Suspect water pump

SouthArk370Z

I'd like to see some pics.

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fryzia23

Before you drive yourself crazy and start taking the car apart, I suggest you get a proper coolant funnel kit (link below). What Im about to suggest is not possible without one because coolant would spill everywhere. So fill the coolant to 1/3 full of the funnel, start the car and turn on the heater all the way to max temp and max fan speed. Also make sure to adjust vents to face mode only and make sure AC is off! Run the car and give it several good revs to like 4-5k and hold for 5-10sec. Back off and repeat. This way you build extra pressure to push coolant around and possibly eliminate any air pockets that still might've been trapped in the system. Make sure you keep watching funnel through your windshield to make sure coolant is not excessively raising. If it does, back off for little and try again. Keep doing until fan kicks on and off couple of times. From experience some cars will bleed just fine from idling, others need that extra push especially when cooling system was completely opened. Hope it helps

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24610-S...ice+kit+funnel

Z_ealot

that's the first thing I bought when I started trying to diagnose the issue lol...works very well for getting air out of the system, but sadly the last time I tried it which was about 2 weeks ago, I got no air bubbles escaping from the system. Thanks for the suggestion though

Jhill

Come on your at Porsche now, time to throw that funnel in the trash where it belongs. Get yourself an airlift kit or similar (I use mityvac mv4525, most complete cooking system tester I've ever used). Truly the only way to get all air out of today's engine with all their crossover passages etc etc. Japanese still seem to design systems that are easier to bleed conventionaly though.

One thought is there are two designs of the z cooling system. One uses a conventional expansion tank system and the later (I think 2012) use the tank as part of the pressurized system. If you have the later there is usually a upper return hose (I'm not at my car or looking at it currently so I'll have to verify this later and hopefully not look stupid) the return hose should have a pretty steady stream of coolant back to the reservoir. This was always a good indicator for when the plastic impeller would break on 1.8t vw engines.

Oh and ps just kidding about throwing the funnel away, keep it as the taper hole is much easier to secure the block checker in than some radiator openings, but that's really all I used it for after having a vacuum fill. Also on subject of block checkers there are different designs and the ones with two chambers are much more sensitive to very small gasket leaks (second chamber will change color)

Z_ealot

I have the old system with the expansion tank. Also where can i get one of these two chamber block checkers that you mentioned? Would i be able to rent one from somewhere?

Jhill

I doubt you can rent one. I got mine from my Matco guy but I don't think it's your headgasket.

Z_ealot

One other symptom I'd like to add is that while either going downhill or down a flat road the car cools off fine, the moment i hit an incline the temperature starts climbing upwards all the way to 221 is the highest I've seen it go on a relatively short hill climb and this is with the ac off

Dreadnaught

While the car is moving air is helping cool the engine and coolant before it goes back into your engine.

While you're going uphill, there is more load on the engine than if you are on a flat road. So your engine is working harder to get up the hill which in turn is producing more heat. And if your coolant is that hot your fans should be on even if the A/C is off which I know you said they do.

Wish I could diag this car in person.

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Z_ealot

I ran a block test on it today and block testing fluid did not change color so as far as I can tell the head gasket is fine, while I had the coolant partially drained I decided to take a look and see if coolant was flowing as it should with the thermostat open....as far as I could tell the coolant wasn't really flowing so much as it was just collecting in the fill neck even after revving the engine up to about 2500rpm....seems like pressure just builds in the system, but coolant isn't really flowing much.

Jhill

When fully warm with a non touch temp gun is heat fairly even between upper rad hose and lower and is it fairly even across the radiator? Also may test at heater core hoses too to see if flow is getting through the system. With everything flowing then temps should be fairly close to each other.

Z_ealot

Unfortunately dont have one of those, the only thing i can tell you is just by touch both the upper and lower radiator hoses feel about the same temperature with the lower radiator hose feeling very slightly cooler. Any chance of an inrared temp reader being rented out by someone? Lol oh and as for the radiator as far as i remember the temperature feeling by hand was pretty consistent across the entire radiator

SouthArk370Z

You can find IR thermometers for less than $20 on Amazon. If in a hurry, most hardware stores (eg, Home Depot) will have one for a little more. You may be able to borrow/rent one from an auto parts store.

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Z_ealot

found one at lowes after they had already closed, will have to pick it up after I get off work tomorrow and check things out, thanks for the tip though

phunk

what are you using to monitor your coolant temps? I dont believe you have mentioned where the indication of over-heating is coming from.

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Z_ealot

Using an obd2 scantool, more specifically one of the bluetooth scanners paired with obd fusion on my iphone. Have also used a higher end actron and they both read the same when it comes to coolant temps