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Tweeters removal/installation questions.

Hey guys, i am right now trying to install the New Alphine SPR-17S 6-1/2 Speakers and the Tweeters. However, since i am completely new at this, i really have no

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Old 10-05-2009, 03:56 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Tweeters removal/installation questions.

Hey guys, i am right now trying to install the New Alphine SPR-17S 6-1/2 Speakers and the Tweeters. However, since i am completely new at this, i really have no idea what i was doing. With my friend's help, he was able to install the speakers for me with no problems. However, he seems to not know much about how the tweeters work. So, my question is, can anyone be kind enough to guide me through this? How to removal the original tweeters and replace them with the Alphine one i bought? Thank you in advance
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Old 10-05-2009, 04:10 PM   #2 (permalink)
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yah, that tweeter is a pita to wire up. the cover comes off just by prying it up. then remove 4 little screws and turn the tweeter while you pull up and the harness will expose itself so you can unplug it.

imho, it is MUCH EASIER to wire up new lines to the tweeter than trying to find where the wires are in the kickpanel. in that respect, the cross over will need to be placed in the kickpanel area and new wires into the doors to your woofer.

here's wat the tweeter looks like. bigaudiofanat has done the tweeter wiring so ask him for details. i didnt go through with it since my HU's EQ is giving me pretty good sound.

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Old 10-05-2009, 05:04 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I didn't have a chance to test the connections, but from what I can gather (on the base model at least) there is only one pair of wires coming off the head unit. Both the tweeter and the woofer get the same signal. The tweeter has a built in crossover (you can see the capacitor in the above image...) to process the appropriate frequencies. I don't recall if the woofer has a LPF on it or not.

I'm assuming you're using an amp with those speakers? They'll take up to 110 Watts RMS, which was WAY more than the stock HU can put (dream of putting) out. If that's the case (as kenchan said), you can mount the x-overs in the kick panels and easily fish the wire up to the tweeter location (you'll need to make mounting brackets - or trash the stock cages) and through the door- you can use the stock wires for the door- although it's not that difficult to get the wire through the door harness (provided you know how to take the door connector off.) If you're interested in going down this path - let me know I'll share some pictures form my install.
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Old 01-24-2010, 11:19 AM   #4 (permalink)
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or u can use alpine sps-600c speakers which have inline crossovers for the tweets and use the factory connector adapter made by scoshe and not have to cut anything. Might have problems with an amp tho as the factory wire gauge is small.
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Old 01-24-2010, 02:06 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Just finished my install. Ran all new wires for the tweets and woofs. I used slikniks tutorial and had very little probs. I tore apart the original tweets and used the frame as amounting point for the new tweets. you have to remove the magnet on the old tweet by drilling out the rivets to the frame.
* just realized how old this thread is *DOH

Last edited by cptspeed; 01-24-2010 at 02:08 PM.
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Old 02-03-2010, 05:02 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I did my tweeters over the weekend and used the cardboard from the speaker packaging as my brackets, which are sturdy enough and worked well. I will try and remember to post pics when I get back in town.
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Old 02-04-2010, 12:15 AM   #7 (permalink)
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here's how i did mine. took some thin plastic and used a hole-saw.


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Old 04-06-2010, 10:34 AM   #8 (permalink)
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^^ Brilliant. That's exactly what I'm going to do.
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Old 04-07-2010, 12:12 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Cheap and too lazy to go to Lowe's or Home Depot...
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Old 04-07-2010, 12:33 PM   #10 (permalink)
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hey, were do you guys buy those black ABS boards?

ive been using thin MDF to make my brackets but ABS might be easier to cut and drill.
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