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60K Mile Coolant Change

Originally Posted by Tractionless Get coolant test strips and see if it's still chemically balanced enough to stay in. No reason to change it if so. Thanks for the info.

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Old 02-13-2021, 06:52 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Get coolant test strips and see if it's still chemically balanced enough to stay in. No reason to change it if so.
Thanks for the info. The main reason was because when I got my last oil change, the dealer pointed out that the thermostat housing body was showing signs of leaking and that my upper and lower hoses were showing signs of age. I also noticed that my overflow tank was bone dry.

They wanted close to $1K to do that work (lol). So, I ordered a new seal and hoses for ~$25 and was going replace the coolant anyway. It's probably long overdue. Interesting, I didn't know that you could test the coolant. Might give it a shot our of curiosity.
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Old 02-14-2021, 04:52 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Based on my training and experience as a Technician for 8 years now, you can't go wrong with servicing fluids early according to manufacturer guidelines. Fluids are always getting better, but, I believe manufacturers put such high service intervals on fluids to save people money.

Once you drain your coolant, install a new o-ring on the drain plug and lubricate it with clean coolant before installing. Also install a new o-ring on the bleed plug and lubricate it with clean coolant. Just make sure the car is on level ground when filling the radiator. Fill the radiator slowly to help prevent catching air in the system. Get the bleed plug ready to install once coolant starts coming out. Keep filling the radiator and once the coolant is above the upper hose, install the radiator cap. Start your car and let the coolant get up to operating temperature. Feel the lower hose to make sure the thermostat opens. Finally check the coolant level in the reservoir and add to between the high and low lines. Take your car for a road test. Check your coolant level once more.

I serviced my coolant at 47k, 50k and 53k. So theoretically all of the old coolant should be out of the system per what the manual states the cooling system holds. I used about a gallon and a half of coolant each time. My car uses the blue coolant. Make sure the blue coolant can be used with the green coolant.

I also installed a new radiator cap and coolant reservoir cap at the 53k mark.

Also lubricate the upper and lower hose o-rings with clean coolant before I stalling them so the don't tear and end up with them leaking.

I know the blue coolant is a 50/50 mix so check to see if the green is as well. If you have to use the green coolant only add distilled water and NOT tap water if it does not already come in a 50/50 mix.
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Old 02-16-2021, 07:45 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by radensb View Post
Thanks for the info. The main reason was because when I got my last oil change, the dealer pointed out that the thermostat housing body was showing signs of leaking and that my upper and lower hoses were showing signs of age. I also noticed that my overflow tank was bone dry.

They wanted close to $1K to do that work (lol). So, I ordered a new seal and hoses for ~$25 and was going replace the coolant anyway. It's probably long overdue. Interesting, I didn't know that you could test the coolant. Might give it a shot our of curiosity.
Well then all of those other issues certainly change things.
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