DIY - Limited Slip Differential Install

B&W_Evader · 06-06-2016, 09:10 AM

Backlash Post Measurement, got lucky like most people, backlash only changed ~.0005" (from .004 to .0035, not going to mess with it)
Gear Marking Grease - looks good to me. Went forward - took picture, then backwards took picture (driving by hand on front shaft)
How to read pattern: ALLDATAdiy.com - 2001 Ford Escort ZX2 L4-2.0L DOHC VIN 3 - Checking Tooth Contact Pattern & Condition of Ring and Pinion
Installing the stub-shafts - My OS Giken came with the spring clips already inside the LSD. I needed to remove them from the stub shafts prior to install. Put the differential on it's side and center the clip in it's cavity prior to installing the stub shaft. I will allow it to snap in easily.
Install Cover - Make sure you clean it before putting it on. My cover had a bunch of aluminum shavings in it...nice.\
Permatex grey came with kit, clean surfaces and follow directions. (use alcohol, lacquer thinner (my favorite) or acetone for final wipe)
Install Rear stud (used blue Loctite) and fill with gear oil
Rear bushing gets installed from the front, lube it up first. Then press in hub. Push it in about 1/2" extra
Differential is a PITA, the front has to be raised fully into position for it to slide back far enough to get the bolts in. The jack alone won't do it due to the position it's pushing up at. I needed to block it up with wood to get one side high enough. Took me forever to figure out exactly what the problem was.

B&W_Evader · 06-06-2016, 09:11 AM

Bushing Fiasco
The energy bushings were sold to me on the premise that they have better heat resistance than the whitelines. However there is a problem with the geometry. Used as is, they would change the angle the differential sits in the vehicle. I ended up hack sawing and belt sanding them to size. I was to do it over, I would of left the OEM ones in. Also you need to reuse the center hub on the rear. Burn off the old rubber they say. Didn't like that part but I guess that's why this kit is cheaper.
Shaft Stub BS
Old stub w. threads, new stub w/o. WTF! Didn't notice this till I went to put the bolts in last night. Spent a bunch of time trying to pop it back out but it won't budge. Freaking banging on the stub sucks because you don't know what you're doing to the bearing inside. Going to buy bolts and nuts for it. What I wanted to do was chop the old one and put it back in. Problem with the bolts I could find is they are grade 10.9. The 76 ft lbs on the torque spec indicates these are grade 12.9 Can't find 12.9 anywhere. Moving forward with the 10.9s and going to drop the torque spec to 60ft-lbs. What BS! Been thinking about why...I'd bet it's not OEM and I'd bet it's made out of sub-standard material where the threads can't handle the proper torque. (Just guessing)

B&W_Evader · 06-06-2016, 01:51 PM

Was planning to have this done last night (Monday). Fiddled with the differential mounting all evening instead.
Tonight for sure!

06-06-2016, 01:51 PM	#3 (permalink)
B&W_Evader Track Member Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: CA Posts: 972 Drives: slower than before Rep Power: 387	Update Was planning to have this done last night (Monday). Fiddled with the differential mounting all evening instead. Tonight for sure! __________________ \|RIP\|6spd-sport\|OSG-LSD\|XP8\|RBF600\|Eibach Sways\|RE-71R\|FI-34Row\|Gen3-CAI\|Yaw P.S.\| Last edited by B&W_Evader; 06-13-2016 at 09:23 AM.

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