Is a juddery clutch common?

fisherg

I rent 10 cars a year or more in Europe and most are manuals (Fords, VW's, Citroens, Renaults etc..). Most of those clutches are like pushing on a pillow but I would never want that in my "Z". You need to have a clutch that has resistance and you know is there. That said the stock clutch should be relatively free of shudder when engaging on startup. I'm not sure but I think the assembly tolerances required for this car are pretty tight perhaps tighter than can be maintained to ensure consistent jitter free operation from unit to unit. That said nearly all of these cars run fine at delivery and will likely not experience premature wear but its clear that its not perfect.

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THE OPEN ROAD IS WAITING.....Solid Red Touring 370ZR w/Navi

IDZRVIT

Do you see why some us say that some can't handle a manual? I didn't have these problems and my manual is the same as all the others.

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"America.... still builds rockets!"
Vette: 355 cid, 400 rwhp
'13 CTS-V Coupe: 6.2L LSA, 556HP

Xan

I never said the manual is as smooth as driving a Camry, but you also have to realize there is a bit more torque that needs to go through the drivetrain then in your family sedan...

And I'm not claiming to be a race car driver, far from it, but my clutch really makes no sound what so ever when I shift gears, nor has my car stalled. And I certainly don't rev the engine higher....

Now there is also the fact, that not all are alike. I have heard the same aftermarket clutch in two different cars, where one would be quite and the other would be loud.
Both seem to have no installment issues... that said, a little lubrication goes a long way.... and that could be the case when they put our transmission together as well.

Here is another article that might shed some light as to why some people are experiencing more judder then others...

There are a large number of problems that can cause clutch judder (originally a British term). The problem generally happens when your car is at a complete stop and you engage the clutch. The clutch jerks, alternately gripping and slipping when you let the pedal out. Judder is not only an irritation, but a safety hazard as well.

Parts of the Clutch
A clutch is made up of three different parts: (1) The clutch disk is the "sticky" part of the assembly, which transfers the engine's power from the fly wheel to (2) the pressure plate, which connects to the transmission. (3) The release bearing connects to the clutch pedal, and it unites or separates the other two pieces as necessary. Any of these parts can interrupt the chain of power transfer, and cause the clutch to judder.

Distortion
If the pressure plate gets overheated--perhaps from letting your foot rest on the clutch pedal, constantly causing the contact between the plate and the disk to change--hot spots can form that warp the pressure plate, or the disk can wear unevenly. Once this happens, consistent contact is impossible. Likewise, if the plate gets bent during assembly, or if the flywheel was resurfaced unevenly, it will not apply pressure consistently when it is engaged against the disk. A warped clutch disk can have the same effect; uneven wear patterns will cause slippage. Incorrectly-torqued screws can distort components also.

Drivetrain Misalignment
Anything that gets the "line of transmission" off-center can cause problems. On the motor side of things, defective motor mounts can allow the motor to angle slightly, or a misaligned flywheel can cause a wobbling effect as it rotates. On the transmission side of the clutch assembly, similar problems could include bad transmission mounts, bent transmission tie bars, bad or misaligned U-joints or a driveshaft installed at too sharp an angle to the transmission.

Contamination
Sometimes oil or dirt can get on the face of the pressure plate, creating slick spots that grab for a moment before losing traction against the clutch disk. The clutch disk can also get contaminated, as it is generally made from the same materials as your brake pads. Oil and grease can also contaminate rubber mounts. If the rubber softens, it will deform and allow excessive movement and/or misalignment.

Defective Parts
While it is not as likely as some of the other causes of clutch judder, you could simply have a part that was defective from the start. A small percentage of defects during manufacture is inevitable, and even the best inspection system will not catch them all. Besides the obvious possibility of a distorted pressure plate or clutch disk, the moving parts of the release bearing should also be checked.

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Fountainhead

In the early morning when cold, my clutch seems to "judder" when I release but after a 1/4 mile or so it seems to loosen up. Think it's a temperature thing. I'll be the first to admit the manual in the Z is a learning experience for sure. It doesn't like to be babied, I can tell you that. It seems to say "harder, faster" every time I shift it.

6MT

This thread is getting saucy!

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Andrew

2009 370Z Sport/Touring 6MT sold
2013 Honda Civic Si coupe D/D

onzedge

I am not so sure we all should be boasting about our having "driven stick" for x number of years. In prison, we had an entirely different take on that expression and it was something you kept to yourself.

Oh, and I learned how to drive (legally) in a 1967 Volkswagen VW Type III Fastback (manual) in 1975. I have owned manual transmission cars since (Datsuns and Nissans). I have zero problem or concern with the 6MT in the 370.

Come out here and drive my 71 240Z with a Centerforce Stage 3. Now that takes a little finesse. The 370? Piece of cake.

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Koni|Swift|Michelin|Motordyne|Berk|RJM Performance|Gates|SPL|Motul|Technafit|Ate Super Blue|Hawk
Tommy Kaira|Momo|Optima|Hella|Hotchkis|Red Line|ZSpeed|Stillen|B&M|H&R

IDZRVIT

I have a Center Force DFX in my 'vette. Finesse could be an understatement but it sure as hell grabs!

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"America.... still builds rockets!"
Vette: 355 cid, 400 rwhp
'13 CTS-V Coupe: 6.2L LSA, 556HP

onzedge

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Koni|Swift|Michelin|Motordyne|Berk|RJM Performance|Gates|SPL|Motul|Technafit|Ate Super Blue|Hawk
Tommy Kaira|Momo|Optima|Hella|Hotchkis|Red Line|ZSpeed|Stillen|B&M|H&R

Zerocool

Yeah? well I've been driving stick for 101 years now. I even taught the stig how heel and toe.


My experience > all of yours, suckkkkkerrrrrs

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onzedge

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Koni|Swift|Michelin|Motordyne|Berk|RJM Performance|Gates|SPL|Motul|Technafit|Ate Super Blue|Hawk
Tommy Kaira|Momo|Optima|Hella|Hotchkis|Red Line|ZSpeed|Stillen|B&M|H&R

Drex

Clutch pedal too soft/no feel? Remove the helper spring!

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2011 Nissan 370z | 6MT | Magnetic Black | Sport Package

MacCool

Most likely, this "shuddering" is technique. My 2011 never did that, but it was a rather abrupt shift and hard to drive smoothly. I didn't install the helper spring I bought, but I do note that Nissan upgraded the clutch pedal on the 2014 model. My new 2014 Z engages smooth as silk and the 1st - 2nd shift is likewise much smoother than my 2011 was.

6MT

I taught Ayrton Senna how to drive!


Edit: btw, IBTL

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Andrew

2009 370Z Sport/Touring 6MT sold
2013 Honda Civic Si coupe D/D

The BlueMax

I have been driving manual trans. for most of my life and I have stalled out the 370 more than any other car. I don’t like to rev much in 1st gear because you shouldn’t have to but its a combination of left leg release speed & accelerator engagement that determines a smooth start, sometimes neither is well timed. When this car is cold it doesn’t like a quick 2nd gear exchange either.

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The Blue Max

MacCool

The problem, the reason, and the solution all in one post.