TT Maintenance and Long term things NOOBS should know

TerribleONE · 05-06-2015, 03:52 PM

If you aren't getting traction the power isn't usable. I cant even go WOT in 1-3rd when I am on my "kill tune".

Hotrodz · 05-06-2015, 08:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TerribleONE

If you aren't getting traction the power isn't usable. I cant even go WOT in 1-3rd when I am on my "kill tune".

LOL, when I set my boost gauge to zero, I still make 7lbs of boost and that is enough to spin the wheels through 3rd gear if I stab it. Don't get me wrong I agree with bullitt, you got to manage the throttle.

F.I. Inc. · 05-06-2015, 08:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brucelidat

So as the title implies, this thread is for those who are familiar with and have owned boosted cars long term to impart some knowledge onto us noobs who might be considering going that route. I have friends telling me that turbos are more complicated and when there are so many parts, there's higher chances that something, even it's small will break or come loose etc. TT is a huge investment so I listed a few questions I think novices might be curious about. Please add any other thoughts or things to consider/watch out for those considering TT.

What/how much maintenance is required for TT cars?

Do little things often get loose/break, etc. that noobs would have a hard time noticing and diagnosing which would result in shop time?

Can a good kit (like Fast intentions) just be installed and not worried about other than basic maintenance for years or worry-free driving?

To follow up from our phone conversation from earlier...

With our kit routine maintenance is as follows:

Every 3,000 Miles
*Perform an oil change. If you are on E85, I recommend doing the oil change right at 2,500.
*Check all oil feed, oil drain and coolant line connections to ensure there are no leaks.
*Check vacuum line connections to make sure there are no leaks.
*Check intercooler tubing connection points to ensure the T-bolt clamps are tight and the tubes are in their perspective places.
*Check the silicone couplers to ensure they are not rubbing or have excessive wear.
*Tighten all connection points in the exhaust system. At that time, look it over to ensure there are no leaks.

Every 15,000 Miles perform all of the above and...
*Ensure all drain holes and air delivery hoses are in good working order. Make sure the heat from the engine compartment has not created a "dry rot" effect. Extremely unlikely that this would be the case!

Every 30,000 Miles perform all of the above and...
*Remove the down pipes/exhaust transition elbows to visually inspect the turbine side of the turbocharger. What you don't want to see is excessive "wet" or oil. In the event that you do, it means your seals in the CHRA (Center Housing Rotating Assembly) are starting to deteriorate and you will want to have the CHRA rebuilt.

In addition to all of the above, at each oil change, look the car over. Make sure the sway bar connections and suspension is in good working order.

At the end of the day, most of this is preventative maintenance. It's always good to air on the side of caution for peace of mind.

Thanks.
-Tony

roplusbee · 05-07-2015, 07:12 AM

The funny thing about this thread is that we were talking about maintaining a boosted beast of a Z. It doesn't matter how much power is usable or even how much power you are putting down. The things that matter are:

1. Are you allowing proper warm-up and cool-down cycles?
2. Are you regularly inspecting the items that you installed as well as the normal maintenance items?
3. Do you have a feeling for what it feels like when it is running right, so that you can feel if something is different?
4. Do you have things in place to monitor various functions that give you indications of problems?
5. If this is your first rodeo, have you done your research AND talked to the pros?

I agree that stuff happens and you cannot prevent every failure, but you can do a lot to minimize the chances of it being catastrophic. These things seem like common sense to me, but everyone has their own opinion and/or perception of how things are.

brucelidat · 05-07-2015, 04:45 PM

Will the OEM sport package viscous LSD be able to put the power down or is a real LSD like quaife needed?

VSS370z · 05-07-2015, 07:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brucelidat

Will the OEM sport package viscous LSD be able to put the power down or is a real LSD like quaife needed?

The stock LSD is useless. The car will drive way better with an aftermarket LSD and don't forget the whiteline bushings that alone makes a lot of difference.

brucelidat · 05-07-2015, 07:41 PM

Yeah, Tony mentioned Whiteline bushings. He said I'd be okay running 305s in the rear with the stock vlsd and the bushings. What do you guys think?

jwick · 05-07-2015, 07:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brucelidat

Yeah, Tony mentioned Whiteline bushings. He said I'd be okay running 305s in the rear with the stock vlsd and the bushings. What do you guys think?

Bushing definitely helps things. I noticed a big difference. I can't fit a 305 so I'm still undertreaded

VSS370z · 05-07-2015, 09:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brucelidat

Yeah, Tony mentioned Whiteline bushings. He said I'd be okay running 305s in the rear with the stock vlsd and the bushings. What do you guys think?

305s in the rear are a good choice and if Tony said it is fine to use the stock vlsd then

i take he's recommendation!

brucelidat · 05-07-2015, 09:44 PM

Wonder if I can fit 265s up front to match the drop I will be getting from changing the rear tires. Man, hope I can make it out when Cycy pick sup his car so I can get a ride and help make my decision.

jwick · 05-07-2015, 10:00 PM

Lot of Zs run 265 upfront

Rob298mx · 05-07-2015, 10:11 PM

Just be weary that it will tram line like a mother trucker. Wide tires are awesome but damn I was shocked on how bad this thing pulled on the shitty roads

roplusbee · 05-09-2015, 09:52 AM

Well with regard to tire size choices, the G is a little different. I am going to go out on a limb and say that it can be done with the right suspension and a little convincing.

With the stock LSD and such, I never had any issues. I don't drag race, nor have I had the Z on a circuit. The only arenas I have had the pleasure of attacking are private sessions on specific interesting roads and the awesome roads surrounding Fontana Village. If that isn't good enough of a test bed, I don't know what is.

When it comes to suspension and driveline bits, I suggest you get to know how YOUR car behaves to YOUR driving style and current power level. If you recently installed a bunch of go fast bits, get used to her again and then determine what you need IF you need upgrades in that department. The general consensus is to do bushings and mounts, but even those are a case by case basis. I changed out my engine mounts, but left the transmission mount alone until I could determine the effectiveness of the change. Throwing parts at a car before you get a feel for it is just plain crazy and expensive (especially if you have to get something different).

I learned that the hard way when I was into B12-B13 Sentras and S13 240SX Fastbacks. The key is only changing the things that make a positive impact on the area(s) that you feel are lacking in reference to the feedback you get with YOUR driving style.

KratikosG37 · 05-09-2015, 11:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by roplusbee

Well with regard to tire size choices, the G is a little different. I am going to go out on a limb and say that it can be done with the right suspension and a little convincing.

With the stock LSD and such, I never had any issues. I don't drag race, nor have I had the Z on a circuit. The only arenas I have had the pleasure of attacking are private sessions on specific interesting roads and the awesome roads surrounding Fontana Village. If that isn't good enough of a test bed, I don't know what is.

When it comes to suspension and driveline bits, I suggest you get to know how YOUR car behaves to YOUR driving style and current power level. If you recently installed a bunch of go fast bits, get used to her again and then determine what you need IF you need upgrades in that department. The general consensus is to do bushings and mounts, but even those are a case by case basis. I changed out my engine mounts, but left the transmission mount alone until I could determine the effectiveness of the change. Throwing parts at a car before you get a feel for it is just plain crazy and expensive (especially if you have to get something different).

I learned that the hard way when I was into B12-B13 Sentras and S13 240SX Fastbacks. The key is only changing the things that make a positive impact on the area(s) that you feel are lacking in reference to the feedback you get with YOUR driving style.

G37 is about the same. You don't need a aftermarket LSD for street use, but if you're doing road racing that's another story.

I'm on stock shocks, tien spring kit, and factory LCD. It does decent in the 60ft, but not so will in corners. Unless you're aiming towards some performance goal they're no need to change LSD. Just my opinion.

Maintenance I did Nismo Diff cover, vent line, rear end bushings, and better grade fluid.

Infidel · 05-09-2015, 06:01 PM

I noticed an improvement when I switched from the crap Nissan calls VLSD to a Quaife when hauling azz around a certain round-about to and from work. I think it's worth the money, the VLSD is CRAP.

05-06-2015, 03:52 PM	#1 (permalink)
TerribleONE A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Socal Posts: 10,203 Drives: WOT Rep Power: 5852	If you aren't getting traction the power isn't usable. I cant even go WOT in 1-3rd when I am on my "kill tune". Hotrodz and KratikosG37 like this. __________________ 638WHP 541WTQ @ 13.5PSI Build thread

05-07-2015, 07:12 AM	#4 (permalink)
roplusbee A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Killeen, TX Posts: 2,360 Drives: 2007 350Z NISMO Rep Power: 24	The funny thing about this thread is that we were talking about maintaining a boosted beast of a Z. It doesn't matter how much power is usable or even how much power you are putting down. The things that matter are: 1. Are you allowing proper warm-up and cool-down cycles? 2. Are you regularly inspecting the items that you installed as well as the normal maintenance items? 3. Do you have a feeling for what it feels like when it is running right, so that you can feel if something is different? 4. Do you have things in place to monitor various functions that give you indications of problems? 5. If this is your first rodeo, have you done your research AND talked to the pros? I agree that stuff happens and you cannot prevent every failure, but you can do a lot to minimize the chances of it being catastrophic. These things seem like common sense to me, but everyone has their own opinion and/or perception of how things are. TerribleONE and KratikosG37 like this. __________________ 2007 350Z NISMO #0618: Zerolift \| UPREV \| F.I. \| Greddy \| Competition Clutch \| Injector Dynamics \| Aeromotive \| Pioneer \| JL

05-07-2015, 04:45 PM	#5 (permalink)
brucelidat A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: temple city, ca Posts: 2,432 Drives: 2011 370z 7AT GM Sp Rep Power: 32	Will the OEM sport package viscous LSD be able to put the power down or is a real LSD like quaife needed? __________________ Works Emotion CR Ultimate - FI CBE w/ 18" resonators - Ecutek - eibach sways - Quaife - FI LTH w/race cats - kw v3 - spl - Topgunz SC - 488whp 398trq

05-07-2015, 07:41 PM	#7 (permalink)
brucelidat A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: temple city, ca Posts: 2,432 Drives: 2011 370z 7AT GM Sp Rep Power: 32	Yeah, Tony mentioned Whiteline bushings. He said I'd be okay running 305s in the rear with the stock vlsd and the bushings. What do you guys think? __________________ Works Emotion CR Ultimate - FI CBE w/ 18" resonators - Ecutek - eibach sways - Quaife - FI LTH w/race cats - kw v3 - spl - Topgunz SC - 488whp 398trq

05-07-2015, 09:44 PM	#10 (permalink)
brucelidat A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: temple city, ca Posts: 2,432 Drives: 2011 370z 7AT GM Sp Rep Power: 32	Wonder if I can fit 265s up front to match the drop I will be getting from changing the rear tires. Man, hope I can make it out when Cycy pick sup his car so I can get a ride and help make my decision. __________________ Works Emotion CR Ultimate - FI CBE w/ 18" resonators - Ecutek - eibach sways - Quaife - FI LTH w/race cats - kw v3 - spl - Topgunz SC - 488whp 398trq

05-07-2015, 10:00 PM	#11 (permalink)
jwick A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Houston Posts: 14,532 Drives: '10 G37 6MT Rep Power: 2465058	Lot of Zs run 265 upfront __________________ '10 G37T 6MT Graphite/Graphite - BP - G37T Build

05-07-2015, 10:11 PM	#12 (permalink)
Rob298mx Base Member Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: NH Posts: 91 Drives: 2010 Nissan 370z Rep Power: 12	Just be weary that it will tram line like a mother trucker. Wide tires are awesome but damn I was shocked on how bad this thing pulled on the shitty roads __________________ 2010 Nissan 370z F.I. TT

05-09-2015, 09:52 AM	#13 (permalink)
roplusbee A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Killeen, TX Posts: 2,360 Drives: 2007 350Z NISMO Rep Power: 24	Well with regard to tire size choices, the G is a little different. I am going to go out on a limb and say that it can be done with the right suspension and a little convincing. With the stock LSD and such, I never had any issues. I don't drag race, nor have I had the Z on a circuit. The only arenas I have had the pleasure of attacking are private sessions on specific interesting roads and the awesome roads surrounding Fontana Village. If that isn't good enough of a test bed, I don't know what is. When it comes to suspension and driveline bits, I suggest you get to know how YOUR car behaves to YOUR driving style and current power level. If you recently installed a bunch of go fast bits, get used to her again and then determine what you need IF you need upgrades in that department. The general consensus is to do bushings and mounts, but even those are a case by case basis. I changed out my engine mounts, but left the transmission mount alone until I could determine the effectiveness of the change. Throwing parts at a car before you get a feel for it is just plain crazy and expensive (especially if you have to get something different). I learned that the hard way when I was into B12-B13 Sentras and S13 240SX Fastbacks. The key is only changing the things that make a positive impact on the area(s) that you feel are lacking in reference to the feedback you get with YOUR driving style. KratikosG37 likes this. __________________ 2007 350Z NISMO #0618: Zerolift \| UPREV \| F.I. \| Greddy \| Competition Clutch \| Injector Dynamics \| Aeromotive \| Pioneer \| JL

05-09-2015, 06:01 PM	#15 (permalink)
Infidel Enthusiast Member Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Central Florida Posts: 457 Drives: 2013 GM 6MT Rep Power: 16	I noticed an improvement when I switched from the crap Nissan calls VLSD to a Quaife when hauling azz around a certain round-about to and from work. I think it's worth the money, the VLSD is CRAP.

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