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Fused Ceramic 6 Puck to flywheel?

Originally Posted by DIGItonium Did you end up with a new flywheel and pressure plate? Mine wasn't as bad, but there were pieces of the material stuck to the flywheel.

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Old 09-24-2013, 04:29 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Did you end up with a new flywheel and pressure plate? Mine wasn't as bad, but there were pieces of the material stuck to the flywheel. It was resurfaced. The pressure plate remained. It's weird when I modulate the clutch pedal in reverse it feels and sounds like the clutch disk clapping with the flywheel. It won't hold pressure consistently or something. I'm running the full face ceramic.
I got the flywheel resurfaced and got a new pressure plate. They took off 0.008" off the surface of the flywheel to get it true again. Could it be that your pressure plate deformed a bit from the heat as well? Mind you you think that if that was the case its holding power would drop off considerably.
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Old 09-24-2013, 04:34 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Turn up the boost and try a 3rd gear launch now....
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Old 01-11-2018, 03:24 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Just had a South bend stage 3.5 clutch fuze to the flywheel as well... Any suggestions on a better clutch? I plan on giving Joe at Zspeed a call
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Old 01-11-2018, 03:54 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Just had a South bend stage 3.5 clutch fuze to the flywheel as well... Any suggestions on a better clutch? I plan on giving Joe at Zspeed a call
ATS twin disk or OSG twin disk
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Old 01-11-2018, 04:11 PM   #35 (permalink)
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It was a full face ceramic single disk rated to 600tq. I'm at 490tq
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Old 01-11-2018, 05:52 PM   #36 (permalink)
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It was a full face ceramic single disk rated to 600tq. I'm at 490tq


Isn't the clutch rated for flywheel torque? 490 at the wheels is damn close to 600 at the crank.
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Old 01-11-2018, 06:37 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Isn't the clutch rated for flywheel torque? 490 at the wheels is damn close to 600 at the crank.
I believe you're right. I bought the clutch from someone on here who was running a stage 2 fast intentions twin turbo kit. He had no problems and had more power than me. I'm guessing he didn't beat on his car much
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Old 01-16-2018, 11:25 AM   #38 (permalink)
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The full face ceramic (not 6 puck ceramics) are more prone to fuse with a lot of slippping/abuse. If you throw enough heat at metal it will melt and can fuse.
True 6 puck style disk have a lot more open area to let the material cool, full face designs don't have as much area between the pucks for cooling so they will build more heat when slipping albeit they tend to drive slightly better for ceramics.

It can happen with any metallic type clutch material if it gets hot enough to melt the material.

You should never slip a clutch more than a second or 2. It is building a ton of heat during this time and wearing the clutch very quickly as well. Heat is the enemy of any clutch. Heat wears the material faster, It can also cause the diaphragm spring to lose tension/force if over heated enough times dropping the clamp load down.

If you do a hard launch with slicks etc and the clutch builds too much heat instantly and doesn't hold you can end up in the same boat as the clutch will slip under its full clamp force which really builds the heat quickly.

A properly rated clutch for your application should hold on a hard launch, It is best to side step a puck style clutch quickly rather than slipping it out of the hole (Caution, danger to drivetrain)

Slipping a clutch at high RPM out of the hole for a smooth launch is the worst thing you can do to a clutch. Yes drag cars slip their clutches out of the hole, They actually set them up to slip for the perfect launch but they use materials designed for this and rebuild them after every run!
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