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In my experience I did camber arms and traction arms and made my own lockout it. The 10.8 bolts are at advanced auto for like $1.50 each and I got
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#26 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 5,051
Drives: 2013 Silver 370z
Rep Power: 3391 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
In my experience I did camber arms and traction arms and made my own lockout it. The 10.8 bolts are at advanced auto for like $1.50 each and I got a 1/4x2x12" bar stock of 6061 aluminium for $0.75. I just measured the space on the subframe and cut the aluminium to 1.33" squares. After everything was installed on Swift spec-Rs I could NOT achieve the numbers I wanted! My camber was fine but toe was horrible. When you adjust one it greatly effects the other. Also traction arms didn't do much but make my wheel base longer or shorter on one side or the other so I just reset them to identical length and measured wheel hub to wheel hub.
So what I did was weld all aluminium center holes closed and re drilled the squares off center. At the alignment shop we played around with the squares by rotating them 90* then playing with camber again. I got pretty damn close to what I wanted but it still wasn't perfect! I ended up buying SPL rear spring buckets and after I sold the Swifts and went true coils I sold the spring buckets and got toe links. I'm afraid for the perfect ride you need either SPL spring buckets or SPL toe links with lockout kits.
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