Topgunz - air to air upgrade

TopgunZ · 05-04-2019, 09:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nic370

Hmm ok
I have a pipe down into my wheel well now with a big k&n on and it felt like it pulled a bit harder with the one topz supplies indent know what psi I've lost

Just wonder how well these pre filters would keep the dirt out

Do you run without a boost gauge? That would be a pretty common way to see what's going on. Especially if your modifying breathing components.

nic370 · 05-05-2019, 12:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TopgunZ

Do you run without a boost gauge? That would be a pretty common way to see what's going on. Especially if your modifying breathing components.

No I dont run a boost gauge at the moment but I'm going back on dyno soon for a re tune as my charger needed a re build at the time of tuning due to a broken impeller

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

espimax · 05-06-2019, 07:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by redondoaveb

Zeitronix ECA-2. I don't know about uprev but ecutek supports it.

Thanks

G3RSTY7 · 05-23-2019, 08:24 AM

I just ordered a Gates belt tension gauge to try to avoid guessing on the belt tension as right now I'm hearing some gear chatter when shifting gears while everything hasn't been completely warmed up probably first 20 minutes or so of driving (probably belt was too tight) but I do see some signs of belt slip after I loosened it so I ordered a gauge. Gates says belt tension should be between 120-160 when cold, and if tension drops below 120 after the car/belts warm up for 5 minutes, then it needs to be tightened. Sound right?

I attached a picture below to clarify, but when I adjust the belt tension do I just get below the car and turn the long hex bolt CCW to loosen and CW to tighten, or do I need to loosen the bolt behind the tensioner pulley, then adjust the long hex bolt, and re-tighten tensioner pulley bolt? I understand there is usually some sort of spring mechanism in the tensioner to help it do it's job so I want to get it right.

Also while I'm in the business of checking belt tension, anybody know what tension the serpentine belt is supposed to be? I thought the stock tensioner was supposed to take care of that but I've read some things that make me want to double check it since OEM isn't designed to also run a supercharger.

I have the green no-slip belt and pulley if tensions make a difference from the OEM belt FWIW.

Thanks

m6z · 05-23-2019, 09:25 AM

I'm looking to pick up a low miles 2015+ Nismo with the manual trans soon. I'll be doing the install myself and having a pro tune it. This will be my DD 95% of the time.

A2A kit $6k
Fuel system $1k
Tune?
Clutch recommendations for this power level?

Any recommended tuners in the SW Missouri area or within a couple hundred miles? Tulsa, OKC or KC area would be preferred.

I'm going to go with a 91 octane tune, E85 is only available at one station in town. Looking for at least 480 RWHP. No meth.

What is the quietest (no drone) exhaust that I can get away with? I was thinking of changing to resonated test pipes and leaving everything else stock.

"Z"en · 05-23-2019, 09:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by m6z

I'm looking to pick up a low miles 2015+ Nismo with the manual trans soon. I'll be doing the install myself and having a pro tune it. This will be my DD 95% of the time.

A2A kit $6k
Fuel system $1k
Tune?
Clutch recommendations for this power level?

Any recommended tuners in the SW Missouri area or within a couple hundred miles? Tulsa, OKC or KC area would be preferred.

I'm going to go with a 91 octane tune, E85 is only available at one station in town. Looking for at least 480 RWHP. No meth.

What is the quietest (no drone) exhaust that I can get away with? I was thinking of changing to resonated test pipes and leaving everything else stock.

For the power you want, Motordyne Art pipes paired with Ark Grip CBE are recommended for quietness and minimized drone. Please also consider low-temp thermostat, larger radiator, oil coolers, better oil pans, and colder spark plugs as supporting mods.

nic370 · 05-23-2019, 10:01 AM

On the note off cooling anyone using csf rad ?

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

"Z"en · 05-23-2019, 10:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nic370

On the note off cooling anyone using csf rad ?

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

I'm using their triple-pass rad.

G3RSTY7 · 05-23-2019, 10:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by m6z

What is the quietest (no drone) exhaust that I can get away with? I was thinking of changing to resonated test pipes and leaving everything else stock.

Even with resonated test pipes it will have drone/rasp with stock exhaust. If going full Fast Intentions resonated exhaust is out of your budget, I was able to pretty much completely eliminate drone/rasp with my FI resonated test pipes by putting a Nismo axleback exhaust on. It’s probably 10lbs heavier than my stock was, and has resonators in the tips.
Other than that, I’m still waiting on my thaitanium resonated Y pipe and then I’ll probably throw my stock muffler back on

m6z · 05-23-2019, 11:37 AM

Recommended oil pan that will work with the A2A kit?

Thanks for the help guys.

redondoaveb · 05-23-2019, 11:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by m6z

Recommended oil pan that will work with the A2A kit?

Thanks for the help guys.

https://cj-motorsports.com/products/...-oil-pan-hrvhr

redondoaveb · 05-23-2019, 11:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by G3RSTY7

I just ordered a Gates belt tension gauge to try to avoid guessing on the belt tension as right now I'm hearing some gear chatter when shifting gears while everything hasn't been completely warmed up probably first 20 minutes or so of driving (probably belt was too tight) but I do see some signs of belt slip after I loosened it so I ordered a gauge. Gates says belt tension should be between 120-160 when cold, and if tension drops below 120 after the car/belts warm up for 5 minutes, then it needs to be tightened. Sound right?

I attached a picture below to clarify, but when I adjust the belt tension do I just get below the car and turn the long hex bolt CCW to loosen and CW to tighten, or do I need to loosen the bolt behind the tensioner pulley, then adjust the long hex bolt, and re-tighten tensioner pulley bolt? I understand there is usually some sort of spring mechanism in the tensioner to help it do it's job so I want to get it right.

Also while I'm in the business of checking belt tension, anybody know what tension the serpentine belt is supposed to be? I thought the stock tensioner was supposed to take care of that but I've read some things that make me want to double check it since OEM isn't designed to also run a supercharger.

I have the green no-slip belt and pulley if tensions make a difference from the OEM belt FWIW.

Thanks

Somebody else will have to chime in on adjustment as I haven't adjusted mine myself but as far as belt slip goes, I've had good luck with the Gates RPM belt. Since switching over to it, I've had zero belt slip. It's a stiffer belt and a couple of super high boosted guys have snapped the belt but I've had no issues at all with it (knock on wood, fingers crossed).

TopgunZ · 05-23-2019, 12:33 PM

When I set these the end of the threads line up with the top of the bolts and we don't get slip. Yours looks way way too tight. Your going to chew up your bearings.

Quote:

Originally Posted by G3RSTY7

I just ordered a Gates belt tension gauge to try to avoid guessing on the belt tension as right now I'm hearing some gear chatter when shifting gears while everything hasn't been completely warmed up probably first 20 minutes or so of driving (probably belt was too tight) but I do see some signs of belt slip after I loosened it so I ordered a gauge. Gates says belt tension should be between 120-160 when cold, and if tension drops below 120 after the car/belts warm up for 5 minutes, then it needs to be tightened. Sound right?

I attached a picture below to clarify, but when I adjust the belt tension do I just get below the car and turn the long hex bolt CCW to loosen and CW to tighten, or do I need to loosen the bolt behind the tensioner pulley, then adjust the long hex bolt, and re-tighten tensioner pulley bolt? I understand there is usually some sort of spring mechanism in the tensioner to help it do it's job so I want to get it right.

Also while I'm in the business of checking belt tension, anybody know what tension the serpentine belt is supposed to be? I thought the stock tensioner was supposed to take care of that but I've read some things that make me want to double check it since OEM isn't designed to also run a supercharger.

I have the green no-slip belt and pulley if tensions make a difference from the OEM belt FWIW.

Thanks

TopgunZ · 05-23-2019, 12:36 PM

Go with the Z1 clutch kit and consider remote tuning with a pro tuner. Your tune will be MUCH better than a novice or less experienced guy.

Quote:

Originally Posted by m6z

I'm looking to pick up a low miles 2015+ Nismo with the manual trans soon. I'll be doing the install myself and having a pro tune it. This will be my DD 95% of the time.

A2A kit $6k
Fuel system $1k
Tune?
Clutch recommendations for this power level?

Any recommended tuners in the SW Missouri area or within a couple hundred miles? Tulsa, OKC or KC area would be preferred.

I'm going to go with a 91 octane tune, E85 is only available at one station in town. Looking for at least 480 RWHP. No meth.

What is the quietest (no drone) exhaust that I can get away with? I was thinking of changing to resonated test pipes and leaving everything else stock.

G3RSTY7 · 05-23-2019, 02:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TopgunZ

When I set these the end of the threads line up with the top of the bolts and we don't get slip. Yours looks way way too tight. Your going to chew up your bearings.

I just used a picture taken out of the stillen manual, that’s not actually mine. But I will try to get it adjusted properly. Going to send in my soare blower to get built by 928 so after I fix current flex tune I’ll change my setup for more boost.

05-23-2019, 09:25 AM	#2630 (permalink)
m6z Base Member Join Date: May 2019 Location: Missouri Posts: 6 Drives: Red rocket Rep Power: 5	I'm looking to pick up a low miles 2015+ Nismo with the manual trans soon. I'll be doing the install myself and having a pro tune it. This will be my DD 95% of the time. A2A kit $6k Fuel system $1k Tune? Clutch recommendations for this power level? Any recommended tuners in the SW Missouri area or within a couple hundred miles? Tulsa, OKC or KC area would be preferred. I'm going to go with a 91 octane tune, E85 is only available at one station in town. Looking for at least 480 RWHP. No meth. What is the quietest (no drone) exhaust that I can get away with? I was thinking of changing to resonated test pipes and leaving everything else stock. "Z"en likes this. Last edited by m6z; 05-23-2019 at 09:28 AM.

05-23-2019, 10:01 AM	#2632 (permalink)
nic370 Base Member Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: uk Posts: 187 Drives: 370 Rep Power: 10	On the note off cooling anyone using csf rad ? Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk "Z"en likes this.

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05-23-2019, 11:37 AM	#2635 (permalink)
m6z Base Member Join Date: May 2019 Location: Missouri Posts: 6 Drives: Red rocket Rep Power: 5	Recommended oil pan that will work with the A2A kit? Thanks for the help guys.