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Possible Nissan OEM clutch system issue - Everyone Read

Raul, about a week ago I had a 100% stock 370 in the shop, It had 1st gr "lurch" , but only if depress the clutch and immediately throw it

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Old 09-07-2011, 02:02 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Raul, about a week ago I had a 100% stock 370 in the shop, It had 1st gr "lurch" , but only if depress the clutch and immediately throw it into 1st gr. If you wait a second longer it won't lurch at all. I totally agree the trans in our car is a moody bitch, but some how the one in my car is perfect, no "lurch" or grinds and you know I beat the hell out of it ...steady power shifting!
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Old 10-26-2011, 03:38 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by jnaut View Post
Raul, about a week ago I had a 100% stock 370 in the shop, It had 1st gr "lurch" , but only if depress the clutch and immediately throw it into 1st gr. If you wait a second longer it won't lurch at all. I totally agree the trans in our car is a moody bitch, but some how the one in my car is perfect, no "lurch" or grinds and you know I beat the hell out of it ...steady power shifting!
As I suspected, there is no problem with the car. When you have the transmission in neutral and the clutch is engaged, everything in the transmission is spinning EXCEPT the output shaft.

That means that all those gears are doing what, 700rpm (I don't know what a 370Z idles at)?

As many of you have noted, the transmission can handle some power. I have taken a look at pictures of the gears online, and they are not puny. They have some mass to 'em.

Then you put it in first and the output shaft is engaged.

Guess what? All the inertia of that transmissions internals spinning at 700rpm hits the rear end as the output shaft comes into play.

Of course it's going to roll forward a foot or two if you whip it from neutral to first. To test this, why don't you crank the car and KEEP the clutch fully depressed. Then shift to neutral, NEVER RELEASING THE CLUTCH, keep it there 60 seconds, and shift into 1st. I bet dollars to doughnuts 0 lurch. Now put it back in neutral, let the clutch out, and after 3 or 4 seconds stab the clutch and jam second. Roll.

*This is as far as I have read in this thread, so if someone already said all this jazz, sorry to re-hash.
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Old 10-26-2011, 11:19 AM   #3 (permalink)
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The tranny in every car I've owned has had it's own personality.

72 Ford Capri 2.0L - Worked great, fast shifting flawless 4 spd
72 Porshe 914 - Super finiky, needed light touch whenever it wasn't redlined, flawless when shifted at redline. To go into first, need to be at dead stop and put it into sencond gear first. Then a whip over to the left and down on the shift knob.
71 240Z - Flawless tranny - Abused the hell out of it for over 100k, driveline started loosening up from all the U-Joint replacements
69 Corvette - Super-T10 tranny - Semi-finiky, needed to be shifted slow or it would grind.
96 Tacoma - Need to be gentle, about the same as the Vette
2011 370Z - Little bit mor finiky than the Vette. Ultra slow shift and does not like to be put into first between 0-10 mph while on the breaks. (it clunks)

Your tranny is like a woman, figure out how she likes it and then give it to her.

I've only broke 1 tranny, the main gear came out the side of the casing... DOH! (friend's 68 camero with indy tranny) What a POS!

Last edited by B&W_Evader; 10-26-2011 at 11:21 AM.
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