How many have you have had issues from a turbo/supercharger?

Jayhovah · 04-10-2017, 10:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SouthArk370Z

If you are the least bit worried about reliability, up-time, etc, adding FI is not the way to go. If you are willing to sacrifice those things to increase your Smiles Per Gallon, I say go for it.

Installation is seldom a straight-forward affair - be prepared to spend 2 to 3 times what your original estimate is. And it's definitely not a job for the average weekend mechanic - don't forget to budget for labor. Make sure you have the resources to do the extra maintenance and fix what breaks. It helps to have a second vehicle.

All of this is good advice. I hope I didn't make it sound too simple...

I DIYed my install with the help of my brother in law and we are just weekend mechanics.. but because we weren't skilled that install took more than two weeks working 10+hours a day on it.. we are also both engineers so we have a knack for thinking things out and spotting potential for problems. It helped that I bought a kit that can be installed without pulling the motor, and my brother in law has a lift in his garage... I went halfway across the country to do the install in his garage with his help and then be able to get the car tuned at a known good VQ tuner (JTRAN) that was local to him.

I also have a second vehicle (beater ford ranger) for when I am working on the Z, which does happen as I continue to add preventative mods like upgraded diff bushings, catch cans, etc.... if you are the type to DIY a turbo kit you'll certainly keep tinkering and improving. I don't DD my Z because it's my only vehicle... I DD it because I want to drive it every day.

If you are going to farm the work out... as SouthArk has said the price and time for the labor can start creeping on you. If I was going to a shop, I would only go to one of the handful of well known Z shops in the country so I could be confident they'll understand the scope of the project and be realistic with me about the timeline and budget. Even though it took me so many days to install my kit the first time, we think we could probably install one now 5 or 6 days... If we did it often, maybe 4. Find a shop that regularly builds these things.

Hotrodz · 04-10-2017, 11:16 PM

I have been boosted for a little over three years and 30k miles and the stuff I chase is really not out of proportion with an NA Z that gets used in the same way I use mine. I am just over 50k miles total on my engine and the compression is still very good...somewhere between 46 and 48 psi on all cylinders. If you stay around 600whp or less and 550 ft/lbs/tq you should be fine for a long time. Just make sure the kit is installed right and you use a top tier tuner. Tuning is everything!!!

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

Chuck33079 · 04-11-2017, 08:04 AM

These guys have it right. It's not that a boosted Z can't be reliable, it's just that it requires you to be on top of everything a lot more than a NA Z. Tuning and maintenance is key. You don't necessarily have to do the install yourself, but you need to understand how it all works together. If you do have an issue, it's usually because you've got parts from 11 different aftermarket suppliers on there, and sometimes that can cause issues. I daily drove mine for years, but having a second car can go a long way when you're waiting on the UPS guy to get your car back on the road. If you can't DIY and you don't have a local shop that has done multiple boosted Zs (install and tune), you might to want to punt on the project. Sure, you can ship the car somewhere for install and tune, but that doesn't help you when you're out in the garage gremlin hunting. You need more than a basic level of mechanical ability or be willing to pay labor on everything. And on a boosted Z, everything takes an hour or two longer when you're paying labor. There's just a lot of extra crap packed in there, and you always have to remove 14 other things to get access to the $18 part you have to replace.

It's all based on your comfort and experience level. It's not an entry-level project. If the idea of throwing $15-20k at the car, keeping another $10k or so as an emergency "oh ****" shortblock fund, and realizing the penalty for skimping on parts or maintenance is a low five figure hit, then you might want to stay with bolt ons. If you would get upset and frustrated when the car regularly steals $200-300 from you for random bs, you're not going to have a good time.

All that being said, a boosted Z is "holy ****" fast. It's awesome. I'd do it again in a heartbeat. Again though, be realistic with yourself - would you be able to handle a car that will happily throw you off the road backwards in an instant if you do something stupid? 500whp is a ton of power. With all the videos and stuff on the internet with random 1000whp cars, it's easy to forget that 500whp is more than 99% of the vehicles you will ever see in your life and it absolutely requires respect at all times.

The other thing to keep in mind is that it's never done. You will ALWAYS want more. Anything you drive every day will start to feel slow, and then you have to buy more stuff to get that same feeling back.

JSur · 04-11-2017, 08:32 AM

[QUOTE=Chuck33079;3639148. There's just a lot of extra crap packed in there, and you always have to remove 14 other things to get access to the $18 part you have to replace. [/QUOTE]

THIS. I am dealing with this issue right now. I have the most minor coolant leak from a banjo connector on my driver side turbo. The part is literally 60 bucks from the manufacturer ! But to get to it practically requires you to drop the engine. So, I took this as an opportunity to drop a newer engine in, ceramic coat some things, upgrade engine and tranny mounts, along with a new clutch set up, so it's not a complete waste of labor cost. Luckily, my guy hooks me up and is not charging me extra labor to install the upgrades. So yea, a minor issue can turn into a big ordeal #becauseracecar

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hotrodz · 04-11-2017, 08:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck33079

These guys have it right. It's not that a boosted Z can't be reliable, it's just that it requires you to be on top of everything a lot more than a NA Z. Tuning and maintenance is key. You don't necessarily have to do the install yourself, but you need to understand how it all works together. If you do have an issue, it's usually because you've got parts from 11 different aftermarket suppliers on there, and sometimes that can cause issues. I daily drove mine for years, but having a second car can go a long way when you're waiting on the UPS guy to get your car back on the road. If you can't DIY and you don't have a local shop that has done multiple boosted Zs (install and tune), you might to want to punt on the project. Sure, you can ship the car somewhere for install and tune, but that doesn't help you when you're out in the garage gremlin hunting. You need more than a basic level of mechanical ability or be willing to pay labor on everything. And on a boosted Z, everything takes an hour or two longer when you're paying labor. There's just a lot of extra crap packed in there, and you always have to remove 14 other things to get access to the $18 part you have to replace.

It's all based on your comfort and experience level. It's not an entry-level project. If the idea of throwing $15-20k at the car, keeping another $10k or so as an emergency "oh ****" shortblock fund, and realizing the penalty for skimping on parts or maintenance is a low five figure hit, then you might want to stay with bolt ons. If you would get upset and frustrated when the car regularly steals $200-300 from you for random bs, you're not going to have a good time.

All that being said, a boosted Z is "holy ****" fast. It's awesome. I'd do it again in a heartbeat. Again though, be realistic with yourself - would you be able to handle a car that will happily throw you off the road backwards in an instant if you do something stupid? 500whp is a ton of power. With all the videos and stuff on the internet with random 1000whp cars, it's easy to forget that 500whp is more than 99% of the vehicles you will ever see in your life and it absolutely requires respect at all times.

The other thing to keep in mind is that it's never done. You will ALWAYS want more. Anything you drive every day will start to feel slow, and then you have to buy more stuff to get that same feeling back.

This in spades, I started at a little less than 500whp and the power is addicting but as Chuck says every time I do a mod big or small it is like I have a new car all over again. Also he is spot on regarding the power and other cars on the road or track. I started tracking this past year and I have yet to run at full boost. I ran the last two track weekends at my lowest boost setting and there were only three cars each weekend that could match mine in power and they were better drivers to lol, but that is the point. Learn to drive as all power does is get you in trouble faster with more significant consequences!

Jayhovah · 04-11-2017, 09:11 AM

This thread should be stickied or folded into one of the FI for Noobs threads.

B&W_Evader · 04-11-2017, 09:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hotrodz

I have been boosted for a little over three years and 30k miles and the stuff I chase is really not out of proportion with an NA Z that gets used in the same way I use mine. I am just over 50k miles total on my engine and the compression is still very good...somewhere between 46 and 48 psi on all cylinders. If you stay around 600whp or less and 550 ft/lbs/tq you should be fine for a long time. Just make sure the kit is installed right and you use a top tier tuner. Tuning is everything!!!

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

46-48 psi... WTF, my 11:1 SB350 was something like 150 if I remember right. I would thing we should be over that since we have higher compression. Never checked my 370Z but maybe it's something with the cams or the VVEL?

Hotrodz · 04-11-2017, 09:38 AM

Yeah need to check your numbers. Seb was like those numbers are pretty darn good for use and abuse on my engine. I had it done because I thought I had blown my head gasket back in February.

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

solidus · 04-11-2017, 10:51 AM

Everybody has stated the truth here. I turned my pistons, rods and valves into glitter because of a tiny hole. Slapped in another engine and started over. The catch there is that I did my install and "I" let attention to detail slip even when it was obvious. Car's running fine now at 9psi and the plan is to swap in an IPP built stage 2 longblock to replace the current motor with less than 17k miles on it. Why?..........like they said, once you feel 500whp you want 600whp. If I had a do over would I do it? All day and twice on Sundays. Would I do it the same way? The only change I'd make is that from the start I should've built the bottom end. My engine failed because of a hole in a vacuum line to one of the wastegates. It spiked to 23psi when it went and did'nt stand a chance.

Hotrodz · 04-12-2017, 09:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by B&W_Evader

46-48 psi... WTF, my 11:1 SB350 was something like 150 if I remember right. I would thing we should be over that since we have higher compression. Never checked my 370Z but maybe it's something with the cams or the VVEL?

LOL, you and I are both right...I checked the compression at each cylinder and the number you posted is correct for compression done for the coolant system.

jwick · 04-12-2017, 10:48 AM

All good stuff here. Keys are good kit, good install (including heat management), good tune and the correct fuel.

I'm three years plus on my kit and no serious issues. I chased down some minor oil leaks for awhile but I rebuilt all AN lined from scratch myself and haven't had an issues since.

I recommend DIY if you have the skills. It's going to put you leaps and bounds ahead during troubleshooting if you installed the kit.

Short story long, if you have a good kit and maintain it properly, you should have a car that lasts a long time.

Zatanna Z · 04-15-2017, 10:31 PM

Thanks to you all for the informative responses back and the advice given. It seems to me that there is too much maintenance work involved with a turbo and it could cost too much money in the long run for me right now. And I don't think I have any reliable shops I could trust that are putting turbos in Z's all the time and tuning them as well. I want to do some mods still though so I'm thinking just some simple things such as a Stillen dual intake along with an exhaust but unsure of brand for exhaust maybe stillen or fast intentions?

solidus · 04-16-2017, 06:49 AM

If you just want to have some good fun. Get your intake , exhaust , test pipes or hfc and a remote tune. If you want to step it up later add an M370 intake manifold with headers and swap out to 4.08 gears. Or forget everything else and just do the gears. That was the one mod I felt immediately when I had my G37 and it wasn't even 4.08. I went from 3.36 to 3.69 and I knew I did something special on the drive home.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

04-10-2017, 11:16 PM	#17 (permalink)
Hotrodz Premium Member Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: NW, AZ Posts: 9,330 Drives: 10 Nissan 370z Nismo Rep Power: 2684384	I have been boosted for a little over three years and 30k miles and the stuff I chase is really not out of proportion with an NA Z that gets used in the same way I use mine. I am just over 50k miles total on my engine and the compression is still very good...somewhere between 46 and 48 psi on all cylinders. If you stay around 600whp or less and 550 ft/lbs/tq you should be fine for a long time. Just make sure the kit is installed right and you use a top tier tuner. Tuning is everything!!! Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk jaytirbhaw, JARblue, Chuck33079 and 2 others like this. __________________ *Fast Intentions TT Installed and Tuned by Seb at SpecialtyZ 610whp 560tq:\|Fast Intentions 3" TT-TDX*\|SpecialtyZ/Fast Intentions 72 Row Oil Cooler\|SZ 6 Puck Clutch & Flywheel\|3GsCustoms\|Z1\|Wavetrac\|Hotchkis\|Whiteline \|Blitz\|Fortune Auto 500\|Fujimura\|SPL\|H&R\|TK\|TWM\|RPM Rollbar\|Sparco\|Next Level Performance\|TrackSpec\|AeroFlow Dynamics\|Pioneer\|

04-11-2017, 08:04 AM	#18 (permalink)
Chuck33079 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Houston Posts: 12,265 Drives: 2011 370ztt Rep Power: 29538	These guys have it right. It's not that a boosted Z can't be reliable, it's just that it requires you to be on top of everything a lot more than a NA Z. Tuning and maintenance is key. You don't necessarily have to do the install yourself, but you need to understand how it all works together. If you do have an issue, it's usually because you've got parts from 11 different aftermarket suppliers on there, and sometimes that can cause issues. I daily drove mine for years, but having a second car can go a long way when you're waiting on the UPS guy to get your car back on the road. If you can't DIY and you don't have a local shop that has done multiple boosted Zs (install and tune), you might to want to punt on the project. Sure, you can ship the car somewhere for install and tune, but that doesn't help you when you're out in the garage gremlin hunting. You need more than a basic level of mechanical ability or be willing to pay labor on everything. And on a boosted Z, everything takes an hour or two longer when you're paying labor. There's just a lot of extra crap packed in there, and you always have to remove 14 other things to get access to the $18 part you have to replace. It's all based on your comfort and experience level. It's not an entry-level project. If the idea of throwing $15-20k at the car, keeping another $10k or so as an emergency "oh **" shortblock fund, and realizing the penalty for skimping on parts or maintenance is a low five figure hit, then you might want to stay with bolt ons. If you would get upset and frustrated when the car regularly steals $200-300 from you for random bs, you're not going to have a good time. All that being said, a boosted Z is "holy **" fast. It's awesome. I'd do it again in a heartbeat. Again though, be realistic with yourself - would you be able to handle a car that will happily throw you off the road backwards in an instant if you do something stupid? 500whp is a ton of power. With all the videos and stuff on the internet with random 1000whp cars, it's easy to forget that 500whp is more than 99% of the vehicles you will ever see in your life and it absolutely requires respect at all times. The other thing to keep in mind is that it's never done. You will ALWAYS want more. Anything you drive every day will start to feel slow, and then you have to buy more stuff to get that same feeling back. jaytirbhaw, SouthArk370Z, jwick and 6 others like this. __________________ 2011 MB Touring-Sport-6sp-Nav/GTM TT/FI TT TDX/JTran/Kosmic/Eibach/Hotchkis/SPC/CSF/RPS/SoThatsWhereAllMyMoneyWent

04-11-2017, 08:32 AM	#19 (permalink)
JSur Base Member Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: Orlando Posts: 84 Drives: 2011 370z TT Rep Power: 9	How many have you have had issues from a turbo/supercharger? [QUOTE=Chuck33079;3639148. There's just a lot of extra crap packed in there, and you always have to remove 14 other things to get access to the $18 part you have to replace. [/QUOTE] THIS. I am dealing with this issue right now. I have the most minor coolant leak from a banjo connector on my driver side turbo. The part is literally 60 bucks from the manufacturer ! But to get to it practically requires you to drop the engine. So, I took this as an opportunity to drop a newer engine in, ceramic coat some things, upgrade engine and tranny mounts, along with a new clutch set up, so it's not a complete waste of labor cost. Luckily, my guy hooks me up and is not charging me extra labor to install the upgrades. So yea, a minor issue can turn into a big ordeal #becauseracecar Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

04-11-2017, 09:38 AM	#23 (permalink)
Hotrodz Premium Member Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: NW, AZ Posts: 9,330 Drives: 10 Nissan 370z Nismo Rep Power: 2684384	Yeah need to check your numbers. Seb was like those numbers are pretty darn good for use and abuse on my engine. I had it done because I thought I had blown my head gasket back in February. Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk __________________ *Fast Intentions TT Installed and Tuned by Seb at SpecialtyZ 610whp 560tq:\|Fast Intentions 3" TT-TDX*\|SpecialtyZ/Fast Intentions 72 Row Oil Cooler\|SZ 6 Puck Clutch & Flywheel\|3GsCustoms\|Z1\|Wavetrac\|Hotchkis\|Whiteline \|Blitz\|Fortune Auto 500\|Fujimura\|SPL\|H&R\|TK\|TWM\|RPM Rollbar\|Sparco\|Next Level Performance\|TrackSpec\|AeroFlow Dynamics\|Pioneer\|

04-11-2017, 10:51 AM	#24 (permalink)
solidus Track Member Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: Orlando, Florida Posts: 694 Drives: 15' Nismo Black 6MT Rep Power: 10080	Everybody has stated the truth here. I turned my pistons, rods and valves into glitter because of a tiny hole. Slapped in another engine and started over. The catch there is that I did my install and "I" let attention to detail slip even when it was obvious. Car's running fine now at 9psi and the plan is to swap in an IPP built stage 2 longblock to replace the current motor with less than 17k miles on it. Why?..........like they said, once you feel 500whp you want 600whp. If I had a do over would I do it? All day and twice on Sundays. Would I do it the same way? The only change I'd make is that from the start I should've built the bottom end. My engine failed because of a hole in a vacuum line to one of the wastegates. It spiked to 23psi when it went and did'nt stand a chance. Hotrodz likes this.

04-12-2017, 10:48 AM	#26 (permalink)
jwick A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Houston Posts: 14,532 Drives: '10 G37 6MT Rep Power: 2465056	All good stuff here. Keys are good kit, good install (including heat management), good tune and the correct fuel. I'm three years plus on my kit and no serious issues. I chased down some minor oil leaks for awhile but I rebuilt all AN lined from scratch myself and haven't had an issues since. I recommend DIY if you have the skills. It's going to put you leaps and bounds ahead during troubleshooting if you installed the kit. Short story long, if you have a good kit and maintain it properly, you should have a car that lasts a long time. SouthArk370Z and Hotrodz like this. __________________ '10 G37T 6MT Graphite/Graphite - BP - G37T Build

04-15-2017, 10:31 PM	#27 (permalink)
Zatanna Z Enthusiast Member Join Date: Dec 2016 Location: Nebraska Posts: 254 Drives: 2010 Nissan 370z 6MT Rep Power: 8	Thanks to you all for the informative responses back and the advice given. It seems to me that there is too much maintenance work involved with a turbo and it could cost too much money in the long run for me right now. And I don't think I have any reliable shops I could trust that are putting turbos in Z's all the time and tuning them as well. I want to do some mods still though so I'm thinking just some simple things such as a Stillen dual intake along with an exhaust but unsure of brand for exhaust maybe stillen or fast intentions?

04-16-2017, 06:49 AM	#28 (permalink)
solidus Track Member Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: Orlando, Florida Posts: 694 Drives: 15' Nismo Black 6MT Rep Power: 10080	If you just want to have some good fun. Get your intake , exhaust , test pipes or hfc and a remote tune. If you want to step it up later add an M370 intake manifold with headers and swap out to 4.08 gears. Or forget everything else and just do the gears. That was the one mod I felt immediately when I had my G37 and it wasn't even 4.08. I went from 3.36 to 3.69 and I knew I did something special on the drive home. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

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