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I've had bad luck with gauges, it's frustrating.
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I used PLX Boost gauge and had no problem with it.
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They really did design this kit to max out at that 8psi mark where the intake temps are still somewhat manageable by this thing. I can see why they wouldn't sell the 9psi pulley without a warranty waiver.
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Hit my first stumbling block today
My tunner has done all the partial throttle stuff which went fine. When he reached anywhere near 3/4000 rpm he says he's experiencing a lot of knock and the car pulls a shed load of timing and the ecu drops load he can't figure out what's doing it He can hear nothing in the det cans so suspects false knock I wondering if a pipe is touching somewhere giving me vibration or something. He's pulled it off the dyno for now for ecutek to check the software but suspects it's hardware Anyone else had issues like this I'm sure I read a thred in here about a guy with this issue that tried everything to solve the knock sensor going mad edit just spoke with topz my tial is on wrong hopefullly this was the issue and it hasnt done any damage else ill be going forged :( |
QUOTE"just spoke with topz my tial is on wrong "
hey topunz....i dont feel so bad or STUPID now!!!!!! |
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I dont know if it was you who posted up about your tial with a picture But thank you you have possible saved me a lot of grief I realy hope this is the issue Even if it isn't it wasn't right so thanks :bowrofl: |
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Just for a bit of amusement thought I'd throw this up here.
From the first moment I saw this Y-Pipe design as part of the original kit it never sat right with me. Always had suspicions of issues with inconsistent readings. Now I've already ordered TopgunZ's kit but thought in the meantime set out to prove just how inefficient the Y-Pipe really is. My suspicions came from the idea that even with the recommended air deflection plate Stillen insist you use (redundant for me as I had the FrozenBoost Heat Exchanger which completely blocked my front bar opening thus preventing the problem the deflection plate resolves) there simply isn't enough time/length between air entering the Pod Filter to settle into a steady flow before hitting the MAFs. This is a problem for those who tried doing a Hybrid MAF/MAP tune since driveability suffers as a result. Prior to working with Seb, a previous Tuner decided to bridge my MAFs to get around this. But long story short, didn't really work out too well, and my MAFs were maxing out at about 4000 RPM. So I undid the bridge, got Seb to eTune, and picked up some generic 2.5" pipes & couplers to extend the distance between Pod & MAF and the results were pretty promising, see attached. Both done @ idle. Gave accelerator a small stab in the second. This was done pretty much for sh*ts & giggles, and utterly redundant once the A2A kit finally arrives. Just makes me question all the more who the hell oversaw the design of this kit and who approved it in the end at Stillen. TL: DR - Hated Y-Pipe from beginning because path of air too short between Pod & MAF. Bought some cheap 2.5" pipes & couplers to extend that path. Logs showed a marked improvement. ...not even going to get started on that atrocity of a silicone coupler piece at the SC itself... :shakes head: |
After reading about all the flaws in the Stillen kit, I would never put it on my car unless I was rerotfitting this A2A kit with it. It's unfortunate for those who didn't have the chance to learn about said flaws.
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Can I see some dyno results of the Stillen + TG A2A upgrade?
What pages are they on? Cheers. |
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I did find a use for that cast aluminum Y pipe at least... to cut off the flanges and weld them on my temporary charge pipe :icon17: |
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Is this on e85 or 93? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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