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Originally Posted by cupcakez I don't know. Clearly...
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#2 (permalink) |
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Base Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 64
Drives: 2013 370z Nismo
Rep Power: 3370 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
![]() Guess my phone is crazy then. Well cupcakez doesnt want it anymore so i’ll wait for next person to hit me up. I just ask the next person to be patient with me as i don’t check emails often. And i don’t have notifications on tapatalk, so i may take time to reply due to having a demanding job, please be patient with me . |
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#3 (permalink) | |
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Track Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: California
Posts: 635
Drives: 2009-7AT-Base-Coup
Rep Power: 4837 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Quote:
Wasn't even for me in the first place. It was for a friend of mine. I'd already used the tool earlier this year, I don't need it again.
__________________
|| ECUTEK (Eugene) || A2A || IPP Built Motor Stage IV Spec || RJM Short Block || Quaife LSD || KW V3 || Stillen-Exhaust || 11.0.1 CR || 928 Full Rebuild || CPZ 34 Row Oil Cooler || Last edited by cupcakez; 10-03-2019 at 09:21 PM. |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Banned
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: USA
Posts: 24
Drives: 09 Nissan 370Z SR M6
Rep Power: 0 ![]() |
I have been repairing cars for many years - I'm a mechanic. I like my profession and I use a lot of tools every day, but the most useful of them is the torque wrench. I bought it after reading the reviews here https://torquewrenchguide.com/reviews/ and after listening to the reviews of my colleagues, I realized that I could not do without this tool.
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#9 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky
Age: 70
Posts: 35,578
Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M
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Quote:
__________________
浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Base Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Houston
Posts: 3
Drives: White 370Z auto
Rep Power: 9 ![]() |
Anybody still have one of these floating around I could borrow or purchase?
Did y'all drop the subframe? Can't get a good angle on the sawzall with where it's at to cut even all the way through although everyone else seems to have been okay. |
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#11 (permalink) | |
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Track Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Farmington, Utah
Posts: 582
Drives: 14 SR 370z 6MT
Rep Power: 10141 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Quote:
The the subframe bushing I used a drill and drilled around the center sleeve. Then, I took the sawzall and inserted where I had been drilling. I started from there and made a B - line to the outer ring and cut through it. Finally, I took a pry bar and a hammer and hit it twice and it came right out.
__________________
Ford Diesel and Heavy Line Technician at your service.
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#12 (permalink) |
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Track Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 821
Drives: 17' 370Z Nismo
Rep Power: 40657 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
My question is.
Can the Subframe bushing (once everything is out) be pushed out with center bushing intact using the air-hammer method? What I vision is, as one user suggested, just hitting the lip of the outer portion and drive it all in one piece! Since he had no need for a swazall split. I can't imagine the rubber center would exert that much force on outer shell to prevent an air chisel from pushing it out. ( hammering at different locations circumstantially and equally) Just a thought. |
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#13 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: USA
Age: 39
Posts: 5,264
Drives: A Garage Queen
Rep Power: 2684372 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Quote:
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#14 (permalink) | |
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Base Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Houston
Posts: 3
Drives: White 370Z auto
Rep Power: 9 ![]() |
Quote:
I appreciate the replies. |
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#15 (permalink) |
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Base Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Houston
Posts: 3
Drives: White 370Z auto
Rep Power: 9 ![]() |
https://imgur.com/a/hQDG22r some pretty poor pictures of the subframe bushing collar. Got it kinda mangled in the back at about the 3 oclock position but past that it won't budge. Do I just need to cut deeper? Kinda see where I've nicked the subframe already a bit.
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