How To (in progress): Add Climate Seats to Coupe Models Without Splicing Stock Wiring

bstrubel

I tested the drivers seat and switch outside of the car (hooked up to my lawn tractor battery for power). The seats I got are supposedly from a 2012 roadster but the pinouts for the power seat motor was wrong (everything else was correct). Here is the configuration that got everything working.

Drivers Climate Seat Switch Pinout


Drivers Climate Seat Connector Pinout

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2009 370Z [Base/Sport/7AT]
2011 JGC Overland [Bilstein/stock spring swap]

bstrubel

Here is how I'm running the new drivers side switch harness I made (the big long harness sticking up in the pic). I'm trying to strike a balance between keeping things close to the factory wiring plan but also easy for me to access in the future (I don't trust my own work lol) if anything needs fixed. Rather then running the switch harness up to the dash area I decided to run it down by the side of the seat. I have it in a protective loom so I think it should be fine.



The battery power for the seat motors will be taken from the drivers fuse box as per the factory plan. Ignition switched power for the climate switches will also be taken from there as per factory plan.

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2009 370Z [Base/Sport/7AT]
2011 JGC Overland [Bilstein/stock spring swap]

bstrubel

Forgot to post this the other day...

If you use salvage 16 way connectors (Furukawa) for the seat you'll likely need to de-pin at least a few terminals as you'll end up with heavy gauge wire for signal pins and light gauge wire for power supply pins.

I could not find any videos on how to de-pin them but I have figured out a way that 60% of the time works every time.

Step 1) Buy some rando cheapie de-pinning tool set from the worlds biggest electronic flea market, Amazon. Make sure it includes at least one style de-pinning tool that looks almost like a big tongue depressor.

Step 2) Get your favorite metal material removal item (heavy grit sandpaper, file, whetstone, whatever) and file down the edges a bit so it'll easily fit in the back of the terminal. Next file down the top so you have a nice thin flat wedge type shape. (Stares at stab wound on thumb) It doesn't need to be super sharp, just thin.



Step 3) Pop open the front of the connector. Now use your thin wedge to try to wedge it between the connector and the mystery plastic tab as shown below. Give the wire a tug. It won't come out. Try again. Try five times. Swear a lot. Try again. If you get it right the terminal and wire should come out rather easily and you shouldn't have to pull hard.


Step 4) (Optional) Reward yourself with a tasty adult beverage.

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2009 370Z [Base/Sport/7AT]
2011 JGC Overland [Bilstein/stock spring swap]