Quote:
Originally Posted by fryzia23
Before you drive yourself crazy and start taking the car apart, I suggest you get a proper coolant funnel kit (link below). What Im about to suggest is not possible without one because coolant would spill everywhere. So fill the coolant to 1/3 full of the funnel, start the car and turn on the heater all the way to max temp and max fan speed. Also make sure to adjust vents to face mode only and make sure AC is off! Run the car and give it several good revs to like 4-5k and hold for 5-10sec. Back off and repeat. This way you build extra pressure to push coolant around and possibly eliminate any air pockets that still might've been trapped in the system. Make sure you keep watching funnel through your windshield to make sure coolant is not excessively raising. If it does, back off for little and try again. Keep doing until fan kicks on and off couple of times. From experience some cars will bleed just fine from idling, others need that extra push especially when cooling system was completely opened. Hope it helps
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24610-S...ice+kit+funnel |
Come on your at Porsche now, time to throw that funnel in the trash where it belongs. Get yourself an airlift kit or similar (I use mityvac mv4525, most complete cooking system tester I've ever used). Truly the only way to get all air out of today's engine with all their crossover passages etc etc. Japanese still seem to design systems that are easier to bleed conventionaly though.
One thought is there are two designs of the z cooling system. One uses a conventional expansion tank system and the later (I think 2012) use the tank as part of the pressurized system. If you have the later there is usually a upper return hose (I'm not at my car or looking at it currently so I'll have to verify this later and hopefully not look stupid) the return hose should have a pretty steady stream of coolant back to the reservoir. This was always a good indicator for when the plastic impeller would break on 1.8t vw engines.
Oh and ps just kidding about throwing the funnel away, keep it as the taper hole is much easier to secure the block checker in than some radiator openings, but that's really all I used it for after having a vacuum fill. Also on subject of block checkers there are different designs and the ones with two chambers are much more sensitive to very small gasket leaks (second chamber will change color)