Here you go, you can see the values on the right.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...892ef7d8da.jpg

I use my scan gauge and it reads tach. All that comes from the ECU, so yes. UpRev will give it to you in a log if you choose to log that parameter.

Thanx man I'll look again mine was 0 for all? maybe I had missed some, like might have left the VDC on. I'll check again, thanx man!!

How is it on the 170? what happens when you dump it, with it lower does the car accelerate faster? Or just more tire spin?

It should adjust as long as cruise control isn't on. It won't matter is VDC is still on or not.

I was playing around with it and still am, which is why you see 170 as my min. I believe 140 is the lowest you can go.

I forgot what rpms I normally dump the brake at when I torque launch, so I'm still messing with it.

My AEM Boost/AFR gauge has logging built in. It can also log rpm along with boost pressure and AFR. What I need is a signal to get the rpm info from. I might be able to use the crank angle sensor, or an injector, or possible the 12v coil wire.

Wideband Failsafe Gauge | AEM

Sorry bud. Misread what you were actually looking for. There has to be a singal you can tap into but I don't know which one.

No problem. I sent an email to the AEM tech department to find out what the input signal level can be. May be that will give me an idea of what to tap into.

EVO, let us know how the dyno goes today. I'm interested in what you think about that impeller compared to the SI.

StillenZ84, did you dyno yet?

Not happening for me this Saturday, fuel pump problem. Pressure dropped to 40 psi and then got worse. Now at 10 psi!

Ouch. Tough break Tim. The good news is, it's always faster the second time! Just remember to keep that blue o ring free of gas or it will expand.

Been there, done that. Dang saddle tank hose was twisted and took forever to get the lock released. Meanwhile gas was dripping on the o ring. I had to use rtv to seal the pump. Why in the world did Nissan use a o ring that was not compatible with gas on a gas tank. Duh.

Now that I have made the mistake, the CORRECT way to remove the fuel pump is to 1. unbolt and remove the retainer ring 2. lift up the pump a couple of inches 3. remove the O-ring by carefully sliding it off of the top of the pump assembly. With the O-ring removed you can drip fuel all you want. Replace the O-ring the same way. Place the pump in the fuel tank FIRST then slide the O-ring over the top. Re-install retainer ring.

BTW: RockAuto.com does stock the O-ring

Waiting for dyno results from you all:hello:... Ready to see the power!:bowrofl:

Topgunz,
I am considering purchasing your air to air setup and wanted to ask you is there any reason you can't leave the Stillen water to air parts on?
I mean leaving on the water radiator, the water pump for it and the manifold intercooler and just using it all with your kit instead of removing it. Maybe it might cool things even better?:wtf2:

It would be in the way of the new intercooler, and would most likely make it run hotter. Also, weren't you the one claiming he'd never need more power and giving topgunz a ration of **** in this very thread?

EDIT - Yep, that was you. Throwing rocks at the guy trying to improve on the kit, and then doing a 180 and coming back to buy the upgrade? If I were him I'd tell you to go pound sand.

Lookout chuck is on his morning rant. I often get a kick out of listen to you keeping these guys in line, Keep up the good work buddy..:eekdance::eekdance:
Chuck needs to be our forum attorney...

:rofl2::rofl2::rofl2::rofl2::rofl2:

Btw how is the old gtm kit holding up these days??

Well, as Chuck said, you stated you want this thing to be as reliable as it can be. Why would you want to add complexity into the system then? Anytime you have more "stuff" on a car there is more stuff to maintain.

Go read the numerous threads on "My stillen water pump isnt working".

Do you want a big block of aluminum in your manifold doing nothing but blocking air flow and possibly, no more like probably, increasing the intake temps? The temps on the air to air are around 20* above ambient with zero heatsoak. All that aluminum plug is going to do is heatsoak and bring those intake temps back up.

Don't you put that evil on me, Ricky Bobby. :rofl2:


Solid as a rock, but I'm always keeping my eyes out for a set of spare manifolds. :rofl2:

I may be able get you a pair, let me see what I can do.. Trying to get up with sam these days is Very hard...

Top is VERY correct! The Stillen heat exchanger that goes in the intake manifold is very restrictive. When you hold it up to a light you can barely see through it. I was totally blown away at how much blockage the Stillen part has. I'll be glad to post a picture but you won't be able to see anything except aluminum.

Well that clears that up and thank you for the answers.

Just to close up the tach sensor idea, Matthew at AEM responded back with a great idea to get a tach signal for whatever you may need, in my case it is for the data logging AEM boost/afr gauge. MSD makes a sensor that can be used on a injector or coil pack lead. You do NOT have to cut or tap into the wire. It is an inductive sensor that simply clamps over the wire and detects the firing pulse and then re-creates a 12 volt pulse to drive a tach or data logger. Brilliant!

Mine is on the way!

I'm also going to post this over in the DIY section.

https://www.msdperformance.com/produ...ers/parts/8918

Rep points are always welcomed if you find this useful.

PM me

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

Have any of the cars made it to the dyno?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I haven't yet. Waiting on Seb.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

What diff gears you running JWillis72?

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

The stock 7AT ones.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Im still waiting for the dyno also. The only trustworthy dyno here had a truck blow up and spill oil all over it so it is in the process of being taken apart and cleaned and then inspected.

I ended up tapping into my injector lead and the shift light on my innovate motorsports boost/shift light gauge works perfect. Just had to program the shift light in the gauge software to the 1 cylinder option for it function correct.

My built long block should be back in three weeks. I'm ready to try to get this done again.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

V2! I'll give you my strut brace.... And I've never been to Florida so I'll hand deliver it.:happydance:

I'm going to start with my V3 but I'm seriously considering trying the v2 in the spring. It's to hot to go to the track right now but I want to get it all back together and the bugs worked out before fall plus my V3 only has a couple hundred miles on it.

A lot changed from the time of my last post, I will not be doing the v2. This followed me home today.


. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...af5f8c55ec.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well then...

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

Humm. . I think that's a nice upgrade..

YzGyz

So, the boy does inherit the Z after all ??? :-)

No, I wanted to but I'm afraid to, he is just stupid when it comes to cars. I've tried to teach him but he just doesn't listen. Every time he has trouble he just keeps driving, I don't want to have to buy anymore engines.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

:icon17:Sounds a little like my daughter ... [What OIL Light?]

Are you keeping the Z as well ???
I hear they Pair Well in Yellow ...::icon17::...

I don't think so but the Z is paid off so I'm in no rush.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Congrats!! I know you've been wanting that for a long time. Happy for you man.