Car will not start after tuning

ShadowJester6

Neat. Those would appear to be the cruise control and clutch pedal switches that I had tested. Never thought about the adjustment for them. The tests I did should have ruled them out as the problem. I've got nothing to lose playing with them some more though. I'll report back with any findings.

Spooler

You need to fully depress the clutch pedal to make sure it is closing the push pin all the way. If it is a little bit off, It will not make the contact close. Only then will the clutch inhibitor relay work properly if our car even has one. The older Nissans have for years. Fixed a many...

Rusty

The one for the cruise control on my Z needs adjusted. My cruise is hit or miss. Depends on how I bring the clutch pedal back.

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SonicVQ

I went back to the beginning and re-read everything and I have a few thoughts:

• If you are in the car and don't depress the clutch, press the Start button once.
• Do you hear the steering wheel unlock?
• Does the start button illuminate "Acc" ?

If the steering wheel doesn't unlock, the engine will not start or turnover.


• When troubleshooting unusual problems (like this one!) you can't assume anything. I think you should check for 12v at the "S Connector" wire at the starter and at the IPDM/ER, when someone pushes the start button.

If you want to get the engine to crank over to verify the starter, you could:
• Remove the fuel pump fuse (in IPDM/ER)
• At the starter, disconnect the small wire on the S terminal
• Use a long wire (ideally with a 5-10 amp fuse inline with it) to run from the battery positive terminal and touch the S terminal on the starter.
• Engine should crank only for as long as you are touching the S terminal with 12v.

ShadowJester6

Thanks for the response.

To address your first thought, no. There is no steering wheel lock at all. Nissan stopped installing them in 2011. I have confirmed that there is no module at all under the steering wheel, the fuse is non-existent in the IPDM E/R fuse box, and the wheel does not lock at all.

For your next thought, the start button works as normal. Both the old and new one. If the clutch pedal is NOT depressed, and the start button pressed once, it turns "acc" on". Press a second time and it shifts to "on". A third press turns the car off. Everything in that respect appears perfectly operational. When the clutch pedal IS depressed, it hops across "acc" for less than a second and stops on "on". This is usually where the starter would be engaged and the engine turns over. But as far as the start button goes, everything tests normal.

I have assumed nothing. You may have misread previous posts. I have tested for the 12V going to the starter "S" terminal at multiple locations. It is GOOD going INTO the starter control relay. I have tested pin 80 LEAVING the IPDM E/R (because I can't test the relay directly while it is installed). No 12V.

I appreciate your input for jumping the starter. But as stated, the starter has been tested and is fully operational. It is just receiving the signal to allow it to turn over. I also stated in my last post I COULD jump the starter, but due to all the electrical fuckery going on in this car, I wouldn't be surprised if more stuff breaks tryign out that test.

SonicVQ

Sorry for misunderstanding about the starter wire.
It sounds like the fuses, power and wiring are ok...

Does the BCM code B26E8 still come back after clearing it?
The FSM is states (2016 370z BCS-98) that a B26E8 code will "Inhibit engine cranking"

ShadowJester6

No problem. There's so much going on in this mess of a starting system. I am constantly second guessing and rechecking everything over and over.

The code does return. FSM says that it is the clutch interlock switch. Unfortunately, I believe this to be one of those very vague codes that could be many different issues. If you trace that schematic, I've traced the 12V from the battery, through the clutch interlock, through the BCM, to the IPDM E/R fuse box, and through the fuse box up until the starter control relay (which is not closing as it is not receiving the necessary signal to close the relay). I believe the code is being thrown because the starter control relay is not receiving the signal to shut. Unfortunately, I have no way of knowing where and why that signal is being lost.

redondoaveb

Have you tried to bump start it or with the electrical fuckery going on you don't want to try that?

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Spooler

You have a stumper going on. I have dealt with one like this. It was a burn't connector in the main harness. You will need to trace every wire going to and from the clutch inhibitor switch at the clutch pedal and ohm them out. You can try to jump the switch and see if it will crank that way.

SonicVQ

I think the DTC name: "Clutch interlock switch" may be misleading...
What if the ASCD / cruise control clutch cancel switch is sticking for 2.1 seconds???

When you read the DTC detection condition is says:
Detects that ASCD cancel switch is in the ON position for 2 seconds or more while ignition switch and clutch interlock switch are ON.

This is saying the ECM can't verify clutch pedal position, because both clutch pedal switches are ON.

The "ASCD cancel switch" (which is also called the clutch pedal position switch) is on the clutch pedal and is closed when the clutch is fully up. This is the switch that turns off the cruise control when we tap the clutch pedal.

As you know, the other clutch pedal switch is closed when the clutch pedal is fully depressed. This is called the "clutch interlock switch"

To test:
• unplug the ASCD cancel switch (this tells ECU that the clutch pedal is not at the top)
• unplug and short out the clutch interlock connector. This tells the BCM that the clutch pedal is at the floor.
• make sure the car is in neutral and/or press the clutch down
• try to start the car.

I had a similar issue on a Mazda 3 and the fix was to replace the switch... What was VERY interesting is that the switch was made by Nissan!

ShadowJester6

I don't know if I mentioned it before, but I've done that test as well. I hit the start button without touching the clutch to turn "acc" power on which will wake up all the computers and let them know it's go time. I then unplug the cruise control switch and left it to simulate the clutch pedal leaving breaking the circuit. And finally, I unplugged the clutch interlock switch and jumped it. No change. I then used the start button to cycle power a few times as I heard rumors of there being a time limit between all of the switches opening and closing. Still nothing.

SonicVQ

Crap!! I was hoping for better news.

The next step is to view what the BCM "sees" for the clutch pedal position.
Luckily, this doesn't require a Consult III+, but just a a cheap OBD scanner ($20), OBD Fusion ($7-14) and their $14 OEM Diagnostic add on.

With this app, you can connect to the BCM and view the clutch pedal switch status. You have checked the switches, BUT that doesn't mean the BCM sees the required criteria to crank/start the engine.

Here is a screen shot from my G37 Sport (6 speed manual) with the clutch pedal on the floor and fully released.



Any interest in pursuing this?

Attached Images

1.jpg (101.1 KB, 135 views)

Spooler

I remember that Quest van well. I was out sick with 104 deg fever back in 1999. When I finally dragged my beat to death butt into work 3 days later that van was sitting in my bay. Service manager said I don't care what you do today, just fix that van. I felt rough. Customers were raising the roof. I brought the burn connector I replaced to him to give to the customer. Electrical gremlins can be tough. Hang in there.

SonicVQ

The HVAC U1000 CAN Bus code shouldn't prevent the car from being started, worst case no A/C.

What is your next step?

ShadowJester6

At this point, probably sell the car for scrap metal.

I do have suspicion that the BCM is at fault. But not only do I not wish to pay for a new one, I would have to take the whole car to Nissan (three hours away) to have the new BCM rekeyed or to get a new sets of FOBs to match the new BCM. The only logical thing I can think of is the tuning upset something inside of the BCM which is causing the BCM to stick in a "no start" condition, though nothing about this problem has been logical so far.