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Originally Posted by vtec to vvel Bump - anyone? Originally Posted by vtec to vvel Reviving an old thread of mine. Still haven't cleaned the TB's and will most likely

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Old 11-16-2020, 10:06 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Bump - anyone?
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Originally Posted by vtec to vvel View Post
Reviving an old thread of mine. Still haven't cleaned the TB's and will most likely need to complete, as my car now shuts off when starting her up and gives the same MAF code. MAF's have been cleaned earlier this year.

Just a few more questions I thought of before proceeding:

1. What are the torque specs for installing the strut bar back on?
2. Torque specs for when re-installing the TB's?
3. Just wanted to confirm to use the star patter when re-installing the TB's?
4. Would the re-learn/calibration procedures be completed immediately after putting the TB's back on without turning the vehicle on or should this be completed after driving around after cleaning the TB?

*Tried searching the forum but couldn't find this info.
I mean....if you really want my opinion...

1. Doesn't matter, tight.
2. Doesn't matter, medium-tight.
3. Doesn't matter.
4. This I don't know, I would assume this only matters if you were physically forcing the butterfly valves to move which seems stupid at best. Just spray a healthy amount of throttle body cleaner and gently wipe everything off with a paper towel. It won't be perfectly clean but it'll get it 90-95% better, which is good enough.

I've taken these throttle bodies off maybe a dozen times at this point, don't over think it. You'd have to do something hilariously stupid to harm anything.
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Old 11-16-2020, 10:45 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Talking

When installing and tightening up the strut bar. Have the tires sitting on the ground when you tighten up the nuts. If you have to car jacked up and tires off the ground. You can have a slight twist in the chassis.
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Old 11-17-2020, 10:10 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I mean....if you really want my opinion...

1. Doesn't matter, tight.
2. Doesn't matter, medium-tight.
3. Doesn't matter.
4. This I don't know, I would assume this only matters if you were physically forcing the butterfly valves to move which seems stupid at best. Just spray a healthy amount of throttle body cleaner and gently wipe everything off with a paper towel. It won't be perfectly clean but it'll get it 90-95% better, which is good enough.

I've taken these throttle bodies off maybe a dozen times at this point, don't over think it. You'd have to do something hilariously stupid to harm anything.
1. Subjective
2. Subjective
3. Subjective
4. Though I may be overthinking this, after hours of research and youtube vids, it appears most people take the TBs off and clean both sides of the butterfly valve, which also shows them opening/closing for the cleaning. So now I feel like I've taken a step behind on whether moving the valve is safe.

Number's 1 to 3 are subjective; what might seem to be tight to you may not be tight to me, and vice versa. Need actual torque specs.
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Old 11-18-2020, 01:11 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Number's 1 to 3 are subjective; what might seem to be tight to you may not be tight to me, and vice versa. Need actual torque specs.


Tight is relative to the bolt. Your strength and tools are variables that you need to be able to adjust for. If you are weak and use a 3/4 inch sized socket with a 36 inch breaker bar you're likely to break off the bolt head without any effort at all.

Struts bar bolts and nuts torque to 52 Nm. This isn't some critical number. Just make sure they are tight.

Throttle body bolts torque to 8.43 Nm. Don't want to over torque these too much.

Also, #3 isn't a number. The answer is it doesn't matter the pattern. Just torque them down evenly.
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Old 11-18-2020, 06:43 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by TacoSport10 View Post
I had a random limp mode on my car that got more common mid this year. About a month ago I removed the MAFS and cleaned them, and then cleaned the TB’s with them in still. Didn’t disconnect the battery and didn’t have to relearn anything. On first start it did take a few seconds to start, but it’s been almost a month since I’ve cleaned my MAFS and TB and I haven’t had the limp mode come back.
I have a '13 also and seems like limp is becoming more common. Did you move the butterfly valve at all when cleaning the TBs?

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Originally Posted by SouthArk370Z View Post
Torque specs are in the FSM (link in my sig).
Thank you sir!

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Originally Posted by JARblue View Post


Tight is relative to the bolt. Your strength and tools are variables that you need to be able to adjust for. If you are weak and use a 3/4 inch sized socket with a 36 inch breaker bar you're likely to break off the bolt head without any effort at all.

Struts bar bolts and nuts torque to 52 Nm. This isn't some critical number. Just make sure they are tight.

Throttle body bolts torque to 8.43 Nm. Don't want to over torque these too much.

Also, #3 isn't a number. The answer is it doesn't matter the pattern. Just torque them down evenly.

Testing you to see if you actually read my posts lol you passed!
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