If you are able to twist the Y pipe by just a tiny amount to the right it would bring that side of the pipe closer to the TB. You would need to loosen the 90* coupler on the bottom so it can turn in there a bit which shouldnt throw that side off as its mostly flush. This would also require you to loosen the Y pipe side of the 45* coupler also. Which kind of sucks because you will need to take your bumper off to get to that unless you can reach up from you front bumper if you have something like the stillen bumper. Not sure. However, to get an entirely new coupler on there you will most likely have to do the same anyways.

You do drive a 370 right? I know the G37 guys have issues with that area.

But if you need a coupler you can probably source what you need from Treadstone.

http://www.treadstoneperformance.com...=Silicone+Hose

Yes I am in a 370....but Ive cut enough for the bottom of the Y-Pipe area than I'm comfortable with..Cutting anymore would leave nothing lol.....take a look at reference pics of bottom side of Y Pipe.

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j5...229-160127.jpg

Have you tried hairspray on the coupler? It'll make it stick and might solve your problem.

By clocking it to the right just a tad shouldnt require you to have to trim anymore shroud. We are talking like 1 or 2 degrees here and that should be enough to push that pipe closer to the TB.

Just got back from dyno days at ESTUNED, they run a all wheel Mustang dyno. Very hot day in the low 90's when I made my run.
Numbers were 366WHP and 289TQ very flat TQ curve and a ridiculously linear HP curve.
This is with 8 lb boost and very conservative tune.

It's too bad you don't have any baseline numbers. Those numbers break my heart :(

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The Mustang dyno's aren't called heart breakers for nothing!

Was the dyno running in AWD mode while your car was on it? Even by Mustang standards that seems ridiculously low.

Well, numbers are just that, a number. What really matters is how much fun your having while driving it. If your smiling, nothing else matters. :tup:

Correction that was in 3rd gear it hit 383WHP In forth.

Topgunz - air to air upgrade
 

I originally dynoed on a mustang. My 403whp on a Mustang was 508 on a dynojet.

Wow that's a HUGE difference. I knew they were on the low side but that's redonculous :eek:

You should be over 400WHP on 4th gear....mostly everyones dyno numbers are on 4th gear....others have done it on 5th gear stating that 5th gear is more on the 1:1 ratio.

Was that JTRAN's? When I was over there he said he ended up switching to a dynojet because people were so disappointed with the numbers his dyno put out that he was losing business... even though he felt the mustang dyno was a far superior tuning tool.

Yes

Not sure if anyone saw this, but this is making me look into gesi cats now LOL. https://www.instagram.com/p/BQWghiKA03_/

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Not bad for an auto with nothing more on the stock Stillen kit than A/A :tup:

500whp with the 8psi pulley and thats all?...Impressive numbers. I wonder how he had enough head room in the fuel system to get to the 500hp mark.

Timing is a powerful thing i guess. I have one customer who made 536whp on the stock kit and 91 octane with just adding meth. (I think he was on the 9psi pulley though)

Pretty impressive...I too am wondering the same thing....My Stillen fuel system tapped out during tuning....Lol

TopZ, I'm collecting parts for my June upgrade plans. Tell me more about this please. I have the Tial already and I'm planning on taking the SC off and rotate the volute the way you meant it to be (finally). Any upgrades in the intake filter design?

If you have the Tial you would just need the 60* coupler, 2.75" L pipe, and a 2.75" to 2.5" reducer coupler. Along with 2 more T bolt clamps.

Current intake filter design is still proving to be the least restrictive.

Thanks!

I was told by dealer that my 2016 with 7at 5th gear was 1 to 1. thats what we used. I wonder if there has been any changes

Who was it that machines the spacers for the added 2" idler. Been looking and looking through the thread and can't find it.. Stillenz84 maybe?

Tbatt does it. Does an amazing job.


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Thanks, sent him a pm :tup:

You know the worst part about getting on the A2A bandwagon?

Waiting two weeks for the kit to be fabbed up! lol :)

ChaseZ

I should be able to get to work on a spacer for you sometime next week. This week turned out to be busier than I thought. Do you want just the spacer or the whole kit including the idler pulley, bolt and washer?

You decide to go A2A?

Can you add the trimmed belt in there also? Then the "extra pulley" mod would be a complete kit.

Thanks, yeah might as well do it as a kit. Easier that way. Been a crazy week here too I know how it goes.
Bit the bullet and decided just to go for it. Was having IAT heat issues during tuning, while largely due to a blower bearing it left a bad taste in my mouth and decided I didn't want to have that in the back of my mind all the time. Instead I'll just out the pedal down whenever I want with no extra thought to it other than where I'm pointing lol
That would work :tup:

Awesome! Think it is the way to go. The independent R&D on this board between TBatt's "Belt Slip Kit" and Topz A2A kit is going to start driving up the price of used Stillen kits!! I wonder how many people off this board have already called them up like "Can I just buy a blower, manifold, and a bracket?"

I am undergoing a major project utilizing the stock manifold for a new supercharger kit. I bought a 3D scanner and am starting on this project soon. It might be Rotrex based. I am aiming for a turn key kit for under $7K that will make 500whp.

You the man. How much boost can the stock mani hold?

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Much much more than any supercharger that will fit in our cars can throw at it. Like 22psi from twin turbo threads.

Hey can you PM what kind of scanner you got? I have been wanting to get into 3d scanning, modeling, and printing but I'm not sure what kind of scanner can produce CAD quality models.

Sure can. I can offer the standard belt or the HD Fleet version (what I'm currently running).

I'll work up pricing it as a complete kit.

Are those both Gates Green or is one green and the other standard something like that.

The K081088HD is the green one which is the fleet duty version. It is slightly thicker than the normal belt but for just a couple of bucks more = cheap insurance. I've got about 5K miles on my setup and it has worked great. The non HD belt is black.

The complete kit price looks like it will be $160 plus shipping.

The kit will have the following:
1ea. Custom made 6061 aluminum spacer
1ea. 12mmx1.75x50mm grade 8 bolt
1ea. 12mm washer
1ea. K081088HD belt modified to 7 rib
1ea. 54mm idler pulley

Please don't send in any orders just yet. I'm pretty much swamped until June with other work commitments (I'm in high demand this time of the year).