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Spec'd out a 25 Row Setrab cooler and pretty much everything else the same. Have to buy the bracket separately. Increases the price a lot though. $500 shipped. here's the
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#1 (permalink) |
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Spec'd out a 25 Row Setrab cooler and pretty much everything else the same. Have to buy the bracket separately. Increases the price a lot though. $500 shipped.
here's the bracket: Mocal Oil Coolers - Mocal 235 Matrix Oil Cooler Bracket thanks for the info Mod, that site is cheap compared to everyone else ![]()
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#2 (permalink) |
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2 questions...
1. Has anyone tried doing the install without removing the bumper? I was doing my oil change the other day and it seems like this is definitely possible. Just wondering if anyone else has tried. 2. Are you guys attaching the bracket to the 2 holes on the plastic cross member? How are you doing this? Just bolts, washers, and nuts?
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2) Yes, I just attached my bracket to those holes with some bolts, washers and nylock nuts that won't vibrate loose. |
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Hey Modshak, this is probably off topic and I apologize in advance for changing the topic, but how are you liking the purolator oil filter? I have been using K&N HP-1008 but I have heard great things about Purolator. I am kinda looking for your own input on the purolator vs others you've used in past . I think I want to try some other oil filters. Thanks.
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AK, I hope you don't mind me chiming in here. Purolator is a great oil filter. In my opinion, I would run it over the K&N in a heartbeat. Another brand I would try would be Wix. I currently am using a Wix filter on my Z.
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Thank you MS and liquid. I think I want to give this a try . Now, the purolator website says pl14612 for the z34, but I see you have 14610 (scrute also suggested this). Any reason why you are using 10 instead of 12 other than bigger capacity? Thx
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I thought I read that the bigger one filters better, but I'm trying to find beta ratios as we speak to tell you if that's true or not.
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#9 (permalink) |
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Mod would this kit work as well? It looks very similar to your set up but uses stainless braided lines.
Oil Cooler Kits - Oil Cooler Kit with Thermostat
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That kit would work for sure. If you're going to use stainless lines I would look into some tubing to wrap them with as anything they are touching will be slowly sawed on with every bump you hit. They can also be a little noisy. Otherwise, 10' of hose is plenty and the price is definitely right.
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Great thread. I will be doing some HPDE later this year so I definitely need to fit an oil cooler between now and then.
Right now I'm just trying to determine if there's any real reason to choose one of the Setrab kits at Stillen for 2x the cost of putting together one from RPW with a TruCool cooler. Additionally, with regard to warranty concerns... it seems like it shouldn't be too difficult to remove the cooler and most, if not all evidence of the install, should a problem ever arise under warranty... no?
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#13 (permalink) | |
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I've had nothing but good experience with the tru-cools. I've put them on 3 cars now and some of the installs are 6-7 years old with absolutely no issues. It's just a simple heat exchanger. Pay a little or pay a lot....the results end up being the same.. Remember too, the Stillen does not include a thermostat... |
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I am basically trying to determine if I should spend the $60 on a Tru-Cool or $220 on a Setrab cooler. I can't really find any hard evidence on which one is "better," and can really only make assumptions based on what little I know about both companies. I know Setrab is highly regarded in the industry, so their brand name carries a bit of weight. They are also produced on a much smaller scale than the DANA/Long built coolers. I think this would be the reason for much of the price discrepancy, but I'm not sure. I'm willing to pay more for better quality and performance, but my question is... is that really necessary? I apologize for this nonsense -- just trying to figure out which one I should buy.
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Realistically you'll just need to remove the sandwich plate, as it's the only direct modification you're making to how things work. Obviously you'll need to do something with the hoses, but maybe you could avoid removing the cooler and/or the bumper in the process.
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