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Originally Posted by vtec to vvel Bump - anyone? Originally Posted by vtec to vvel Reviving an old thread of mine. Still haven't cleaned the TB's and will most likely
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#1 (permalink) | |
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1. Doesn't matter, tight. 2. Doesn't matter, medium-tight. 3. Doesn't matter. 4. This I don't know, I would assume this only matters if you were physically forcing the butterfly valves to move which seems stupid at best. Just spray a healthy amount of throttle body cleaner and gently wipe everything off with a paper towel. It won't be perfectly clean but it'll get it 90-95% better, which is good enough. I've taken these throttle bodies off maybe a dozen times at this point, don't over think it. You'd have to do something hilariously stupid to harm anything. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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When installing and tightening up the strut bar. Have the tires sitting on the ground when you tighten up the nuts. If you have to car jacked up and tires off the ground. You can have a slight twist in the chassis.
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#3 (permalink) | |
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2. Subjective 3. Subjective 4. Though I may be overthinking this, after hours of research and youtube vids, it appears most people take the TBs off and clean both sides of the butterfly valve, which also shows them opening/closing for the cleaning. So now I feel like I've taken a step behind on whether moving the valve is safe. Number's 1 to 3 are subjective; what might seem to be tight to you may not be tight to me, and vice versa. Need actual torque specs. |
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![]() Tight is relative to the bolt. Your strength and tools are variables that you need to be able to adjust for. If you are weak and use a 3/4 inch sized socket with a 36 inch breaker bar you're likely to break off the bolt head without any effort at all. Struts bar bolts and nuts torque to 52 Nm. This isn't some critical number. Just make sure they are tight. Throttle body bolts torque to 8.43 Nm. Don't want to over torque these too much. Also, #3 isn't a number. The answer is it doesn't matter the pattern. Just torque them down evenly.
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