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CJM Oil Pan

Sent you something via PayPal. Looking forward to getting this thing installed.

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Old 07-22-2015, 09:56 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Sent you something via PayPal. Looking forward to getting this thing installed.
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Old 07-22-2015, 10:12 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Can we pay you a little extra for you to install the baffle and safety wire for us?
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Old 07-22-2015, 10:14 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Can we pay you a little extra for you to install the baffle and safety wire for us?
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Old 07-22-2015, 12:59 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Probably LOL. I will play with it and check it out. Just waiting on the baffle plates. I am on his ***. Dealing with vendors is so frustrating!!!

The wire and the drilled screws are here, and the pans are pretty much done. Just have to start adding the oil drain ports for those customers. I havent done it yet because I am sitting on the fence thinking about using a NPT thread about the same size as the -10ORB because I think it might be better for most customers. I dont generally like NPT threads, but I think customers might like it better for tightening and feeling good about it being tight and leak free.
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Last edited by phunk; 07-22-2015 at 01:07 PM.
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Old 07-22-2015, 01:15 PM   #5 (permalink)
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2 Photos attached... 1 showing the pans are done machining other than oil drains.

Second photo shows the baffle top plate that is being made.

I added the vertical wings and positioned them so that they will focus all the oil coming back from the rear of the engine / upper pan area into the sump area. They are positioned to recover most of that. Their exact position will make more sense when I post pictures of it with the upper pan attached from the inside.

My thought process on this was lets try and almost take the side wings of the lower pan out of the equation so that oil can recirculate more easily. With oil circulation mostly bypassing the outside wings of the pan, these wings serve just as oil displacement and as surge protection where oil can easily travel from the wing to the sump, but oil can only really get into the wing through oil level, which means there was a surplus of oil to spare for storage in the wing. I hope I am describing this in a way that makes sense. Basically I wanted the baffle system to not be a full time part of oil circulation, but to mostly act as walls and reduce sump area for oil to get away, but then these walls are also check valves to allow stored oil in the wings to enter.
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File Type: jpg IMG_3323.JPG (197.7 KB, 34 views)
File Type: jpg baffle.jpg (79.5 KB, 34 views)
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Old 07-22-2015, 03:03 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Looks good Charles! I don't know how to do safety wire properly, so if it is a good idea then I would ask to have you install it as well.
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Old 07-22-2015, 03:08 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Its really easy you just connect the 6 bolts together by running the wire through the holes in the bolts, easier than tying your shoes. This way they could never spin out. It actually doesnt even need wire anyway, its just a racey precaution.
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Old 07-22-2015, 03:53 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Hi Charles, I have the lock-wire twist pliers and stainless wire, so I will zip the fasteners up myself.
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Old 07-22-2015, 04:03 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Hi Charles, I have the lock-wire twist pliers and stainless wire, so I will zip the fasteners up myself.
Ditto, I'm good too.
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Old 07-22-2015, 05:40 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Me three. I have all safety wire tools. Just send the bolts.
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Old 07-22-2015, 07:30 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Got the laser man to do the baffles tonight! He just texted me a photo!
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Old 07-23-2015, 02:47 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Call me dumb but I really need to be cautious of the pans height. I saw the pics and it's not below the cross member so is the guessed 1 extra quart from the pan being longer and wider then OEM?
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Old 07-23-2015, 01:25 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I really need to be cautious of the pans height.
The pan has some pretty decent ground clearance... I dont know if the pan itself would be much a concern once you see it... but the drain plug from Nissan is a bit more knobby than necessary, reducing ground clearance by about 1/2".

I could have a low profile drain plug made which could probably gain at least 1/8" ground clearance, probably closer to 1/4", for anyone interested? I would have to get a quote on it from the turning shop but I would figure on it being less than $50.

If the concern is very great, I would put a safety wire hole in the drain plug, and install it from the inside and wire it in place, and put a drain on the side of the pan... there are 2 really thick spots to drill and tap where the optional oil return ports would go.
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Old 07-28-2015, 07:36 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phunk View Post
The pan has some pretty decent ground clearance... I dont know if the pan itself would be much a concern once you see it... but the drain plug from Nissan is a bit more knobby than necessary, reducing ground clearance by about 1/2".

I could have a low profile drain plug made which could probably gain at least 1/8" ground clearance, probably closer to 1/4", for anyone interested? I would have to get a quote on it from the turning shop but I would figure on it being less than $50.

If the concern is very great, I would put a safety wire hole in the drain plug, and install it from the inside and wire it in place, and put a drain on the side of the pan... there are 2 really thick spots to drill and tap where the optional oil return ports would go.

There should be a commercially available low profile socket head screw with the proper threads that would give more ground clearance than the stock drain plug.
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Old 07-23-2015, 10:18 AM   #15 (permalink)
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The pan is deeper than the stock pan, and squared off at the corners rather than round.

Although new data suggests it is more like a half quart more than the stock pan.
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