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Help please, I blew my motor and need to plan the rebuild

Originally Posted by SurfDog No fuel starve here! I have Phunk's road race pump. Racing goodness down to the last drop. (also his road race oil pan.) So why would

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Old 06-03-2017, 08:57 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by SurfDog View Post
No fuel starve here!

I have Phunk's road race pump. Racing goodness down to the last drop.

(also his road race oil pan.)
So why would "spooling down/up" caused it to let go do you think? The motors age and lots of track days making it weaker?

Last edited by Optimiser; 06-03-2017 at 09:05 PM. Reason: change
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Old 06-05-2017, 01:12 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by James10694 View Post
It is not uncommon to blow an NA engine if it's being tracked. The main cause is fuel starvation. If you're tracking your Z frequently you need to either buy a road race pump or keep your fuel above 3/4 tank. It's happened before. Check out ban25s thread.
Interesting I didn't hear ban had an issue. I occasionally track but try to keep a full tank. What happenend here a lean mis under load in turn exit?

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Old 06-03-2017, 10:25 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I'd get weights for all the stock reciprocating parts and spec out lighter, stronger replacements. They won't have to be forced induction beefy but less reciprocating weight would be a bonus on an n/a motor along with anything to reduce friction.
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Old 06-03-2017, 11:02 PM   #4 (permalink)
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wow,
that's a really heated up looking rod it spit out-unsure what your oil temp's are looking like or even the oil type/intervals.
I'm over 82k & drive the (@#*%) out of mine at times & even bumping off the 7800rpm limiter,seen engine oil temp 240-250 & never had the slightest rattle.
Mind you/only have 320whp...but I will push it on a regular basis.
your's may have had a loss of oil pressure,at some point in time.
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Old 06-03-2017, 11:12 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Just realized you had an 09. Could have been a rear timing cover gasket issue. They're known to degrade and cause a loss in oil pressure.
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Old 06-04-2017, 02:51 AM   #6 (permalink)
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That is a near- perfect example of failed big-end bearing seizing, tearing the gudgeon pin (little-end) out of the piston and then cutting the engine in 2 and generally self-destructing ........

You have an oil problem of some kind I would think. It could be pressure as a consequence of bearing wear (clearances too great for required pressure), or it could be cr4p in the oil causing bearing pickup between rod and crank but to avoid it happening again, you need a diagnosis on what happened.

This requires a pro-engine builder to assess ..............

Why don't you give Clark @ JWT a call and email him your photo's ..........

With the much heat in the rod, the crank will be FUBAR as well ........... time to start again with another block I reckon.

Charles' (Phunk) sump is good, but it will have limits and you may have found them. What tyres are you using (how much lateral grip is being generated) ........ are you logging anything (looking for tell-tale pressure fluctuation) ....... there is a diagnosis process you can go thru

This needs a serious review before just building another engine.

It could be dry-sump time - worst case.
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Old 06-04-2017, 09:58 AM   #7 (permalink)
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1.3 gs. Toyo RRs (18x275)
I suspect either oil starve due to failed non nismo oil gears or due to limits of pan capability. I'm building a dedicated track car this year so won't be tracking the z much going forward but once we tear down we'll diagnose the fail and possibly put in an acusump and warning light for pending oil pressure drops (Off the acusump)

Great input guys!

I'll send more photos as we tear down
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Old 06-04-2017, 10:04 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Question should I have a local machine shop with good experience build up a long block or order one from IPP or Z1.

(I love their stuff, but Z1 seems a little pricy by comparison)
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Old 06-04-2017, 11:16 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by SurfDog View Post
Question should I have a local machine shop with good experience build up a long block or order one from IPP or Z1.

(I love their stuff, but Z1 seems a little pricy by comparison)
Call Z1. There is a reason IPP is cheaper. Do not skimp or you will be doing this again.
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Old 06-04-2017, 10:19 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Default Help please, I blew my motor and need to plan the rebuild

I'm thinking the stage 1 IPP 11/1 compression built long block with Nismo billet oil gears and an acusump. As a start. Recycle my 400 hp kit and look at the crank. I can't use an ATI fluid harmonic dampener (no dry sump). So I'm probably stuck with the OEM dampener.

If the crank broke from harmonics I'll put in a closer to stock weight flywheel. Instead of my existing lightweight one (which I love )

Thoughts??
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Old 06-04-2017, 11:17 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by SurfDog View Post
I'm thinking the stage 1 IPP 11/1 compression built long block with Nismo billet oil gears and an acusump. As a start. Recycle my 400 hp kit and look at the crank. I can't use an ATI fluid harmonic dampener (no dry sump). So I'm probably stuck with the OEM dampener.

If the crank broke from harmonics I'll put in a closer to stock weight flywheel. Instead of my existing lightweight one (which I love )

Thoughts??
Why can't you use an ATI damper?
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Old 06-04-2017, 11:18 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SurfDog View Post
I can't use an ATI fluid harmonic dampener (no dry sump). So I'm probably stuck with the OEM dampener.

If the crank broke from harmonics I'll put in a closer to stock weight flywheel. Instead of my existing lightweight one (which I love )

Thoughts??
ATI made a pulley that works with our stock setup. Might have to call MA motorsports to get one. I have it and it really smooths the engine out in the higher rpm. Love it.
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Old 06-04-2017, 02:31 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by lj909 View Post
ATI made a pulley that works with our stock setup. Might have to call MA motorsports to get one. I have it and it really smooths the engine out in the higher rpm. Love it.


Good info. I was researching and only saw dampers that work without a dipstick (dry sumped). I'll call ATI and get the real story.

I don't think harmonics blew my crank but at this point anything is possible.
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Old 06-05-2017, 03:10 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by SurfDog View Post
Good info. I was researching and only saw dampers that work without a dipstick (dry sumped). I'll call ATI and get the real story.

I don't think harmonics blew my crank but at this point anything is possible.


Hey,


As a few others in this thread have mentioned, you will want to take that motor all the way down to nothing and get it all cleaned/inspected. New stock crank at the minimum, Bryant has a 3.7 or a 4.0 crank we use, but, depending on your budget that may not be in the cards.


Shoot me a PM or call me at 410-593-7080 would be more than happy to go over some options with you, and we do also have the ATI dampers in stock currently. There are a few engine options out there for you depending what all you need the car to do.


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Old 06-04-2017, 04:05 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I have the ATI damper also. MA motorsports is your friend.
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