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Help: Transmission symptom after new clutch install.

So after many years I finally found a shop I trusted to install my clutch and heavy duty csc in the car. As expected something is/went wrong. Im so sick

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Old 12-17-2019, 02:01 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Help: Transmission symptom after new clutch install.

So after many years I finally found a shop I trusted to install my clutch and heavy duty csc in the car. As expected something is/went wrong. Im so sick to my stomach right now because the car is going to have to be messed with again.

Anyway when going from 4th to 5th gear you are now able to go so far to the right that 5th gets lost, and it almost always wants to go into 3rd gear once you go by that point. With rev match on you can only imagine how that sounds. I rarely drive the car (less than 1k miles a year) but I swear it used to only go by 5th/6th if you pressed down to get it into reverse. All the gears can be found and work but it is very annoying and not working correctly.

The next thing is the clutch pedal. It has zero rebound when sitting idle but I notice while accelerating there seems to be some kind of pressure that pushes it back up. Something just seems wrong with that as well.

I need to know what to tell the shop is wrong. I tried googling the symptoms but with no luck. I just want (fingers crossed) them to get it working correctly. They do not have much experience with this style transmission.
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Old 12-17-2019, 02:46 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Mr&Mrs View Post
Anyway when going from 4th to 5th gear you are now able to go so far to the right that 5th gets lost, and it almost always wants to go into 3rd gear once you go by that point. With rev match on you can only imagine how that sounds. I rarely drive the car (less than 1k miles a year) but I swear it used to only go by 5th/6th if you pressed down to get it into reverse. All the gears can be found and work but it is very annoying and not working correctly.
This sounds like either the shifter assembly wasn't installed properly and/or was improperly assembled. Something here definitely is off and it should be addressed before driving in traffic.

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Originally Posted by Mr&Mrs View Post
The next thing is the clutch pedal. It has zero rebound when sitting idle but I notice while accelerating there seems to be some kind of pressure that pushes it back up. Something just seems wrong with that as well.
Definitely leads me to believe the CSC is the culprit and this could likely be the result of it being improperly installed/assembled.

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Originally Posted by Mr&Mrs View Post
I need to know what to tell the shop is wrong. I tried googling the symptoms but with no luck. I just want (fingers crossed) them to get it working correctly. They do not have much experience with this style transmission.
As hard of a pill as this may be to swallow, I would grab my car from that shop and take it to a reputable shop that is familiar with our chassis and it's particulars.

I really hope you get this figured out and get her back on the road ASAP.
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Old 12-17-2019, 03:02 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks for the response. That's the problem since I was 17 (35 now) I have never been happy with any shop I have ever taken my cars to in my area. I no longer have the money to blindly throw at my car hobby. It doesn't matter who says they had great work done I always get burnt. I can no longer physically do it myself either.

Im just going to have to tell this guy to print out the instructions from the nissan manual and follow them step by step. then I have to hope once the clutch is broke in and I can give it some gas I dont have boost leaks from piping being removed to get to the tranny bolts.

*Update*

Called and talked with Z1 Motorsports. After describing the symptoms they said it should be two easy fixes. Shift plate needs to be rotated 180 degrees and there is still air in the clutch line.
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Last edited by Mr&Mrs; 12-17-2019 at 03:37 PM.
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Old 12-17-2019, 03:05 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Mr&Mrs View Post
Thanks for the response. That's the problem since I was 17 (35 now) I have never been happy with any shop I have ever taken my cars to in my area. I no longer have the money to blindly throw at my car hobby. It doesn't matter who says they had great work done I always get burnt. I can no longer physically do it myself either.

Im just going to have to tell this guy to print out the instructions from the nissan manual and follow them step by step. then I have to hope once the clutch is broke in and I can give it some gas I dont have boost leaks from piping being removed to get to the tranny bolts.
Np. Sucks to hear about your situation but I hope you're able to get it resolved ASAP, with as little additional discomfort as possible.
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Old 12-17-2019, 03:18 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I wonder if maybe just the reverse plate is installed incorrectly - it's pretty easy to slide it too far to one side during installation.

The pedal issue just sounds like some air in the clutch lines. I've struggled bleeding this clutch on several occasions. Usually it was a problem with the master cylinder and a new one solved the problem (4x). Did you have the shop install a new master with the new clutch and slave?
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Old 12-17-2019, 03:38 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Called and talked with Z1 Motorsports. After describing the symptoms they said it should be two easy fixes. Shift plate needs to be rotated 180 degrees and there is still air in the clutch line.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JARblue View Post
I wonder if maybe just the reverse plate is installed incorrectly - it's pretty easy to slide it too far to one side during installation.

The pedal issue just sounds like some air in the clutch lines. I've struggled bleeding this clutch on several occasions. Usually it was a problem with the master cylinder and a new one solved the problem (4x). Did you have the shop install a new master with the new clutch and slave?
^This. Thanks man nice to see one of the OGs still around helping out. Hope all is well with you and have a great holiday! Im glad it is a couple easy fixes. I did not get a new MS installed. If additional line bleeding doesn't fix it then a seal is probably bad in the MS.
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Last edited by Mr&Mrs; 12-17-2019 at 03:48 PM.
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Old 12-17-2019, 05:14 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Hello fellow Tampon (Tampa resident and not the feminine product), sorry to hear about your issue, and glad to hear Z1 may be able to assist.

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Originally Posted by Mr&Mrs View Post
I need to know what to tell the shop is wrong. I tried googling the symptoms but with no luck. I just want (fingers crossed) them to get it working correctly. They do not have much experience with this style transmission.
This would have been a major red flag. I'm surprised they weren't up front about this.
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Old 12-17-2019, 05:15 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Here's a picture of how the shift plate should be set up. It says 350z but that's on the TWM website and it's for the 350 and 370
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Old 12-20-2019, 10:19 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Thanks for all the input everyone. Car is fixed. In short that plate pictured above was about an 1/8” to far to the right. If you like to read a journal style right up and the full story it is posted in my build thread here Project Z
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Old 12-20-2019, 10:29 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Mr&Mrs View Post
Thanks for all the input everyone. Car is fixed. In short that plate pictured above was about an 1/8” to far to the right. If you like to read a journal style right up and the full story it is posted in my build thread here Project Z
Glad you got your issues resolved.
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Old 01-03-2020, 01:25 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr&Mrs View Post
Thanks for all the input everyone. Car is fixed. In short that plate pictured above was about an 1/8” to far to the right. If you like to read a journal style right up and the full story it is posted in my build thread here Project Z
Glad to see an OG authentic Zele kit owner is still around!
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