not so sure I can. If I am correct having the 6psi spring paired with the EBC should give me up to 12pounds of boost which should be PLENTY for now.
Again she's the daily driver so looking for conservative tune as far as timing, etc. Depending on what type of numbers we are seeing on the dyno may decide to go a little less conservative.
TUNE 1: SMOKEY TIRE MODE
Med or High boost – NO Traction Control (TC)
TUNE 2: TRAVEL / DAILY
Low boost (~6psi) – Ecutek TC
[TUNE W/NO BOOST CONTROLER??? This will allow me to have a safe map to use if the BC shoots the ****? Talk to Frank.]
TUNE 3: DAILY
Med boost (~8psi) – Ecutek TC
TUNE 4: RACE
High boost (~10-12psi) – Ecutek TC

Will follow up with updates! Goodies are showing up daily


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Old 04-28-2017, 10:56 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Don't just rely on ceramic coating on hot parts. Coat and then wrap, or just use wrap.
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Old 04-28-2017, 11:04 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Be mindful of your install and get a good tune, should be great for a DD. =)
It's always a good idea to have a beater though... once you DIY a turbo kit you will always tinker =)

Edit: Make sure your tuner has experience with boosted Zs... There are a lot of tuners that can tune an NA Z without blowing it up... The pool who can do the same with a boosted car is much smaller.

Edit#2: I see you're in baltimore(and referred to Frank) so I assume you are getting tuned at Hill's Garage... AFAIK they do have experience with boosted Z's and I have only heard good things.
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You've got a twin turbo sound system, I think you met your audio goals.

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Old 04-28-2017, 11:09 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Also, get some Thermotec sleeve for the wastegate lines. If you melt those, your car will be insanely fast for a few seconds, and then make a very expensive noise.
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Old 04-28-2017, 11:11 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Also, get some Thermotec sleeve for the wastegate lines. If you melt those, your car will be insanely fast for a few seconds, and then make a very expensive noise.
Channeling your inner solidus, eh?
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You've got a twin turbo sound system, I think you met your audio goals.
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Old 04-28-2017, 11:13 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Yeah, he had that really bite him in the ***. That's modifying cars for you - spend an extra $250 early in the build, or another $10k later.
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Old 04-28-2017, 11:19 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Yeah, he had that really bite him in the ***. That's modifying cars for you - spend an extra $250 early in the build, or another $10k later.
For sure. Super nice guy, btw.... helped me test my laser jammers. Best cop on the forum!

Overall, it's a good idea to go completely overboard with heat protection. My engine compartment is so crinkly/shiny with the stuff that it looks like it's covered in aluminum foil to keep the aliens/government from reading its thoughts.

I do wonder about the turbo blanket though. Highly effective in keeping the heat from the turbine from damaging other things, but Corky Bell believe's that they significantly reduce the life of the turbo itself. This may be different in the case of the COMP since the bearings are ceramic and can handle a lot of heat... Just some food for thought. OP, I am not saying you should go without it... That is another thing solidus found out the hard way when the heat from his turbine melted his engine wiring harness. That guy has had some bad luck.
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Old 04-28-2017, 11:24 AM   #8 (permalink)
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CB is always right about everything, but I'd rather have to rebuild a turbo than rewire a car. Also, his definition of hard use and mine are miles apart. I'm sure it does reduce turbo life, but on a street car where you blast through a few gears and then cruise I'll bet it's negligible. I had the turbo wrapped on my old STI for a long time, and never had any issues. I would bag a water-cooled turbo in a heartbeat. An old oil-cooled one, not so much.
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Old 04-28-2017, 11:27 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Don't just rely on ceramic coating on hot parts. Coat and then wrap, or just use wrap.
Indeed, Sasha just told me the same thing. Original I thought ceramic coating would do the job. Think I will just be wrapping it

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Also, get some Thermotec sleeve for the wastegate lines. If you melt those, your car will be insanely fast for a few seconds, and then make a very expensive noise.
Well said lol. This is a perfect example of those little things I was looking to find out BEFORE the install. Many thanks to you sir
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Old 04-28-2017, 11:28 AM   #10 (permalink)
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CB is always right about everything, but I'd rather have to rebuild a turbo than rewire a car. Also, his definition of hard use and mine are miles apart. I'm sure it does reduce turbo life, but on a street car where you blast through a few gears and then cruise I'll bet it's negligible. I had the turbo wrapped on my old STI for a long time, and never had any issues. I would bag a water-cooled turbo in a heartbeat. An old oil-cooled one, not so much.
Right on... I still think about doing it for mine and was getting ready to order a pair when I saw Bell's commentary. Are your twins currently snuggied?

OP - sorry for the hijack... but all the best discussion happens in FI subforum build threads =)
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You've got a twin turbo sound system, I think you met your audio goals.
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Old 04-28-2017, 11:29 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Nope, there's not a whole lot of room under the heat shields. They're coated, and everything aft is now wrapped. I had just coated stuff, and when I had my clutch replaced things were starting to get a little crispy.
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Old 04-28-2017, 11:31 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Nope, there's not a whole lot of room under the heat shields. They're coated, and everything aft is now wrapped. I had just coated stuff, and when I had my clutch replaced things were starting to get a little crispy.
How many miles between tender and crispy? Last time I inspected things looked good, but it had only been 10k miles.
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Old 04-28-2017, 11:33 AM   #13 (permalink)
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20k-ish maybe?
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Old 04-28-2017, 11:35 AM   #14 (permalink)
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20k-ish maybe?
Thanks... I will keep an eye on it. Any quantifiable or even feel-only results on the ceramic coating? My hotsides are still beautiful bare burnt orange cast iron.
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You've got a twin turbo sound system, I think you met your audio goals.
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Old 04-28-2017, 11:37 AM   #15 (permalink)
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It's hard to tell with as hot as these run. It might be cooler. It might also just look cooler since everything's black. The placebo effect is still an effect, dammit.
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