Sorry bud. Misread what you were actually looking for. There has to be a singal you can tap into but I don't know which one.

No problem. I sent an email to the AEM tech department to find out what the input signal level can be. May be that will give me an idea of what to tap into.

EVO, let us know how the dyno goes today. I'm interested in what you think about that impeller compared to the SI.

StillenZ84, did you dyno yet?

Not happening for me this Saturday, fuel pump problem. Pressure dropped to 40 psi and then got worse. Now at 10 psi!

Ouch. Tough break Tim. The good news is, it's always faster the second time! Just remember to keep that blue o ring free of gas or it will expand.

Been there, done that. Dang saddle tank hose was twisted and took forever to get the lock released. Meanwhile gas was dripping on the o ring. I had to use rtv to seal the pump. Why in the world did Nissan use a o ring that was not compatible with gas on a gas tank. Duh.

Now that I have made the mistake, the CORRECT way to remove the fuel pump is to 1. unbolt and remove the retainer ring 2. lift up the pump a couple of inches 3. remove the O-ring by carefully sliding it off of the top of the pump assembly. With the O-ring removed you can drip fuel all you want. Replace the O-ring the same way. Place the pump in the fuel tank FIRST then slide the O-ring over the top. Re-install retainer ring.

BTW: RockAuto.com does stock the O-ring

Waiting for dyno results from you all:hello:... Ready to see the power!:bowrofl:

Topgunz,
I am considering purchasing your air to air setup and wanted to ask you is there any reason you can't leave the Stillen water to air parts on?
I mean leaving on the water radiator, the water pump for it and the manifold intercooler and just using it all with your kit instead of removing it. Maybe it might cool things even better?:wtf2:

It would be in the way of the new intercooler, and would most likely make it run hotter. Also, weren't you the one claiming he'd never need more power and giving topgunz a ration of **** in this very thread?

EDIT - Yep, that was you. Throwing rocks at the guy trying to improve on the kit, and then doing a 180 and coming back to buy the upgrade? If I were him I'd tell you to go pound sand.

Lookout chuck is on his morning rant. I often get a kick out of listen to you keeping these guys in line, Keep up the good work buddy..:eekdance::eekdance:
Chuck needs to be our forum attorney...

:rofl2::rofl2::rofl2::rofl2::rofl2:

Btw how is the old gtm kit holding up these days??

Well, as Chuck said, you stated you want this thing to be as reliable as it can be. Why would you want to add complexity into the system then? Anytime you have more "stuff" on a car there is more stuff to maintain.

Go read the numerous threads on "My stillen water pump isnt working".

Do you want a big block of aluminum in your manifold doing nothing but blocking air flow and possibly, no more like probably, increasing the intake temps? The temps on the air to air are around 20* above ambient with zero heatsoak. All that aluminum plug is going to do is heatsoak and bring those intake temps back up.

Don't you put that evil on me, Ricky Bobby. :rofl2:


Solid as a rock, but I'm always keeping my eyes out for a set of spare manifolds. :rofl2:

I may be able get you a pair, let me see what I can do.. Trying to get up with sam these days is Very hard...

Top is VERY correct! The Stillen heat exchanger that goes in the intake manifold is very restrictive. When you hold it up to a light you can barely see through it. I was totally blown away at how much blockage the Stillen part has. I'll be glad to post a picture but you won't be able to see anything except aluminum.