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The hood I have coming out will be lighter...
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The stock fenders are 8 lbs. each.
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thanks for the info! rep'ed
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Just got the Relentless brake rotor kit in the mail. On my bathroom scale, they're weighing in at 19 lbs per front and 21 lbs per rear. I'll double-check that when I'm weighing the stock ones that come off.
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Minor seat-related updates: First post lists TPH seats as 47lbs. My measurements (w/ the factory seat rails still attached) is 47lbs passenger, and 50.8 lbs driver (more adjustable bits). Also, the Bride GIAS LowMax's I just picked up look like they're 42.2 lbs each fully assembled including the 370Z-specific adjustable (front-back sliding) rails, which is way off of the weight listed on the first post, not sure where that came from.
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Bride seats are light but the rails can be 20-30lbs alone which sucks. |
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OK time to talk about batteries again. Saw a little piece about these in grassroots motorsports magazine:
Mueller Motorwerks, LLC — Ballistic Performance Batteries The 12cell has more amp hours(20 vs 17Ah) than the popular Odyssey PC680. And it weighs 2.5lbs vs 15lbs. Pretty reasonable price for that too. |
Looks interesting. I think we won't know for sure till someone tries it. As they state in their own FAQs, it's just a very different battery technology than what you normally use in a car, so I'm not really sure the raw numbers compare directly. They do sell them as being applicable to motorcycles though, so I imagine they're alternator-compatible, etc. The cost/weight/size is amazing. Even the larger 16-cell one is only 3lbs and the size is approx a 4.5" cube.
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Those are great for track only motorcycles but will not hold up in a an everyday bike.
They are not designed for cars or engines over 1.8L/4Cyl as per the website: Batteries - Ballistic Performance Components My friend had the 12 cell on his 4 cyl 750cc for less than 4 months (weekend rider) and it died. Could not be brought back to life and when he tried to get it replaced they told him he should have bought the 16 cell. $260 down the drain. |
Well the PC680 isn't supposed to be able to start our engine either, but it does, so I think larger motorcycle batteries can work in general. That said, given the above, the Ballistic might only be suitable for a trailered track 370Z, with a charger hooked up between events.
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I've read this entire thread twice. I can't find the weights for stock 18" wheels and rotors and tires on the 2011 base coupe. I'm looking to upgrade all but need to know where I am currently. Any suggestions? I also went on the web to try and find these weights and struck out.
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http://www.the370z.com/wheels-tires/...ml#post1399169
Front 18" wheel = 21lb per wheel Front 18" tire = 29lb per tire Total weight = 50lb per |
Fast repsonse! Thanks. Must be because I'm new to the forum. : )
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The rear wheels and tires should be close to the same, weighing a little more. I can use this.
Does anyone have the stock coupe rotor weights (base coupe, not touring and not sport package)? |
I took off my front strut bar the other day, man that thing is hefty. Does anybody know of a lightweight aftermarket one that is reasonably priced? I think I read about a titanium version one, but I will not willing to pay 2k for it. Does anybody here run without it?
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You could run without it and Im still flirting with the idea myself. I know the turbo guys cant run with them due to the intercooler.
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Also, I believe there is brace underneath the car near the transmission. I think its there just to stiffen the chassis.... but I remember I took it off my 350z and it too was pretty heavy. Could save some weight there.
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Yea I wouldn't remove that though.
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when you say that the base seat weighs 42lbs, is that per seat or for both
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per seat
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Also why is this thread buried in the Brakes & Suspension Section ? |
Pretty sure that's for both from when I was handling mine.
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21 pounds is for both cats, because Stillen HFC are 11 pounds for 2, a savings of 10 pounds. Read that in either this thread or in another thread.
Question: Has anyone weighed either the front or rear bumpers? With all of the bumper swapping I would hope somebody has weighed them. I checked through this thread (again) and couldn't find bumper weights. |
Correction: Berk HFCs are 11 pounds/pair. Stillen might be also, but it was Berk that advertised that weight. Sorry.
Does anyone know if there is a tire weight website like the wheel weight site? |
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Just curious, but anyone know what the factory side mirrors weigh?
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After reading the first pages again I saw mention of lighter lug nuts.
It reminded me that on my Porsche 951 the wheel lugs are made of magnesium and are extremely light. So light that when I first took them off I was pretty impressed. I googled and found a few links: BLOX Lightweight Lug Nuts - Lug Nuts Lug Nuts |
Well I'm not gonna knock anyone for hyper-optimizing on weight, seeing as I do it a lot myself :), but the lightweight lugnuts really aren't a big deal. Sure they're rotating unsprung mass, but since they're way to the center they don't count as much as tires or the outer rim of the wheel itself. That and even "normal" short straight-through lugs aren't much heavier than lightweight alloy ones.
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I'm not sure if this was mentioned already in this thread, but anybody have the weights for the stock, stillen, whiteline, etc. sway bars (front & Back)?
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Have any of the buyers of the new MotorDyne Shockwave E370 exhaust weighed it before installing it? Or were you all too excited to get it on? Please post weight here if you did. Thanks!
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^ I think I read somewhere on here its about 10lbs lighter than the OEM exhaust.
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Has anybody heard of or used Tomioka lightweight batteries? They come in 6, 12, 15, 17 and 21lbs. I may buy one of these if I hear some good reviews on them. Pretty good weight savings..
Lightweight batteries - Products |
^ I'll have to research them. I can get the Odyessy batteries right down the street and always in stock. The Braille batteries, I've been hearing lots of bad crap with them.
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Both mfgs offer a range of weight tradeoffs of course, but honestly I'd be wary of going any smaller than about where the PC-680 is at, at least with AGM technology batteries (which both of these are). Maybe for dedicated, trailered race car you could go smaller, since you can always jump-start that easily. |
Wstar, what all is needed to relocate the battery to the rear, parts wise.
Have a few things I need done this month and might just let Baker handle it. |
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http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...tery-relo.html My first install was a real Home Depot Hackjob, but it worked fine. The second time around I did it right, and included a list for some of the smaller connectors/parts/etc as well: http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...ml#post1370569 Bottom line is: PC-680, some kind of PC-680-compatible hold-down/box, a bunch of 1/0-gauge welding cable, some slit ribbed plastic tubing to go over the cable to prevent nicks, and a lot of labor and small electrical parts :) This is the box I used: Odyssey battery aluminum hold down |
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