Ya, it's just easier to accelerate since less mass to move

I didn't read the entire thread and I know some of you guys may be using a titanium exhaust... but the ART pipes save 6.5 lbs (according to another users scale) and the cat bracket doesn't go back in there and it FEELS like it weighs 2-3 lbs at least... though I can't confirm it... just saying for those who can't afford a ti exhaust set-up that over stock it would save close to 10 lbs... and then the F.I. exhaust saves another 10 lbs if I remember correctly from the first page. Don't know if this helps at all, but maybe someone.

Have any drag racers tried running skinny tires on the front? I was wondering about the possibility of using 2 of the stock spare wheels, with upgraded rubber on them. I know the tires are not designed for high speed use, but I figure if you replace that, there is nothing wrong with those wheels themselves, right?

Z elim did that. He has a pic of it in his Sig.

A friend of mine recently showed me these batteries:
MOTY Design 12 cell lightweight motorcycle battery
Designed for bikes, but pretty most of these super lightweight batteries people are running in their cars are designed for bikes too. The person that told me about these is running a 4 cell and a 12 cell in two different bikes and is pretty happy with them. He claims that the 12 cell started his corvette no problem. If 12 cells isn't enough there's also the 16 cell

MOTY Design 16 cell lightweight motorcycle battery
These use the relatively new and rare LiFePO4 (Lithium Iron Phosphate) battery chemistry which is the same type of cells used to power the killacycle, worlds fastest electric motorcycle.

Granted these have a total energy capacity of about 40%(12cell) and 54%(16cell) that of the popular Odyssey PC680, based on their advertised Amp hour ratings. Not sure how common it is to run down a PC680, but I guess these would be that much easier to do so with these.

Anyone wanna be a guinea pig? :happydance:

Extremely light... but no

I have just read all every post in this thread and I still don't know what battery to get b/c everyone is going back in forth on the PC680. Trickle charge, affected by weather, use of the battery. It has been a long time since this thread was started, has anybody been using the PC680 or something else for a daily driver?

It's fine for daily driver, i used it as such in 2009... just invest $45 in a trickle charger and put that on if you ever leave the car sitting for more than a week

I've been on a PC680 on a DD for a long time now. It's been in the car a little over 2 years now and I still haven't had to replace it. In some ways my install is a worst-case scenario: mounted all the way in the rear of the car, so maximum positive cable run length, and on a Stillen 20% underdriven crank pulley. Just a few months ago (right about the 2 year mark) I upgraded my alternator pulley to NST's 10% overdriven one to help the battery recharge better a bit.

In the overall, it works fine. You do have to be more conscientious about battery drain though. If you drain the battery with the engine off (e.g. running the radio a long time, playing with the power windows and seats continuously, leaving the headlights on , etc), you will make the car unstartable until you jump it or recharge it.

Odyssey's OMAX-6A-1B charger is a pretty good investment to go with the PC680. You can install a permanent quick-connect header at the battery (I ran mine through the trunk floor so it's accessible outside the car with the trunk closed) to make it easy to hook up. It's great for maintaining the battery if the car is off a long time, and it knows exactly the charging profiles to use to max out the PC680. Even if I haven't been abusing my battery, I hook it up once every week or two just to let it top off the battery (it does a better job than the alternator does).

Well there you go.

it's tempting to do it because you can lose a lot of weight with that simple mod, but to me it's such a PITA when your OE battery will be lasting a whole lot longer than the 2 or so years people are getting out of some of the smaller batteries. If I were racing, this would certainly be one of the first things to get changed... but i'm not.

has anyone weighed the speakers or stock radio?

they are heavy! weighs exactly 17 pounds :)

:ninja3:

I didn't break out exact weights, but I did some basic math with me standing a bathroom scale holding all of it together (the non-navigation Bose head unit + metal brackets, the main Bose amplifier unit, the 6 speakers) and it came out somewhere around 17 lbs. This doesn't include: the XM Radio + Bluetooth + Voice modules in the center of the car (removed long ago, didn't weigh, probably like 2-3 lbs), the XM Radio antenna from the top of the car (probably 0.5 lbs or less), the subwoofer (already gone, previously documented at 8lbs). Also doesn't include all the audio wiring (I left those in my car for now, may remove later). Even if you got all the wiring, we're probably talking like 30-32 lbs max for everything audio related on a Touring w/o Nav car.

lol at edit

I haven't removed anything and have my Nismo down to 3160 lbs with about 1/4 tank of gas and spare out. just upgraded a few parts.

Aluminum hat rotors, Berk HFC, WedsSport 18 wheels, braille battery, OSGiken LSD, JRZ coil overs

Maybe I missed it in the thread but how much does stock flywheel and clutch weigh?

Do the chassis dampers really work or are they dead weight for a track car? How much do those things weigh?

Is there nonfunctional weight that you can pull that won't greatly impact function of a daily driver? Looking for weight I can pull from front of the car mostly.

How much does stock Nismo steering wheel with airbag weigh?

Is the glass in the stock windshield the lightest you can use? Is there aftermarket glass that is lighter?

Really depends on your comfort limit for a DD. You've already done a lot of the easy things. Random recommendations that may or may not suit you:

*) Lightweight racing seats. Pretty expensive, but they reduce weight and also generally lower the center of gravity. Some of them are comfortable enough for DD use, although I'm not so sure about really long road trips.

*) If you don't care about audio, you could remove all of the audio stuff as discussed a few posts up.

*) Windshield washer reservoir can be removed to take a little weight out of the front passenger corner. TBH it doesn't weigh a whole lot though, you'd get nearly the same benefit just emptying it out and leaving it dry instead of lugging around a gallon of water up there.

*) There's a heavy metal weight on the underside of the rear lip of the trunk lid that can be removed. It's just there to balance with the struts to make the lid easier to open/close with minimal force. It's under the plastic and pretty easy to reach.

*) Switching to a set of straight braided brake lines (like CZP's) removes a bunch of factory mounting brackets/bolts/etc for the stock brake lines. I don't think I ever weighed it all, but it's a few lbs of unnecessary unsprung weight.

*) If you're not concerned about emissions testing, the FI Long Tube Headers cut some weight vs stock manifolds + cats.

Yeah the bride seats I got are just fine for me for DD. I made sure to get carbon kevlar seats that are still two piece and adjustable - opposed to 1 piece shells.

I forgot to let you sit in them wstar, I was hoping for an opinion :)

The flywheel with dampner is about 30.9lbs from what I read elsewhere. On avg. a aftermarket flywheel is about 17lbs due to it doesn't use a dampner. Course you'll get more chatter. But who cares?

So far as glass I know a couple guys have used Lexon glass. It's defiantly lighter. You'll have to read up on it so far a durability and all. This way you can gets some tear aways.:icon17:

I asked these guys to make a 370Z specific windshield but haven't heard back from them... maybe if they heard from a few more folks

SpeedGlass Racing Windshields - Percy's High Performance

May not be street legal, not DOT approved

Scratch that....

these guys are hooking me up

Contact SHIELDS

They have three different thicknesses, and it is measured to fit the 370z exactly

It's not a bad price at all. What would be a recommended thickness? Or does it really matter. I would still drive on the road with it. I'm not DD but am a weekend warrior.

I'm thinking 3/8"s but going to ask around myself...

another reminder, these are not street legal

Nither is every other mod on my car.:icon17: But I know what your pointing out though. It probably is a bad idea for me.

it's your decision, i'm not trying to be preachy... really just for other people's fyi, so they know what they're getting in to if they do this... polycarb does not 'forgive' if your head crashes into it the way a windshield does - that's the key issue

I agree.

I received the following weight information from Seibon today...

Trunk: 16 lbs
Hood: 18 lbs
Fenders: 7 lbs each

... corresponding to these part #s

Trunk: TL0910NS370HB
Hood: HD0910NS370-VSII
Fender (each): FF0910NS370

... so now we need someone to weigh the stock parts... trunk will need to be weighed without the glass, if possible... or if not possible, I can weigh my rear glass separately

Not sure about the other stuff, but according to the OP, the OEM hood is 16lbs. It's already light because its aluminum I think.

All this CF **** is just for looks, no one makes them with weight in mind. Nobody ever posts the weights of their CF products(you have to specifically ask) because there is no weight savings.

if you dont mind where did that 16lbs come from ? its not posted on the first page of the post

I realize on the hood... I may end up just hacking up the OEM hood to get weight off and improve air flow

The fenders have the best shot of generating some weight savings... would be helpful for someone to weigh the OEM fenders

That's what I want to do is cut the OEM hood. But UAM might know about the weight of the fenders for the work with them.

Yeah, it is. Try ctrl-f "hood".

That is because companies are making half a$$ parts.
A lot of CF parts are fiberglass or other product wrapped in CF which in ends up weighting the same as OEM parts. Dry carbon will shave a lot of weight, for a hood our sizes in dry carbon should weight in under 10lbs, but dry carbon is very expensive (our hood would cost 2k+).

Agreed... functionally, the market should buy either fiberglass only or dry carbon only...

The fact that CF wrapped fiberglass is what sells, says a lot about what is motivating buyers

I have heard that seibon will occasionally produce its parts in fiberglass only... haven't seen those parts for our car yet

They have produced a dry carbon hood for our car, per the website, but no info on weight and it is just an OEM hood so no extra venting.

I'm not looking for lexan or plexiglas windows. This is a daily driver. There are some after market glass windows that are actually lighter weight than some stock windshields. Old Porsche trick.

And I'm looking for more esoteric weight reduction opportunities for a street prepared class autocross car. I know how to strip a race car down. Here is my old 2000 lb Boxster.:tiphat:

http://www.gotcone.com/pgallery/imag...p/img_4479.jpg

Shamu, looks so small without a top, lol

miata even!

I like

Don't let me get my hands on a rolled 370z roadster! Lol!

I did not get the weights of my stock fenders when I had them off, but just by feel my CF fenders are a lot heavier. The stock fenders look like popped aluminium off of the car, they felt as thin as bubble gum wrapper lol. I will ask the guy who got them off me to weigh them when he gets a chance.