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You need to let MA Motorsports to build the motor. Because from the sound of it. You built motor #3. To blow through that much oil. I would check the
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Ronin Samurai - Assassin
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You need to let MA Motorsports to build the motor. Because from the sound of it. You built motor #3. To blow through that much oil. I would check the rings. Rings up side down, end gaps are in a line, not spaced, too big of end gaps. And when you said taps and piston skirt. You mean piston slap? And if that's the case. What is the bore diameter spec, and what is the piston diameter spec? If you are getting piston slap. Wonder if you have undersize pistons?
Everything I mentioned. I've seen. ![]()
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I was told it could be... Tap could be bad lifter or clearances were off. The side to side was a effed up bore, a bad ring or it didn't seat properly and forget the last thing he mentioned. I just don't have the 6k+ to drop to give it to MA or I would. I really wish I started with them. I guess I could attempt to pull the motor myself and take it there but Im afraid of paying them just to say the motor is trash when a former employee ( left on good terms) gave an honest opinion of what he saw and believed the motor was junk. Basically said it would cost just as much if not more to pull the motor, crack, assess damage, and go through the legal process of getting money back from the "builder" as it would to suck up the loss and try again **palms forehead** I honestly don't know the specs other than this My novice rearing it's ugly head JE Pistons .020 over Eagle H Beam Rods ARP Rod Bolts Block inspected and cleaned Block redecked Block Bored and Honed using a Torque Plate Rotating assembly balanced Crank magnafluxed and the journals micro-polished New Moly coated Race Spec main bearings installed New Moly coated Nissan OEM rod bearings installed Block prepped and assembled *** Ceramic/Moly Coating can be added to the Piston Tops and Skirts Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk |
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