2011 7AT Tour 2nd to 3rd Shifting delay and 5K rpm Loss of Power!

[Zyphron]

Ive been Waiting for a week for Approval to post this! so whatever admin/mod did the approval.... you sir, are A gentleman and a Scholar
Monday I purchased a 2011 370z 7AT Touring with all the packages for the Wife. when testing it on Friday I noticed that getting on the throttle 1/8 to 1/4 of the way the shift from 2-3 the car would "Hang" at 1700 to 2000 Rpm and cease all Acceleration as if the motor died but the car was still running. not 2 Seconds Later, BAMB! The car would kinda Play Catch up and ramp up the motor to 4k then shift hard.
pulled the code the standard Nissan way since I didn't want to be "told" what it was. and I'm weary of stealerships (this is not a Nissan Dealer either, so they will have to send it down the street) it came back to me on the dash as: P0605 Bad ECU memory or ground. I told the used car dealer and they agreed to fix the issue by getting a re-flash. so I came back Monday with my wife after repairs were complete and drove the car HARD, gentle, Like I stole it, and even like I was Driving Miss Daisy. I Tried my best to make the issue come back. putting 20 miles on it in the process. came up with nothing. The car ran amazingly so............ I bought it.
after 1 day of ownership the car is doing the SAME thing again. but in addition this time, it wont rev up past 5-6k in Auto and it will ONLY shift if I keep it in a Lower RPM range and go easy on the throttle. If I floor it? in ANY gear and I hit 5-6k RPM its acts like it has a Rev-limiter and the car drops power throwing you forward in the seat. then it quickly ramps back up to repeat the process
in Auto mode? pick any gear, it does this and wont shift under Hard acceleration
in Manual mode you have to shift before 5k or else it does the same thing.
sorry for the wall of text.
I looked over the internet (mostly here) for issues that match these and found some that are Similar but don't quite Fit: "loss of power and Limp mode" which limits u to 3k Rpm "Fuel starvation" which Kills RPM's but also the engine dies and or sputters, mine does not. and the "5k rev Limiter for Neutral," Mine does this in Drive

Car has 1/2 a tank of fuel

oh and to make this worse? its not Dropping any SES/CEL codes for me to hunt down. I'm VERY mechanically inclined and i've worked on, Torn apart and Rebuilt the VQ35DE's in my 03 Altima and 2010 Maxima.

anything you guys could think of would help?
Some codes it gave when I test Drove it but have not come back.
p0460-Fixed with a Fuse and Battery Reset (dealer Did this fix)
P0461-Fuse Replaced (dealer Did this fix)
P0650-(dealer)Flashed the ECU. Car seemed Fine for about 100 to 200 Miles

[jchammond]

Originally Posted by Zyphron

Ive been Waiting for a week for Approval to post this! so whatever admin/mod did the approval.... you sir, are A gentleman and a Scholar
Monday I purchased a 2011 370z 7AT Touring with all the packages for the Wife. when testing it on Friday I noticed that getting on the throttle 1/8 to 1/4 of the way the shift from 2-3 the car would "Hang" at 1700 to 2000 Rpm and cease all Acceleration as if the motor died but the car was still running. not 2 Seconds Later, BAMB! The car would kinda Play Catch up and ramp up the motor to 4k then shift hard.
pulled the code the standard Nissan way since I didn't want to be "told" what it was. and I'm weary of stealerships (this is not a Nissan Dealer either, so they will have to send it down the street) it came back to me on the dash as: P0605 Bad ECU memory or ground. I told the used car dealer and they agreed to fix the issue by getting a re-flash. so I came back Monday with my wife after repairs were complete and drove the car HARD, gentle, Like I stole it, and even like I was Driving Miss Daisy. I Tried my best to make the issue come back. putting 20 miles on it in the process. came up with nothing. The car ran amazingly so............ I bought it.
after 1 day of ownership the car is doing the SAME thing again. but in addition this time, it wont rev up past 5-6k in Auto and it will ONLY shift if I keep it in a Lower RPM range and go easy on the throttle. If I floor it? in ANY gear and I hit 5-6k RPM its acts like it has a Rev-limiter and the car drops power throwing you forward in the seat. then it quickly ramps back up to repeat the process
in Auto mode? pick any gear, it does this and wont shift under Hard acceleration
in Manual mode you have to shift before 5k or else it does the same thing.
sorry for the wall of text.
I looked over the internet (mostly here) for issues that match these and found some that are Similar but don't quite Fit: "loss of power and Limp mode" which limits u to 3k Rpm "Fuel starvation" which Kills RPM's but also the engine dies and or sputters, mine does not. and the "5k rev Limiter for Neutral," Mine does this in Drive

Car has 1/2 a tank of fuel

oh and to make this worse? its not Dropping any SES/CEL codes for me to hunt down. I'm VERY mechanically inclined and i've worked on, Torn apart and Rebuilt the VQ35DE's in my 03 Altima and 2010 Maxima.

anything you guys could think of would help?
Some codes it gave when I test Drove it but have not come back.
p0460-Fixed with a Fuse and Battery Reset
P0461-Fuse Replaced
P0650-they Flashed the ECU. Car seemed Fine for about 100 to 200 Miles

How many miles on car?
Try putting in manual mode 1st gear-will it rev to 7500 & fall flat at 7600(rev limit protection)try it-won't blow engine.....if it falls flat before 7500-engine performance issues;ck for dirty or oily mafs (may have over oiled k&N's) low fuel pressure would cause a random cylinder mis-fire.
I have the same identical car w/70k on it-no issues/ but currently dis-assembled for upgrades.
ps:inspect car good for any aftermarket upgrades.

[Zyphron]

Originally Posted by jchammond

How many miles on car?
Try putting in manual mode 1st gear-will it rev to 7500 & fall flat at 7600(rev limit protection)try it-won't blow engine.....if it falls flat before 7500-engine performance issues;ck for dirty or oily mafs (may have over oiled k&N's) low fuel pressure would cause a random cylinder mis-fire.
I have the same identical car w/70k on it-no issues/ but currently dis-assembled for upgrades.
ps:inspect car good for any aftermarket upgrades.

the car has 80k on it all stock parts. It will rev to 5 or 6k then drop rpm as if the car is stuck in gear and is hitting the rev limiter (no red light). I can back it off to 4k RPM and it runs fine. shifts up into 2nd 3rd 4th Ect.

MAF's look clean, I pulled the right one off this morning, its spotless.
The car has new engine oil, new air filters, new tires, and brakes. Pretty much the usual wear items were replaced by the prev owner before he traded it to the dealer.
the owner of the dealership has been driving the car around. The only issue was the gas float malfunction where it would read empty regardless. the dealer's service department told me they would change this part out but they needed to order it from Nissan. when the tech was checking out the p0605 code he replaced a Blown fuse and the gauge started reading Fuel @1/4 tank. I dropped 5 gal in it and it read 1/2 a tank. so its working good as I could tell.

and Now here is where it gets worse....
I went out this morning to warm her up and take her to work so I can get it over to the dealer to check out. Since at this point I feel its a CPS or CSP Sensor and I'm not gonna pay for a Part that was bad before I purchased the car...

The car wont start she turns over but I'm getting no Ignition. No CEL/SES .... I cleared the car unplugged the battery and Put it back on and Tried to turn it over..... same thing. I checked the SES light. 5 Long blinks and then a Solid Light.( which i cant tell if its bad or not since with Key-on the SES lights regardless) I listened to the Fuel Pump. it hums for a few seconds then Cuts out. which tells me its working and pressurizing the line.

in the past 2 Days my Wife's tune has changed from "love it" to "Get rid of it" This was her Dream car (it was really a 350Z in burnt Orange but she was 14 in 2003)

Before I call AAA to have it Towed is there anything u guys can think of?
Thanks for Reading, I hate Jumping on a forum to Just Post HELP ME's.

[B&W_Evader]

To get it to start, try disconnecting the Air Temp Sensor in the Air Filter box. If it's reading too hot it won't start. (it either cuts fuel or spark, not sure which) Don't know where it is in the 370z but if you can't find it, pop the air filters and look for something sticking in the box with wires connected to it. That should be it.

Check engine light should come on. If it doesn't it probably means something's been bypassed in the ECU.

I usually connect it again once it's going but I've skipped that step for multiple thousands of miles.

Also, any way to get a sock Nissan flash back in her (by stealership). That way you can be sure no one has been tweaking it to cheat stuff.

[jchammond]

Didn't want to quote on the long list- first; the shift light on the Auto means nothing/ it is adjustable to Taylor your shifts- mine is set around 7800 & begins to flash around 7300 (usually 4-500 RPM's before the set point))reminder to shift before it hits rev limiter.
Also/ looked up your initial code:::and you may have a failed ecm.
80,000 on an 11' isn't bad, but hopefully someone serviced the Trans at least once.(just a drain & fill procedure)mine was as dark as coffee @50k....so I done it a few times - driving about 5 miles in-between each drain & fill, to ensure I flushed converter & cooler.
I drive mine very hard at times/ so ever since then ,,I perform a once drain & fill every 10k (around 3.5-4qts. On level ground,5+ if on ramps)
Hope your wife doesn't lose faith in it-most likely something simple.
I did see that it talked about the ground......I replaced my battery @50k for preventive maintenance on Jan 16' (car was built Nov.10) just over 5yrs old & noticed it cranked a bit weaker on very cold days.
Put the oem sized Red top Optima in it....works beautifully!
Also replaced my serpentine belt (Gates belt from Napa) old one was getting dry & showing signs of cracking.
You definitely got an electrical problem & the dealership should be able to repair it.
I will post a short video of how it should shift.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[jchammond]

https://vimeo.com/161262286
Only upgrade at this time was K&N drop in air filters (hardly noticed any difference at all) traction control turned off & on a sticky track-notice no wheel spin.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Zyphron]

Originally Posted by B&W_Evader

To get it to start, try disconnecting the Air Temp Sensor in the Air Filter box. If it's reading too hot it won't start. (it either cuts fuel or spark, not sure which) Don't know where it is in the 370z but if you can't find it, pop the air filters and look for something sticking in the box with wires connected to it. That should be it.

Check engine light should come on. If it doesn't it probably means something's been bypassed in the ECU. Tested this Out by pulling a CPS sensor. she threw a Code for the CPS after cranking.

I usually connect it again once it's going but I've skipped that step for multiple thousands of miles.

Also, any way to get a sock Nissan flash back in her (by stealership). That way you can be sure no one has been tweaking it to cheat stuff
The Nissan dealer was the one that performed the flash. the dealer I bought my car from sent it down the street (its like 5 dealers all in a row)in fact my dealer gave me the service manager's phone number over at Nissan to call and he will troubleshoot it over the phone. which is kinda unheard of...but everyone i've talked to seems to think its a simple issue like a sensor or something. I tend to agree .

Because Length

[Zyphron]

Originally Posted by jchammond

Didn't want to quote on the long list- first; the shift light on the Auto means nothing/ it is adjustable to Taylor your shifts- mine is set around 7800 & begins to flash around 7300 (usually 4-500 RPM's before the set point))reminder to shift before it hits rev limiter. did not know this, good to know.
Also/ looked up your initial code:::and you may have a failed ecm. GRRRREAT....... it's getting towed to the Nissan dealer tomorrow afternoon if the Service manager cant help me (im like 70 mi away) well it says Bad Ground too. wonder if that has something to do with the battery? id Doubt it'd Crank like it does though. but Ill check the ECU grounds.
80,000 on an 11' isn't bad, but hopefully someone serviced the Trans at least once.(just a drain & fill procedure)mine was as dark as coffee @50k....so I done it a few times - driving about 5 miles in-between each drain & fill, to ensure I flushed converter & cooler.
I drive mine very hard at times/ so ever since then ,,I perform a once drain & fill every 10k (around 3.5-4qts. On level ground,5+ if on ramps)
Hope your wife doesn't lose faith in it-most likely something simple. she Over reacts. but trying to do something Nice and it blows up in your face really sucks
I did see that it talked about the ground......I replaced my battery @50k for preventive maintenance on Jan 16' (car was built Nov.10) just over 5yrs old & noticed it cranked a bit weaker on very cold days.yeah, whats up with this 8 gauge Ground Strap. how Crappy is that? it feels Super weak and Flimsy. I might Grab some of my 4 gauge OFC Amp cable to use here and make a New ground strap,
Put the oem sized Red top Optima in it....works beautifully!
Also replaced my serpentine belt (Gates belt from Napa) old one was getting dry & showing signs of cracking.
You definitely got an electrical problem & the dealership should be able to repair it. I really hope so
I will post a short video of how it should shift.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

thanks for the Pointers and Suggestions

[Orestp]

My AT was shifting very slow - under hard acceleration - the revs would go up to 5 - 6K before it shifted down - and with a long delay. I cleaned the MAF sensors and it shifts much much quicker now.