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Are the slotted pipes intended to act as a filter so it's not just blow through? It's pricer, but I also saw a filtered Jegs separator on there too as
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#1 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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Are the slotted pipes intended to act as a filter so it's not just blow through?
It's pricer, but I also saw a filtered Jegs separator on there too as another option. Nice DIY -- thanks!
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1) create turbulence inside the tube to cause the oil droplets to come in contact with the tube wall and each other and coalesce. 2) bleed off some of the slower moving air along the pipe wall to reduce the velocity in the tube. Edit: If the velocity inside the tube is low (say, inches/minute), then the slots won't do much but look pretty. But I may be way off base.
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#3 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
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Quote:
The idea was to break up flow entirely so that there's no clear path for oil to enter and then exit the can. Hence the perforations, unequal lengths, etc. If these cans were made such that you could unscrew an entire end cap, I would have just filled the interior with large strand stainless steel wool type stuff, as it is, it has only small openings for the fittings and the drain, so it wasn't practical to try and fill the interior with any baffling material. |
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#4 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
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When you complete the DIY, you can hear the air passing through the cans, it's obvious that the perforations are doing their job to break up the flow and cause turbulence. I haven't emptied mine in a while, I should open them up and see what's in there. (Only driven ~400 miles if that, but most of it balls to the wall or dyno time haha.) |
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