Clutch Disengaging at high RPM?

Jayhovah

Yup, no-brainer. The most expensive part of this process is the labor.

Might as well upgrade the clutch too, if only because I'd imagine a Z1 street clutch is probably far cheaper than OEM.

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2013 Gun Metallic Sport - Gamma V3 Twin Turbogized
DIY Gamma V3 TT Install * Jayhovah's Gamma V3 TT Install Pic'Z and Vid'Z * DIY: Washer Reservoir for the Boosted

Ghostvette

Hopefully, OP can find a shop that lets him provide the parts.

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2015 Magma Red 6MT Sport Tech/2012 Fairlady MB 6MT Base (RIP 08032018)https://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/370Z/Coupe/

Ben370

Yeah I ordered the Z1 clutch kit, Zspeed HD CSC, and OEM Master Cylinder. For fluids I got Motul RBF600 and Redline MT85.

Jayhovah

Sounds good! I am running the exact same setup with the addition of a Z1 lightweight flywheel.

__________________
2013 Gun Metallic Sport - Gamma V3 Twin Turbogized
DIY Gamma V3 TT Install * Jayhovah's Gamma V3 TT Install Pic'Z and Vid'Z * DIY: Washer Reservoir for the Boosted

Ben370

So I changed the clutch, CSC, and master cylinder, refilled and bled clutch fluid...still having the original problem!
Could it possibly be the fuel pump?

Ghostvette

I'm hoping the mech did the complete job; flywheel, pilot bearing, and installed the pressure plate. Changing just the clutch disk, CSC & MC won't fix the problem, if you don't do the complete job.


My vote is back to the mechanic. The opening for the fuel pump is behind the passenger seat, the FSM has the location. I've heard of some folks having the fuel pump head break off and drop the pump to the bottom of the tank. Phunk has the fix for that. GL

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2015 Magma Red 6MT Sport Tech/2012 Fairlady MB 6MT Base (RIP 08032018)https://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/370Z/Coupe/

dP3NGU1N

Isn't the pump at the bottom of the tank anyway? The head of the fuel pump assembly has springs so that when you secure it, it provides constant pressure holding the rest of the assembly at the bottom of the tank. I think the most dangerous thing that might occur when the head breaks is that the assembly is free floating around the tank. Considering the fuel level sensor is also attached to that assembly, it will lead to inaccurate fuel level readings to boot.

Also, seems unlikely that it's the fuel pump if the car is running. I think the fuel pump is running at a constant cycle, more or less throttle has nothing to do with the fuel pump (someone fact check me, pretty sure that's how it work). There should be a separate mechanism that adjusts fuel input into the engine.

OPs issue still sounds like a clutch issue to me. The mechanic should warranty his work considering he did not solve the original issue. Hopefully you told him about the issue and didn't just pop by asking him to change your clutch without context. A good mechanic would have taken it for a test drive to ensure that the issue is fixed before returning your car.

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